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Ford Transit high top extended conversion in Portugal

  • 06-05-2022 10:03PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭


    Hey Folks

    I remember reading a great thread here from one of the lads that had fantastic detail in their conversion. I was a bit inspired by it to share my own progress.

    I moved to Portugal recently, following a break up, and I'm building myself a campervan as a bit of a passion project and to help me focus on myself more. I started my conversion last month. I work on it during the weekend, and maybe one night each week. Im not in a rush so i expect it will take about 1 - 1.5 years.

    I purchased a 2019 High top extended Ford transit. L4H3. Then got to work on it. Im just following vids on youtube, learning from the reddit community, and lots of trial and error. I have basic skills that i learned in secondary school wood working, but a light hobbyist interesting in electronics.

    Tearing out walls/floor, Treating rust, and painting

    This is what it looked like when i bought it. It was in good shape but just dirty and not suitable for my needs. All the walls and flooring needed to come out so i could check for rust or problems everywhere.

    IMG_20220401_155238_603.jpg

    This was the biggest patch of rust, just on the wheel encasings. It looks like the owner before hand (a delivery company) cut the wheel casings to have these flat stackable areas rather than the rounded wheel encasings that come with the van. The did a poor job welding and there were several small holes letting moisture in. The metal also was poorly protected.

    IMG_20220416_164059_046.jpg

    I started pulling the wooden walls off the van. It was very very tough work. After all the screws were removed, there was an inustrial strength glue used everywhere. It wouldn't come off without alot of force.

    IMG_20220403_200120_282.jpg IMG_20220410_173149_707.jpg

    I then had to buy a heat gun, and melt the glue and use a hot chisel to remove it and the wood. It took days. After the glue was mostly removed. I used a wire brush on my drill to grind away the residue that remained. Another few days but it was a bit of fun overall.

    IMG_20220416_160507_487.jpg IMG_20220416_184814_928.jpg

    It was about 25C inside the van because of the sun, so i frequently had to stop because of the heat guns extra heat :D here is a general shot of the worksite

    IMG_20220416_184733_910.jpg

    Next after removing the floor which only took 20 minutes. I began working on the hole filling in the bad welding job, the rust treatment and painting. I first wire brushed all the rust off the encasing. I then applied a rust solvent which finished the last remaining specs of rust. After it dried. I used an epoxy metal resin mix to fill the holes i could see. only 3 holes but one was about 2 inches long (5 mm thick).

    IMG_20220416_164059_046.jpg IMG_20220418_114047_078.jpg

    Here is the epoxy resin filled hole. This stuff about 1 day to dry. Only about 20 minutes to apply. It is rock solid after a day.

    IMG_20220423_192011_157.jpg

    I put some silicone around the edges and then painted it all with Hammerite white paint. I think its now much much better and i'm very glad i did this prep work. I have zero experience with rust or metal so it was all new to me.

    IMG_20220423_191846_074.jpg


    I then washed it three separate times. It was quite dirty and sticky dust. After washing I painted every single place I could see anything but white paint.

    IMG_20220425_154454_130.jpg


    That's it so far. Feel free to make any comments or criticisms. I'm happy for feedback anytime if it saves me making a mistake!

    Next I will be putting in an insulated flooring made of 60mm wood beams and 60mm XPS insulation. I think i choose too big of insulation for the floor. It will work of course, but 60mm is probably a bit silly. 40mm would be perfectly sufficient for the floor i think. As the van is a high top, im not stuck for head room. I'm only 5' 9. The wood is also heavier than i thought it would be.



«13

Comments

  • Posts: 15,801 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Nice work.

    Re: Insulation, you can never have too much, so don't worry about that. You'll appreciate it as much on the hot days as the cold days.

    Those wheel wells are an issue imho, but I'm not knowledgeable enough on the topic, but from what I do know, I'd say your fix may not work long term and it might need a lit of a welding job to fix it properly. Also, what does it look like on the underside in terms of rust and clearance? Is there a risk of the wheels hitting it once you load it up? If so you might need to beef up the suspension/shocks.

    Its very likely not an issue just those are the things I would be digging into if I was in your shoes so just wanted to mention them



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Appreciate the concern and the opinion. Its something that has been on my mind too. I was even thinking like you mention, of increasing the suspension on the rear. When I'm going over speed bumps, I hear something, but i actually don't know if its the encasing or not. I had a look under the van today and i found something loose and banging. So i think thats what was making the noise. Certainly as you mention, it may become an issue if there is a camper van build load in it! I will add it to the list of things to assure is safe and verified before adding much load to it.

    On the under side, I saw absolutely nothing that indicated a problem to me. I only have average joe level of knowledge on such matters. There was no rust or scraps on the exterior/underneath of the wheel casing that indicate to me the wheel has ever bumped into them. I will keep and eye on it as i said, and ill also look into improving the suspension which seems like a good idea anyways for what im planning. Thanks!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,512 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    The first thing I noticed were the wheel-wells. How did they chop them and still retain the clearance for the wheels? Does the van bottom-out on bumps or is this a common mod on this transit? How is the service-history on the vehicle, especially oil changes? What about km's on the odometer? Does it have a diesel particulate filter (DPF) because if it was a short-run van with little long distance then the filter and excess coking of the engine may be an issue.

    Also that was mostly surface-rust, usually nothing but unsightly. What you need to do is look under the wheel-well and see if they sealed the cuts with a good chassis waterproofer/wax. Over in Ireland that would be a major concern, but perhaps in PT it's not so big of a problem!

    Keep up the good work!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Hey Folks,

    Been working hard on the sub floor. I decided enough progress has been made that it might be time for an update. Part of the reason for choosing to work on the floor first is because I'm avoiding cutting into my van for windows and solar panels. I'm having trouble finding suitable roof racks for the panels, and the window part is just too scary for now. Its fine though, plenty of work to do. Over all I am on Day 17 of work. 10 days of that has been on the sub floor to date. A day is a full weekend day, or a full week day evening.

    So the subfloor is made of 60mm * 40mm support beams with 60mm insulation XPS boards. First I made some basic horizontal cuts. Partially to get over the fear of making my first cuts :D

    IMG_20220508_161453_344.jpg

    Next I focused on just one section of the van so i could get a learning experience of the complete process. I made many mistakes but the result turned out ok even in this first part. I must admit. It took 6 hours to get a RECTANGLE working. There were so many unknowns.

    1: The van floor is not level. 2: The wood is not perfectly straight. 3: I forgot to buy wood glue. 4: My screws were too short. 5: I bought a device for making screw holes at an angle, and i had no idea how to use it.

    IMG_20220508_201340_054.jpg


    I bought a MITRE saw which has been absolutely amazing. Allowed me to cut angles and precision straights really well. I'm far more likely to do things again when they require so little effort as this saw.

    image.png


    It took many many days to do the other sections. I expected the van to be a bit more symmetrically even. My cuts had errors, and screwing the beams together sometimes moved things, or twisted things, which threw off the next piece. I took the approach of just doing one single piece of wood at a time, Constantly compensating as i went along. It was long, but every piece that worked motivated me more.

    IMG_20220514_122443_775.jpg


    I bought a hot foam board cutter for the boards. Don't bother. They are so ridiculous slow compared to a Stanley knife that its not worth it at all. It also has the limitation of only being able to cut a certain width but my knife i can cut anywhere.

    When i got the wood cut, i screwed it together in a way that allowed me to remove it in 3 manageable parts. I wanted to do this because i wanted to treat the wood before fully screwing it together as one single unit. I took each of the 3 pieces out. One is shown below. I painted each section with a termite/insect repellant, a fungicide and a water repellant (all one chemical). I decided to make some insulation blocks to size while it was outside too.

    IMG_20220515_193310_868.jpg


    I put it all back into the van, still in 3 separate sections, and filled more insulation in. Its a tedious job getting the fit just right, and you can see i made some mistakes. That hole in the insulation 2 levels from front is the biggest. Ill just push some insulation bits into it to fill it i think.


    IMG_20220515_195523_854.jpg


    IMG_20220519_201643_631.jpg

    Then i got to this beautiful mile stone. All in, still in 3 sections. Just needs to be glued down to the van floor and 3 sections screwed together. It will be glued down with a MARINE adhesive which provides a lot of bonding but also flexibility. I read this is super important because hard non flexible adhesive eventually vibrates apart in a van. Marine adhesive offers enough flex to survive travelling and is moisture safe.

    IMG_20220519_203259_247.jpg


    So at this point.. I felt pretty good. It was a long 10 days of work for me. I learned alot about wood work and how crazy precise it needs to be and never is! Then .. unfortunately.. I got a bright idea.. lol...so i took the whole lot of the work back out. My bright idea was from watching more videos from a british youtuber who seems to really know his stuff. I decided to fill the space between the van metal ribs with the underflooring that you use under laminate flooring. The reasons for this is debatable. The space between the ribs has air with moisture. On cold van days, this air makes a lot of contact with the van metal floor and will create condensation. Removing this air by filling the rib space with more insulation means less potential moist air, and also a lot less air to metal contact points. The roll of underflooring is quite cheap so other than labor, it seemed like worth a try. The alternative thinking is that have some air flow is good for drying out condensation since you cant stop all of it.

    So i took out all my floor and placed two layers of this stuff in each cavity. I glued it to the van floor. It took 5 hours for about 70% of the van.. then i ran out of glue again :D

    IMG_20220519_204028_442.jpg IMG_20220520_201503_861.jpg

    It was 28C in that van during working time. A tough day, but i loved the pride i felt. While the floor was out of the van. I also read more about protecting the wood, and i found another protector that would protect the wood more from deterioration rather than fungus/bugs. I've taken the time today to paint all the sections with this second treatment.

    IMG_20220521_203333_117.jpg


    That is where i am currently at. About 90% complete on the subfloor i think. Tomorrow ill finish the insulation in the cavities, screw it together, and glue it down i think.. i might hold off on gluing it until i complete the bathroom incase i need to more access to the van floor for plumbing reasons.

    Any feedback is appreciated, criticism or agreement. Happy to learn and grateful to those who gave good feedback to me on the wheel encasings, and insulation.

    Questions i have too!

    1: Is the second layer of insulation a good idea or bad idea?

    2: does wood really need to be treated like this? insects and then environmental?

    3: Anyone know any transit L4H3 roof racks that don't cost 2k?

    4: There was this cool tool that i used for making holes in the wood at an angle. I was thinking of uploading a video of using it, but i didn't know if videos were a good idea or not, as they can be quite time consuming compared to pics.

    5: I have some time lapse videos too, but should i just stick to pictures on this thread?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    On the back of your comment. Ive decided to get a mechanic to check this out properly for me. So far, ive noticed no issue when going over bumps at a reasonable normal speed. There are lots of speed bumps in Portugal and i go over about 30 a day. So i put some paint on the top under the wheel casing, drove down my street which has 5 bumps, and there was no paint on my wheel. Its a lame test, but i think it means my wheels never hit the top as the paint was unmarked. At a higher load, or at a faster speed.. maybe it will. I will have a mechanic check it out at some point. There are other little things i would like checked too.

    Under the encasing, there is a black rubber that looks sprayed on which i guess is the water proofer. Its like a rubbery paint. There were 2 holes in it which i have since fixed.

    Service history on the van was complete. Every year had it, though with little detail (its only a 3 year old van). It had 72k on the odometer and was first registered in 2019 august.

    I dont know about the DPF but i will ask the mechanic about this too. Its been tough getting a mechanic that speaks English to a level i can work with on something. I have my friends referring me atm to the ones they use. There is basic English everywhere here, but quite a difficult resistance to it at the same time. Im not where near able to speak Portuguese enough to talk about van stuff.

    Thanks for the critical questions. They helped me see the importance of the encasings issues.



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  • Posts: 15,801 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Questions i have too!

    1: Is the second layer of insulation a good idea or bad idea?

    As I've said, there's rarely an issue with too much insulation. Only time it is, is when air circulation is poor > moisture builds up > mold.

    3: Anyone know any transit L4H3 roof racks that don't cost 2k?

    I'm planning to use extruded aluminium for my build (if it ever happens) and have seen it used for exactly this purpose. There's a good few videos on using it for this.

    Outside of that, welding something custom might be the only option if there's nothing stock you can use

    4: There was this cool tool that i used for making holes in the wood at an angle. I was thinking of uploading a video of using it, but i didn't know if videos were a good idea or not, as they can be quite time consuming compared to pics.

    I'm guessing you are talking about a pocket hole jig?

    5: I have some time lapse videos too, but should i just stick to pictures on this thread

    Time lapse vids are a great way to show the transformation, just watch the length. I've seen silly ones that are near 1 hour. If you are doing TL's step by step, then 1-2 mins max would be ideal I think. Can then roll them all together to do a full TL of the whole thing.

    Loving the progress updates, nice work



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Today I made some good progress and finally completed the subfloor. I permanently installed it tonight after completing the underlay insulation.

    The marine glue is super strong. That floor is not going to move. It's a great product. In 2 minutes I could hardly move it yet the glue was still semi plyable.


    IMG_20220522_125059_399.jpg IMG_20220522_211356_153.jpg


    I'll put the xps insulation in tomorrow when there is more light. Very pleased with how it looks at the moment.

    Next is the actual floor..which is just plywood and then the bathroom.

    Here is a short time lapse of the cleaning, de-rusting n subfloor.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,387 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    Cool,

    Were you not tempted to use a bigger vehicle , like a mini bus



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Not in the slightest. I've never driven anything bigger than an Opel Corsa! This van fits under my regular class B license, and is fairly discreet looking. Discretion seems to be an advantage given that it's never going to be super easy finding locations to park.

    Finding mechanics upon my travels for a Ford transit will be super easy when there is problems.

    It's an interesting idea but perhaps a bit too far out of my comfort zone still!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,387 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    image.png image.png image.png


    These mini buses are pretty cool, as they have single wheel at rear. and designed to sit very low



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,387 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    Optare Alero was the name of the Minibus

    For reference



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    A small update. I didn't work much on it recently because im having A LOT of trouble ordering supplies from amazon.de with my new bank account. Waiting over a week for it to be resolved.

    Last week i put the floor in on top of the sub floor. It was really easy compared to the subfloor. Only took 2 days and that includes protecting all the wood with insect/wood treatments.

    I made stencils out of cardboard and traced them on to 15mm plywood. The plywood is quite heavy but feels super sturdy. Im pleased with it.

    I remembered so much from my wood working classes as a child that i was super proud of my teacher.

    IMG_20220525_210111_167.jpg


    After fitting it all. It all had to come back out for treatment of the wood for insects/moisture protection etc.

    IMG_20220526_115636_252.jpg


    Then after treating it all. I put the floor back in and spent 2 hours using duct table to map all the support beams so i know where i can screw! I've decided not to glue the floor down as i could easily see me needing to get underneath it again for some situations while building.

    IMG_20220528_093256_668.jpg IMG_20220528_093303_295.jpg

    I then got some sound deadening material for the wheel encasings. its like really heavy sticky paper that absorbs a lot of vibration so the wheel encasings and large flat surfaces are perfect places for it. First i cut it into the right shapes and then i stuck it on. I spent about an hour rolling it on to each encasing using a special roller i bought for it. Its just a hard plastic roller. The sound difference is very noticeable.

    20220604_103629.jpg 20220604_132800.jpg

    Portugal has many regulations so very soon i need to employ an engineer to make all this super legal. Its a lengthy process with comprehensive plans etc in Portuguese. Roughly costs about 1k extra in fees but its not ok to get on the wrong side of authorities here if they are in a bad mood at English speaking van dwellers. Best to have as many boxes as possible ticked.

    I bought a new camera phone this week so ill have much clearer pictures from now on. It was really difficult using my previous phone due to low disk space!

    I made a big decision this week to stop using wood for many things. Its too heavy and my friend over here has had terrible problems going over the max weight limit of 3500kg. I have decided to use aluminum 3030 to build any future supports. I was a bit afraid to use it on the floor but after looking into it more, it was a really safe option all along. The connectors and accessories available for it are pretty amazing. I think ill end up with a higher quality finish that weighs less and is strong.

    Here is a link to the one i like. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B075NB5HKQ

    If anyone has any experience with it. Let me know.



  • Posts: 15,801 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Extruded aluminium (aka 80/20) is what I am planning on using for my build and I read up/ watched loads a year ago when I decided on it.

    I'm guessing you have too and I choose it for the same reason, weight and strength. The downside is cost.

    You are likely aware of the following but I'll mention it anyway just incase. What I would recommend (based on what I learned) you try doing is the following

    1. Research exactly what size and form you will need / want. You can go lighter in some areas but need additional strength in other areas. Cost is a factor with this stuff so it's good to use the lighter stuff where possible to save but still have the necessary strength. Also do research on the types of connectors / fixings etc as they can get very pricey very many. Get 1 small pack of the fixings that can be slotted into a length with closed ends, you will need these because you will forget to add something when assembling. You can also get different faces on 1 or 2 sides so if looking at the t-slot doesn't appeal you can have different astethic should you wish.

    2. There are 3d modelling software packages out there, sketch up being a good one. If you have the patience to learn and model your build, when it comes to the actual building you'll make very few errors. It will also save you a lot as you'll be able to work out to the cm exactly how much you need.

    3. Don't tighten the fixings until you are 1,000,000% sure but once you are ready, double and triple check that you have tightened everything. The great thing with extruded aluminium is the ability to take it all apart / put it back like lego. You lose this option once you tighten so yeah be VERY sure.

    4. Look around locally for a supplier. You may find a firm that will deliver you everything already cut to the lengths you need (this is where the 3d software comes in). I've been looking at Irish suppliers for this.

    Look up Humble Road on YouTube. Also "Seven O Savage" there too who used both the 8020 and sketchup options. In fact just have a root around YouTube for 8020 van builds.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Humble roads is exactly where i first came across the idea. I hesitated alot on the floor due to potential for thermal bridging. It felt odd to insulate so much but then to use a crazy great conductor.. In hindsight, i think i was overthinking it. I also think the floor is the least likely place for it to be a problem since most heat will come from the sides/top. Heat is what I'm aiming to reduce in my climate.

    The 3030 is a relatively strong piece of extrusion. 2020 looked a bit too thin, and 4040 looked a bit too big. As for mixing, in theory i agree with you.. but if i use different extrusion grades, many connectors need to be purchased differently. The link i gave above has 'good' deals on extrusion in larger sizes (12 * 2 meters). Large boxes of connectors are.. affordable (though still some high expense).

    I felt like wood was pretty pricey. Definitely cheaper than extrusion but as you said, i also love the flexibility with the extrusion in terms of lego play. I will use for shower room structure/supports for work tops/cabinets/Bed frame/storage. This should help remove alot of the wood weight, and ill use a thin plywood for backings/sides. Another thing i will use the extrusion for is the roof rack for the solar panels. The roof racks pre built are CRAZY CRAZY money. Absolutely silliness. 2-3k for something that i think i could build for 300.

    Appreciate the comments/opinions. Be sure to drop me a line when you start your own build so i can follow!



  • Posts: 15,801 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    sounds like we'll have very similar builds so I'm watching your with great interest



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 126 ✭✭stephen1968


    As mentioned by another person...I used on wall ceiling floor 10mm dido insulation not cheap then 25mm insulation board again everywhere...then recyclable loft insulation again everywhere...then 5mm vapor barrier everywhere...worth the time ...plus just did cvrt had no issue regarding changing to camper as believe cause left bulkhead and no window's only cut small roof light in ceiling



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Update: Installing the Fan on the top of the van

    Hey folks. This week supplies arrived and i installed the ventilation fan on top of the van. It was super scary! but it went really really well.

    my van is a ford transit EXT. I decided to locate the fan on the rear right hand side. The reasons for this were:

    • Maximum air movement above my bed area which in hot climates is my preference.
    • I havent fully planned the solar panel array sizes/roof rack so i wanted to maximize the amount of play area i have for power.
    • Its on the right side rather than the middle because next year i think it likely i install a small AC unit on the left side of the rear. I left enough room for that (40*40 hole required)

    I followed all the usual steps for doing the work that you find on any van build youtube video. I made some modifications that i think are a good idea.

    First i measured the square hole 40*40cm for my van and attached tape. I purposefully made it slightly smaller. 39.9cm knowing i would have to file it later.

    It was super scary cutting the hole. I just made 4 pilot drill holes in each corner, and used a metal cutting blade in my jigsaw. It cut through it like butter. Almost zero resistance.


    20220618_162307.jpg


    20220618_165117.jpg

    I hoped by making the hole 39.9mm i would be able to have the tightest of fits. This turned out to be a bad idea and i wasted 90 minutes filing the 0.1mm back off. It just took time and energy that was unnecessary. The MOMENT i made the cut, dark clouds appeared over head so i was quite nervous the whole day about rain!

    Eventually after a lot of filing, I put the plastic frame in and drilled the 16 holes into the sheet metal. The holes to the sides went through the sheet metal easy. The holes to the front and back, and corners were more difficult because they hit off reinforced metal beams in the van. I initially wanted to avoid this but it was impossible in the dimensions available. It turned out to be fantastic fortune in the end

    20220618_174827.jpg


    I tend layer several strips of butyl tape over the edges where the frame would sit. I poked holes through it using a drill bit to clear the holes i made for the screws.

    20220618_181445.jpg

    I put the frame in, and this is where i changed my mind about something important. The examples i saw used screws through the sheet metal and a wooden frame on the inside for the screw to bite into. It seemed like a good idea but the location meant my wooden frame i built would not fit. On the inside there is metal reinforced beams that make it impossible to get a flush finish with a piece of wood. So i decided to use bolt -> washer -> frame -> butyl tape -> van -> washer -> nut.

    20220618_183843.jpg


    On the top and bottom of the hole shown below. You can see the holes went through the reinforced beams, and with a washer/nut, this gave EXCELLENT compression strength. I made it as tight as I felt comfortable without causing any distortion to the frame or sheet metal. The butyl tape got squeezed out a lovely amount and into all the edges. So the beams turned out to be very very fortunate.

    20220618_191354.jpg


    I installed the fan in the frame and i cut away all the excess butyl tape.

    20220618_192752.jpg

    I then added a marine purpose sealant/adhesive to give a better flush seal to the edges.

    20220618_200014.jpg 20220618_200537.jpg


    During the night time, it rained heavily and not a single drop of water came in the van, so I'm greatly pleased with that.

    Any feedback or questions, feel free! Anything about the bolts/nuts instead of screws is much welcomed as i was flying by my own ideas there!

    Thanks

    Post edited by manonboard on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭Fastpud


    Thanks for posting and keep them coming. Love getting inspiration for a future van build



  • Posts: 15,801 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    nice work with the fan



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,271 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Stick about half a ton of weight in the back of the van and try the speed bump test again. By the time yo've finished your build, filled with diesel loaded up all yet stuff for a trip you'll easily have that extra weight in the van.


    I would also remove the bulkhead from the van. It makes it feel bigger in the back, means you don't need to go outside to get back in to move it, and if you get swivel seats (mine came from a renault espace) then you have two extra seats in the van.

    I hope you're small, that floor takes a good bit of floor height away from the internal space, maybe it won't bother you but it was a consideration for my build.


    You can check out my build here - It's finished now, but it was completed around the time of the migration of boards so I didn't update too much at the end.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Hey folks.

    Small important update n a request for feedback/ideas.

    I prototyped a roof rack n wanted to share it because it ended up with a really good result. Before I build the rest of it. I wanted to hear feedback or concerns.


    Rack is made of 3030 aliminium extrusion. Bracket to van is a steel bracket which feels super strong. I think I couldn't bend it if I tried with any home tools.

    The bracket is using a 20mm bolt to factory provided threaded hole. No washer between bolt n bracket.

    Connectors from bracket to aliminium extrusion are 2 "metal" connectors designed for connecting to extrusion. Probably 6mm bolts.

    Here is a picture

    20220626_195026.jpg


    My questions/requests.

    Anybody see anything problematic I don't?

    The van is not straight and has a curved surface. The bracket area is flat but tilted by about 5 degrees. In order to make my bracket horizontal I put a sheet of 1mm hardish but flexible plastic sheet at the back of the bracket so one side is raised by 1mm. It tilts the bracket quite well. I won't know if it's enough until I do the other side n put a bar across to see if it fits level. Any thoughts on managing that angle? Surprised the bracket location is not horizontal to its sister mounting holds.

    Do I need a washer between a bolt n steel bracket? The bolt definitely can't cut into such hard steel.

    The almininum extrusion connectors. Use 6mm bolts. I'm use 2 connectors. It's shiny metal n I don't know the load bearing strength of them. They're about 15mm in length. 6mm threaded woth. Any concerns?

    Sealing around the bracket n plastic. I'm thinking just more marine sealant I used on the fan area.

    Is there any benefit to use two brackets instead of one? Putting two together to form a C channel shape? I think I could cut a second to fit on top the first so it would have 4 extrusion connectors per mounting point. All still load bearing on the same m8 bolt I to the van?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Ah I realised I can put these corner brackets on the bracket to extrusion. I can easily attach 2 underneath that will keep it extra supported.

    It would mean 4 different connectors would need to fail with 2 completely perpendicular load directions. Sounds very safe to me

    41zk27k9S+L._AC_SY580_.jpg




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Update on roof rack. I upgraded a few pieces and finished a prototype of it.

    Pretty pleased with it but I'd love any concerns you have since it would be disastrous to blow off during driving.

    I added a pair of 90 degree brackets to each beam connection point.

    So now the bar is connected to each steel hinge with 4 extrusion connectors. The connectors have 2 m6 bolts on the top n 2 m8 bolts on bottom.

    The cross bar on top is just a demo proving I solved the angle issue because the roof is curved. I added 2 washers to the bottom of each bracket to offset tilt of the van. This is on the small bracket connected to the bar. The van bracket is still completely flush with van. Picture 3 shows the angled bar.

    20220630_211837.jpg 20220630_211844.jpg 20220630_211905.jpg 20220630_211910.jpg 20220630_211914.jpg


    I have options to put the cross beam supports on top like the last picture or inset them to be the same level as the length ways bars.

    I think I'll buy my solar panels next and see what works best when I have them in the rack.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Big update since the last one.

    First, the Roof rack. After some consultation with the reddit community, My roof rack turned out to have some potential issues with lateral/side loading. If there was a very large storm, the brackets i used could potentially bend. It was a bit unlikely but better safe than sorry.

    So I redesigned my roof rack to be more lateral safe. I purchased larger brackets made of thicker steel, that also came with the gusset fold you can see. I had no idea gussets were a thing, but they are designed exactly to stop this type of bending.

    20220712_190416.jpg

    I then attached a secondary bracket to the back of this to support the load from the vertical plane. Each bar is now bound to bracket support through 4 different bolts through 2 planes. It might be a bit overkill but im happy for that when im on a motorway carrying a solar panel kite. I added some washers that allowed me to tilt the bracket a few degrees to compensate partially for the tilt of the roof curvature. I cant believe ford didnt just make the mountain points parallel to the ground.

    20220712_190426.jpg


    I replicated this on the 8 mounting points and added in 2 horizontal bars at same level to help distribute the load across the sides. Its been 2 weeks up there and absolutely rock solid.

    I still have to add locking washers and sealant to the mountain points, but I wont do that until I get the solar panels incase I need to move anything. It rains so little here i have not even had to consider it.

    20220712_201618.jpg

    Overall I'm super pleased with the roof rack. I feel its as sturdy as i could ever wish for, and i'm quite pleased with the cost of it. About 250 euros worth of equipment (the 3 rebuilds of it). The store bought racks were close to 2k and offered so little customizability. Absolutely crazy money.

    ---------------------

    Next up. The interior framing and installed a bed! :D

    I played around learning how to install a Riv Nut which is absolutely the best device I've ever used in the build. It is a nut/insert that fits inside a hole and allows you to screw in a bolt. It has given me huge confidence in how securely I can bind things to the van structure. Far more holding than glue and screws, with the ability to dismantle things easily.

    20220717_205400.jpg 20220717_204538.jpg

    I began framing the bed area. Its a square metal frame sitting on those horizontal supports. I believe this is the best way to distribute any weight.. In hindsight, its overkill. Its so structurally sound that it was never going to be a problem. I'm happy for that problem!

    I decided to use aluminum profile (3030) for all my framing as its proved to be very very easy to use, far faster to assemble and disassemble, extremely forgiving of mistakes and prototyping. The strength and weight of it far exceeds wood qualities. I have rebuilt nearly all my bed framing 3 times now. The bolts and connectors make that infinitely doable.

    20220721_155021.jpg 20220721_155010.jpg 20220721_163338.jpg 20220723_172443.jpg

    I'm very pleased with the results of this too. It took a lot of trial and error, but slowly made its way towards the quality I wanted. The best thing about the aluminum is that I can afford to make very large design mistakes and simply, undo everything and fix it. I made some bad cuts but its less waste than wood because even small parts are super strong and useful.

    Next i began to build the bed bottom. My hole saw broke half way through so i need to redo that part of the wood before i can treat it for bugs/wood protection. Getting the corners correct was a huge amount of time because NOTHING in a van is straight, even the straight walls. The van is 1.5cm wider at the back than the middle on the same wall, so a straight piece of plywood needs to be cut at an angle just to press flush against the van wall 'straight line'

    20220724_173059.jpg 20220724_180242.jpg


    20220724_181510.jpg


    Then the scariest part was installing the mattress. There was 26cm of area at the rear door wasted if the mattress was not cut to fill that odd shaped area. Far too much to waste. No other idea seemed good enough. I cut the mattress. It was simple enough. Unzip it, remove the fire protection cover netting (temporarily), and then cut it using a sharp Stanley knife. I used the wooden boards as the template (AFTER I MADE A CARDBOARD CUT OUT!! lol)

    20220724_190600.jpg 20220724_190608.jpg

    It fit! :D

    20220724_193732.jpg

    Now i have a bed :D

    20220724_193755.jpg 20220724_193819.jpg

    Next week I am going camping in it for the first time. I have a cooler and fan that needs power to be comfortable. It's a huge heatwave here in Portugal. I installed a battery also in a temporary solution so i could connect the ventilation and food cooler.

    20220723_191741.jpg


    I will do temporary wiring to allow me to use it. The correct cables and Victron Orion 48V to 12V DC/DC convertor will arrive early this week. I THINK its a matter of just running wiring from Orion converter to both 12v fan & cooler. The battery should have enough factory charge to last me a weekend easily. I can't charge it until my solar panels arrive :D It took 6 months to get one of these batteries. There seems to be a massive delay.

    Anyways. That's all my progress so far. Its been really tough working in 35C heat. Just constantly using sunscreen and soaking my t-shirts/head wraps in cold water. I'm very proud of the work so far.

    Any suggestions or feedback welcome!



  • Posts: 15,801 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Not much to say except that I'm thrilled to see the EA starting to come into it.

    That roof rack looks solid too



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    I’m not sure if this will be of any help 

    I recently converted a crafter van 

    The 12v and 220 v I ran in two zones 

    Two each side of the van 

    I bought 1’ 100 meter cable roll and used every bit of it

    Each side I have there’s at least two cables runs back and front that are spare 

    After I finished all the wiring 

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073TZ5BBG/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item

    Bought these crimper I have made hundreds of joints with other types of crimpers 

    This was the best ever and used it a lot once made to join two wires together 

    You can also to splice two three four wires together and makes a joint that will not come apart 

    Heat shrink over and you can have confidence in the joint 

    Two 8 gang panel reset switch type one each side  



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    I’m not sure if this will be of any help 

    I recently converted a crafter van 

    The 12v and 220 v I ran in two zones 

    Two each side of the van 

    I bought 1’ 100 meter cable roll and used every bit of it

    Each side I have there’s at least two cables runs back and front that are spare 

    After I finished all the wiring 

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073TZ5BBG/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item

    Bought these crimper I have made hundreds of joints with other types of crimpers 

    This was the best ever and used it a lot once made to join two wires together 

    You can also to splice two three four wires together and makes a joint that will not come apart 

    Heat shrink over and you can have confidence in the joint 

    Two 8 gang panel reset switch type one each side  



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Hey Hey! Long time no update. I took a huge break from the van for many personal reasons.

    Sickness, relationship stuff, travel, mood, weather. I've been back working on it and have some progress worth showing.


    Solar power install:

    I installed 4 solar panels on top of the van. 175W panels at 48v each. I have the wired in parallel. Open circuit voltage is about 55-61V on each panel so it meets my requirements. I first attached them each to two aluminum bars. This was pretty easy. I simply drilled holes in the side frames of each panel. Put some connectors on to my aluminum protrusion, and just screwed in from the back.

    20220801_181132.jpg


    20220804_194020.jpg 20220809_125328.jpg 20220810_210338.jpg

    As you can see, it means two bars double up beside each other between panels. For the 2nd last, and last panel, i placed the two panels sharing the same middle bar. This is purely to save 2cm. Its important to me to save room on the roof so that i may add a 5th panel. 6 cm is a useful amount of room to me. It gives me enough to add a 5th panel should i need to.

    Solar panel hell

    Now.. all of this took a couple of weeks..but there was HUGE problems awaiting.

    I got VERY little output into my battery. It took many many weeks of debugging before i came to the conclusion that my installation was correct. The only logical theory was that 3 out of 4 panels were broken. It seemed insane. Of course i had to have made a mistake. Its my first panel install. After many weeks of debugging. I was certain i made no mistakes. Panel 1 worked perfectly. Panels 2, 3, 4 were about 10% of the output.

    After working with the sales rep, we shipped the panels back to Ireland with the agreement of no charge. It helped i had weeks of debugging data and various experiments with pictures. Couple weeks later, the manufactuer confirmed panels 2,3,4 were indeed malfunctioning. It took 15 more weeks to get replacement panels delivered because the next batch of these panels was not in stock. They are not super common. Most people get 12v and put them in series, I wanted 48V panels so i could put them in parallel to allow me to use my 100v MPPT controller from victron.

    Only the other day did the new panels arrive. I tested them and they seem perfect but i have to do all my work again to put them on the roof. I am not in a rush for that. There was lots of heavy rain so it wasnt possible anyways.

    Interestingly the broken panels outputted the correct voltage, but no amps.

    20220809_125046.jpg


    My one working panel has been able to slowly charge my 3.5Kwh battery from pylontech (3000c). It takes a VERY long time, and i think it only brings it to about 90%. I think this has to do with the fact that the controller is 'dumb' without the devices that make it smart. It has a 48V profile setting but it has no temperature sensor or battery management system cable connected. This will allow the battery to inform the charge controller more accurately. Its not a priority for me at all at the moment. I'm not working on the electrics yet.

    First proper trip

    Myself and a friend went to El Choro in Spain for some Climbing. We spent a week camping in the van on a camp site (showers + kitchen). It went great. The ventilation, and bed worked perfectly. The solar panel ALMOST kept the battery with enough power for our fridge for 7 days. It only ran out on the last day. It meant we had cold drinks, milk and meat fresh. I have an eating disorder which requires me to have lots of milk so I felt super liberated by this. Ive never been able to camp like this before partly due to the eating difficulty. I felt super motivated and its really put the step back in the van progress.

    Its worth mentioning that the roof rack got stuck in a tree at one point, and i pulled a large branch off the tree accidently before i noticed. The roof rack didnt budge at all. Super solid, so im very pleased with that :D

    20221123_174041.jpg Screenshot_20220811-164345.jpg


    I have completely quite a bit more work and i will post very soon about. Sometimes jobs just take LOTS of time, and pictures from during it just dont provide much value i think. Currently working on the shower room, the scariest part of the whole build for me!

    Any questions or feedback, please feel free!



  • Posts: 15,801 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I was only thinking about this build the other day when chatting to the wife about going van shopping. Great to see you still tipping along.

    Good catch on the panels and nice to see the supplier sorted you out albeit slowly.

    As regards catching that branch, it might be worth inspecting your seals where the rack is mounted to make sure nothing shifted. Unlikely, but while its fresh in your mind and early in the build, it wouldn't hurt to hold a hose over each mount point to make sure you didn't break a seal.

    Is this the type of battery you got? Interesting to see it done like a server rack

    Are you still planning on doing the interior fitout in extruded aluminum? If so I came across a piece of software that I've seen on a youtube channel that might be of use, its called MayCAD. The idea behind it is it lets you design everything and it'll tell you exactly what bits are needed for each joint, what connectors, how many etc etc

    I haven't used it yet myself but maybe it'll be useful for you




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,870 ✭✭✭Alkers


    Do you have a wiring diagram for your power system?



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