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Heat Pumps - post here.

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Recently moved to night rate electricity so set the hp to only run during the off peak hours.

    You shouldn't really set it to run exclusively on off-peak. You should boost it at night and then set it back a degree or two by day but not turn it off entirely by day.


    Trouble is running out of hot water by evening time. Before the heating came on, the hp would only run about once per day for hot water.

    Any hints to increase hot water production or do I need to run the hp for longer?

    Depends on the HP. Presumably there is a setting where you can set the water temp but ultimately it will have to run longer by either heating the water to a higher temp or boosting it when it goes low.


    Heating has started in the last week also so guess that is what is using the water. Ufh runs at about 30deg.

    The hot water and the UFH are separate systems. Your UFH is, as you said, at a much lower temp but it isn't pulling water out of your hot water tank. You simply need to run the HP for longer if you are running out of hot water but you should be able to do that just for the hot water.



  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭ConorC1


    I like the sound of this. Do you know what temperature your water has dropped to at say around 8 or 9pm ? I presume it will all depend on how much water you consume during the day? The reason I am asking is sometimes showers are needed at this time so I'd need the water to be hot enough without any manual intervention needed if possible



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,044 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    I have the same units but think they only show heat/cooling output in kWh and not the consumption.

    I could be wrong but don't recall ever seeing an input units meter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    I presume it will all depend on how much water you consume during the day?

    Correct.

    Do you know what temperature your water has dropped to at say around 8 or 9pm ?

    If no one has taken a shower in the morning the water will still be more or less at 50°C. The tank is well insulated so it doesn't drop much at all if there is no water being drawn off it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭ConorC1


    There will be 1 if not 2 showers in the morning. I'll give it a try and see how it goes. Will set hot water to go to 50C at 5:30am and then cut it off at 6 or 6:30am



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Why cut it off so early?

    Night rate electricity runs until 8am in the winter, let the HP heat the tank up again if someone takes an early morning shower.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,043 ✭✭✭Casati


    Overall what is the verdict- is it worth moving to night rate electricity and running an air to water heat pump at night mostly? I was reading that for my Diakin 14kw unit that it consumes 30% more electricity if its 7/ 8c colder at night, plus in order to get through the day I'd have to heat it to a higher temperature at night.

    i.e. My house in general loses 1c overnight, sometimes 2c. As such to keep the living space at a nice 20c in the evenings Im presuming I will need to heat it up to 21c or 22c by 8am. So using it at night means as well as the heat pump working harder as its colder out, it would need to stay on that bit longer to heat it over my desired evening temperature.

    Using the HP to heat water at night might work, but my unit is set to come on depending on water use - i.e. if I wash my hands the pump won't come on, but after anybody has a shower it kicks into life, which I was told was the most efficent use for it. Most showers here are evening but long before mid-night.

    In my case I have very limited other use for electricity at night - we could stick the washing machine on, but not the dishwasher, we dont use a dryer, and obviously the other big consumption items like the ovens are only on during the day. I dont have an EV either so Im thinking its a real gamble moving to night rate and switching the HP to run at night - am I right or is there a saving to be had?



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    I run a daiken 14kw heat pump. It’s 10 years old now so newer is probably better but we heat all our water on night rate to 55c. This does 2 showers, washing up, kids bath. We have the option of a day time boost that would take it back to 55c but we don’t need it. On the very rare occasion where we need more I just hit the water boost button on the unit.

    In terms of space heating again it’s mostly done at night and released from the thermal mass of the floor through the day keeping it as warm as required. Occasionally it kicks in again in the evening but this is rare and controlled by the stats.

    I’ve tried running the unit on demand or as we do on the night rate and very confident the night rate works out cheaper.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 811 ✭✭✭staples7


    I’ve been doing this for 3 years, works pretty well. May take a little modification as weeks get colder but the general jist Is - I have minimum thresholds set on the app by night eg if it gets below 20 degrees it will be running for at least 5 hours over night. And if by let’s say 5am it’s still on the colder side it stays heating for another few hours but by 8am it’s off for underfloor heating no matter what.

    And to be fair the house is always toasty. Never below 20’. And if there any bit of sun that’s 21/22’


    I have a Mitsubishi eco Dan and the app is a godsend. I insisted on it during installation and you have a full view of what’s going on. Run reports on daily, weekly, monthly consumption or anything you can think of really.


    now that day time rate is 40c+ I think it’s a must. I have an ev also so night rate for me makes total sense.

    average consumption for hot water and underfloor is 2700kwh. About 500 of that is water. A2 house 2800sqft



  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭plasterman


    Obviously I'm getting quotes at the moment but what do we think is a good price on replacing a 15 year old 10kW ground source heat pump like for like with a new one? Has anyone had it done recently?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,476 ✭✭✭✭Ush1


    This is what I'm thinking. I have an existing combi and for the heat pump to be cheaper to run it would have to have something like a minimum SCOP of 4, plus all the extra cost of new rads/underfloor, heat pump and a new hot water tank.

    Until the grid is using less gas to generate electricity(so either gas increases in price or elec reduces), it's not an attractive proposition.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,144 ✭✭✭Ballyv24


    I'm probably a few months behind you on a similar project. Can you keep us posted on any decision that you make around getting a new system and what you ended up getting. Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 196 ✭✭UID0


    The maths for a heat pump make sense if your existing boiler is at end of life. You don't generally have to replace all of your radiators, especially if you've improved the insulation of your house. If you have a relatively new boiler it makes more sense to improve your insulation (where possible) and do a certain amount of planning so that if you are doing up a room you can replace radiators (if necessary) so that when your boiler is in need of replacement a heat pump install is a simpler operation.

    The advantages of this are that you can run your gas boiler at a lower flow temperature (making it more efficient) and save money from the start. It's more awkward with a combi boiler as you have to plan where a hot water tank will go.

    A gas boiler is always going to run on 100% gas, and get less efficient as it gets older. A heat pump will use "less gas" when the grid is using less gas to generate electricity.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    My pump with UFH has a heat curve with fixed end point of -20.

    two settings are then used to adjust, up and down, and the higher curve end of around 28-32 degrees Celsius.

    i am not sure about these settings. House seems perfect in mild weather, in cooler weather now it seems a tad cool. Is it a case of increase a setting of +30C up or down?

    😎



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    Hi , what brand / model of pump is it .. the settings vary by pump, I have a Thermia ATAC pump and I can set the temperature of the water v outside temprature. I have the same issue where the weather is damp and cold you need more heat.. I can alter the curve by 2 degrees higher or lower at a specific outside temprature



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,151 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    Just by way of update and to inform for anyone who might have a similar issue in the future ... I got on to my installer who knew a specialist repair man. He repaired the cracked pipe by welding it onsite and then regassed and pressure checked the system. €540 but a good bit cheaper than a new unit. All working fine now this past 2 weeks.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,151 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    I dunno what others do but from mid may to mid sept I turn off the UFH part of my system completely. I only leave on the DHW part.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,994 ✭✭✭c.p.w.g.w




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,151 ✭✭✭jimmy G M




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭podge3


    New Ecodan user here - got my 11.2 Kw HP installed the other day.

    So far, so good with the system, some rad balancing needs to be done. Its been quite mild for the past few days but I'm happy with the energy consumption.

    The sage advice with a HP is not to turn it off - set the temp and leave it. I have set a daily temperature schedule to keep the house comfortable, 17 deg/18 deg during the day and 19 deg in the evening. I'm on a day/night tariff so I set downstairs to 19 deg all night until 8 am. This builds up heat in the house and its quite comfortable all day with the stats set to 17 deg. Obviously this might change in colder weather.

    Is it bad to turn down the stats so that the HP is effectively off all day? In the current weather, the house would be too hot at any higher setting.



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    It depends greatly on your electricity tariffs. I and others run our hp on night rate electricity pretty much exclusively. I have a day/night meter with a substantially cheaper night rate. While I may use a little more annually in terms of kW/year the cost of these units is less than running it on day units therefore saving money, also this tends to be greener electricity so better overall for the environment. I build up a bank of heat over night and the floor releases it throughout the day and evening time. You have to know your own house to know what set temp works for you or it can be too hot during the day.

    In The summer months say from April to mid end of October we have no space heating requirement just limited dhw.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,621 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Looking a bit of advice/help.

    Final big job is replacing the existing, 16 year old Warmflow, oil boiler. Will get this winter out of it so a job for the spring/early summer.

    Getting my head round figures for heat loss and radiator sizing so we can get a rough price for the job and that it is the right way to go. Wanting to get away from the oil and feel an air source heat pump is our best option.

    2006 Bungalow, raft foundation so UFH won't be an option, walls pumped with Walltite, have added extra attic insulation and the windows and doors have all just been upgraded to composite and triple glazed. House BER after solar pv and before windows and doors was a B2. Have spoken to our BER guy and forwarded the updated specs for doors and windows so waiting to hear where we are at now.

    Having spoken to him he feels confident of getting us to <2 for the heat pump grant and I will be scheduling a HLI and airtightness test. I have been replacing all the in-ceiling spotlights (draughty buggers) so feel we have a generally good airtightness.

    Working with the seai heat loss calculator I am getting a figure of 9kW. Does this figure seem correct and does this then equate to a heat pump in the 9kW range? I have attached a sample room to see if my inputs seem correct. U-Values are from either the seai or provided from specs I have been given

    In terms of radiator sizing I am working out that we have an output currently of 16.4Kw, mostly made up of k2 radiators with a few k1's. Again, would this figure seem correct and how does this figure then relate back to the heat loss calculation.

    If anyone can recommend a good heating engineer, installers in the midlands/south Roscommon area that would be great, pm's welcome.

    Thanks as always for the help/steer with this.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭podge3


    I should probably have mentioned I have radiators, not UFH. So far, running the heating all night downstairs seems to be working for me.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,482 ✭✭✭DC999


    What are you replacing the 'in-ceiling spotlights (draughty buggers)' with? We have them and so do folks and they poor in cold air in their house (under 2 flat roof extensions).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,621 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Between the kitchen, dining and living area we replaced 28 spotlights which voided into the attic space. It was right cold air coming down through these and a pig of a job filling the holes, sanding, filling, sanding.... I have 5 in the bathroom to finish and that will be the end of them.

    For the living and dining areas I made two oak long strip lights and then for the kitchen I used a surface mounted track with dimmable adjustable spots.




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,497 ✭✭✭BoardsMember


    Is there not something a bit backward in using a heat pump only at night with night rates? Feels a bit like the old days with storage heaters that only come on at night. I get that this is the cheapest way to run it, but is the thermal mass not cooling down by late afternoon when the temp is dropping?



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Hasn’t been my experience to date. Heated the bedrooms to 20c at 7 this morning. They’re sitting at 18.7 now.

    Living area to 24c at 7 it’s sitting at 21.5c but we had a lot of people moving through the house today so doors open heat out etc as we had people working.

    it’s a choice isn’t it really, people do what’s best for them. Once my solar system and batteries are rocking I’ll run my heat pump to boost in the afternoon if required as I’ll use load shifting to the battery

    in terms of the energy used night rate electricity is cheaper and lower in carbon due to wind at night. Can really only be beaten by making your own. Regardless the less you use day time, the better for the grid, the environment and your pocket. Lastly a large concrete slab is basically a storage heater I don’t regard it as backward

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,044 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    It really will vary by person and their setup. I would wake up if the bedroom ever got to 20c due to it being too warm so don't tend to heat it overnight.

    I would definitely never heat the house to anywhere near 24c. But what you are you doing might cost less overall to run if your on a reasonable night rate.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    I am only in my house one year and I have a A2W heat pump as well and I am still learning, and for last winter I didn't have much data but now I am logging my Heat Pump circuit, so I know when it comes on or not.

    You are right about the thermal mass though, for the last year I have just used the room stats to call for heat. Every room has a stat and to be honest what I am finding is the heating only really comes on at night anyway when the outside temp drops to really low so I don't really worry about setting for the night tariff it naturally does it anyway.

    My house will hold 19-20 deg in most rooms without any heating (A1 BER) But one day last week one of the rooms was at 19deg and one of my young fellas was doing his homework and my missus decided to set the temp to 21.5 degs for the poor little fella... and I didn't know, and the room was set for 21.5 deg for overnight. It was only the next day when I went into the room and realized Jeese this is hot and saw the stat set and set it back to 19.

    But what really surprised was that room held 21 degs for 2 days without any heat been called for. I could still feel the floor warm 2-3 days later...this has changed my whole though process on underfloor/heat pump heating. I tried this method for a couple of rooms over the next few days and it also worked. So there is merit in it.

    We are having really mild weather the last few weeks/months, so my house has not been calling for heat at all so I have not had repeated this, but we are looking as a bit of a cold spell over the next few days and I might try it again.

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,497 ✭✭✭BoardsMember


    Interesting, I'd say you have some people here jealous of the level of insulation/airtightness your house must have. Do you know how deep your slab is, or any other details related to the UFH?

    How efficient are heatpumps for DHW? Seems like the case for them is pretty clear in relation to heating to lower temps, but they use more electricity the harder they have to work. If you were converting to UFH/A2W heatpump from gas combi, and the gas boiler was still working efficiently, would it be worth considering running A2W heatpump for UFH and gas combi for hot water? Max efficiency for both demand for hot water?



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,290 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Here is my heat pump consumption since end of Jan this year when I started logging it. This is a moving 7-day average just to smooth out the ups and downs. Heating stopped in March so you can see about between 4-6kWh a day on average during the summer months. Just to let you also I have a 300 liter tank on a 3 bar pump and it NEVER runs out of hot water (despite my kids trying their best to run it dry) and heats on demand it not on a timer or anything. Just let it do its thing.


    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    That’s tidy job. You could find a market for those lights too

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭ConorC1


    How does this happen? 🤷🏻

    I've DHW set to 42 but yet it's 57




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,579 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    The last line:

    LS: enabled brings it to 60 or so periodically

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    As above legionella cycle will bring it to 60+ at whatever frequency your installer set....

    Mine happens at 2am once a fortnight I think.

    Is 42 very low or is my 50 very high? I've mine set to 50 with 10 offset so it heats back up to 50 when it gets to 40.

    Solar and an Eddi planned for next summer to boost it to 60-65 regularly with the sun as at that temp we'd have enough for hot showers each morning with no heat pump driven reheat. Only save a small but of night rate but every little helps.



  • Registered Users Posts: 125 ✭✭hero25


    @ECO_Mental very impressive figures! I have a new build, A2. In it a few years. My heating would run for approx 70 hrs in april and maybe a few in May also. Any tips on how you manage to have heating stop in March and no need for heating in April?

    Any others got similar experiences?



  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭ConorC1


    All depends on what matches your needs. 42 is more than hot enough for showering (for us anyway) and washing pots or pans and that



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 884 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    We have an A2 house, airtightness almost passive. Our heating requirements usually stop in mid March never needed any in April or May. temp set at 21c.

    Do you know what your blower door test was for airtightness?

    ☀️ 7.8kWp ⚡3.6kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Registered Users Posts: 125 ✭✭hero25


    @keno-daytrader Blower door test result? afraid not! what might that be called on a detailed BER report?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Airtightness in my house was 2 or a just a bit over, but I think its actually a bit better than that as one sliding door the seals wasn't correct and it had a small draft but that has been fixed and other door.

    Regarding heating stopping in March to be honest again, I think that was more to do with it been unseasonably warm in March this year. My house will hold 18-20 deg most of year without any heating. On cold windy nights it will call for it alright but as all the advice if you set your room temps too high you will call for heat. I don't have any room that is set above 20 deg and bedrooms are 19-18 deg. I know if I set a room to 21deg my heating will be on a lot. If I leave it at 19-20, it should not come on that much, apart from the very cold windy nights. If I feel a room is a bit chilly in an evening I will just up the temp to 21 deg and turn it back down to 20 when going to bed. But that will only be in the living room.

    I do have a room stats in every room and hallway but again I just leave it alone and if it needs heat it will call for it. The graph below is a graph of some temp sensors I have around the house and as you can see, they are between 18-20. One of the lads has his room set to 18deg so that's why is a bit lower than the rest.

    This is only my second winter in the house, so I am still learning how best to manage it but the number one rule as I can see is not to set the room temps to high...


    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Oh I forgot I did actually probably switch off the room stats in the rooms around April. What I found that a door left open because its a nice day or one of the kids would open a window it could drop the temps to call for heat even though its warm enough. Leaving windows open in April May when it could still be cool outside at nighttime will end up in calling for heat when there is no need.

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭simpsimp


    That looks a lot like our usage with HP. May I ask what are you using for logging? Our Daikin gives us a visual only, but we can't output numbers.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,497 ✭✭✭BoardsMember


    Not sure you get a blower test on a BER. As far as I know, the BER gives a score based on what is used. Whereas a blower test effectively tests how well measures were executed in relation to airtightness.

    In extreme cases of poorly executed work, you could have an A rated house that is expensive to heat because of poor air tightness - poorly installed windows, poorly executed draught proofing membranes etc....none of this shows on a BER.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Yeah, that was my problem also so I set up Home Assistant Home Assistant (home-assistant.io) on a Raspberry PI4 to log a number of key circuits in the house, Heat Pump, Zappi car charger, Utility room, Solar PV and the main ESB incomer and the kitchen Island with dishwater etc.

    I can see when things cut in or out and how much they are consuming, if you want to start managing these things you need to start measuring, As the saying goes. I would recommend Home Assistant it can do lots more than energy.

    .


    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 125 ✭✭hero25


    found below (its been a few years!!). at the time i was advised below 3 was good!

    Air Test Result Summary Recorded Permeability at 50 Pa, q50 [m3/h.m2] : 2.952 

    and no stat (including the main unit) is higher than 19degrees ;-(



  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭simpsimp


    Thanks! Looks interesting and also can see instructions for my Synology NAS via Docker which might suit my set up here.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    If you have a NAS and can use docker then you are more than halfway there....easypeasy after that. I use ShellyEMs to log the electrical circuits that I want Shelly EM they are great and HA picks them up straight away. You can use the Shelly3EM as well that is designed for three phase but you can use it for 3 single phase circuits instead.

    There is a bit of fiddling about in your main consumer unit to install them that you need to be careful (don't get electrocuted)

    I had done a bit of a write up on installing them in another forum see here Power / Electricity Apps? — boards.ie - Now Ye're Talkin'

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭simpsimp


    That's great, thanks for the tip, @ECO_Mental

    I have Home Assistant running now on the NAS and will look into the Shelly EM route.

    Looking at your notes now in the other forum...



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Well, the Shelly uses CT Clamps to do the actual logging but the Shelly needs power itself so that's why you just you need to wire and live and neutral into a trip to power it. It looks complicated but not really, but if you are not comfortable doing it then it might not be for you. I presume there are battery powered energy monitors, but I never looked into them.

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



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