The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

tbh i can't recall if the 'box full light' comes on but the other lights on the dash work

What I am trying to say is that if the box full light goes on and off as it should then we aren't looking any other place for a problem than on the mainboard.

In that case either the buzzer itself has gone or one of the few components on the main board that drive it (provide the correct electrical power) are damaged or have poor soldered connections.

Can "mineral oil" beused in lawnmower engines? My engine takes 10w-30 according to the manual and the only grade I see selling locally is "mineral oil"

Mineral oil is old school oil, probably well suited to a lawnmower engine, but the modern synthetic oils are developed for and pretty much mandatory in the newer auto engines. You can use synthetic in a mower engine, it won't disimprove performance, it will be more tolerant of longer change intervals, with a longer life (if the mower has an oil filter). Plenty of 5-30 synthetic in autoparts stores or online, in fact its getting rare to see semi synthetic on offer as the number of older engines suitable for it diminish.

I have been given a ride on lawnmower that needs work, got it started but problem with clutch/brake pedal, i press it in but have to bring it up with my foot, so looked underneath and a spring as come off ,spring looks intact ,it is still connected one end now I'm not sure where the other connects too, i can see what looks like a threaded nut and bolt, these seems to move freely, not sure how or if it connects to this ,see photos.

^^ They obviously have no OBD.

Briggs and Stratton, for example, recommends both SAE30 oil (which is mineral) and synthetic 5W30.

There's a lot of synthetic 10W30 oils available online, few quick ones from google:

The only OBD on a ride on mower is the On-Board-Dope who has to go around in ever decreasing circles cutting grass, in perpetuam in this life and maybe the next....

Well in my 12 mth old Honda 2417, it has a mobile phone charger, automatic speed control, auto matic headlights and an hour meter, plus as many dash lights as a car when you turn on the key.....

The bad news is you may have broken the timing belt, which carries the drive from the left to the right hand blade. Its easy to drop the stihl deck, no tools required, just pull two pins at the back lifters, pull and lock back the spring loaded belt tensioner, lock front wheels to the right, move the mower back a little to disengage front lifter, then peel off the drive belt, but...

Before you drop the deck, first remove the top belt plactic cover. If the timing belt is broken, it's replaceable with the deck in situ, a little bit of work. Tensioning is important, without a tension meter you'd be safe enough to reset the tensioner back to its original setting, and ypu must set the synchronous blades at right angles to each other, but if in doubt, get it done in a shop. While its possible that the blade spigot pins sheared off, the blade would not be stationary and would rotate out of sync. Good news is here's the belt at reasonable price. https://lawnmowerpartsonline.ie/product/timed-deck-belt-viking-mt5112zl-6170-764-0900-a-61707640900a

€65 is good, the one for the 6127 ZLcan be as high as €150. I done exactly this first mowing of 2020, caught a poplar root that had extended upwards over the winter. It was hell trying to get a new belt in the middle of full lockdown.

You'll need to check the blade for damage, especially if it might have bent upwards on one tip. Lift the deck high and reach in and spin it. Also observe the spigot to make sure the shaft is not bent.

Yeah, I forgot to mention the drinks holder...😎 As for autonomous mowing, why not? The technology is there definitely. If they can control drones with two joysticks , why not the same system controlling a mini-power steering set up in a mower? While you watch it via a dash cam, and steer / drive accordingly from the comfort of the armchair ? But cash wise, it would be prohibitive , better to buy an autonomous mower, and let it do the job for you.

and what if the remote plays up?

Or goes missing down behind the sofa..

Have the Stihl 5112Z for a couple weeks now and as I said earlier in thread it's my first venture into ride-ons. (@KrombopulosMichael sorry to hear you've run into bother with yours.)

I'm still very happy with the machine. It has been fairly put through its paces at this stage between mowing in both collecting and mulching modes as well as towing quite a few heavy enough loads of topsoil and 804. I have to say that it has really impressed so far as a well built and powerful enough lawn tractor.

One question I have, yesterday on a couple of occasions when starting the engine it backfired with a bang on starting up. Just wondering what that's about if anyone has any ideas.

Most likely a weak spark on one cylinder preventing ignition on some compressions, which result in unburnt mix igniting when expelled into a hot exhaust. I'm assuming its exhaust backfire, not a pre ignition on the inlet side. Check the plugs, the sparkplug cables for tightness, check for damage at the coil end, if you fancy removing the cowling. Its possible one coil has failed or is compromised, and is not producing sufficient high voltage at the plug. If you have a spare loose spark plug, you can turn over the engine and alternately check the spark at the gap. If one side looks 'hotter' and more regular than the other it points to a weak spark. One or a couple of these are useful to compare ignition strength and consistency. You pull off the lead at the plug and insert this inline. A neon pulses with the spark.

Have a Husqvzrna ride on with a Kohler engine which recommends 10w 30 oil.

Have this stuff already, wondoring if it good to use?