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Radiator sizes

  • 20-05-2021 08:44PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 292 ✭✭


    We are renovating a 30 yr old house. At an initial search for new rads, we found we can't find the same sizes. Is this a thing or do we need to keep looking? If we can't find the same sizes, length, is it a big job to adapt the existing pipework? The length is the issue, not the height.
    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,298 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Your plumber should be able to source the correct sized rads from his plumbing trade counter. If he can't for some reason then he has several options. Best solution is to alter the pipe work but if it's buried in concrete & you don't want it dug up then he can get different sized tail pieces to make up the difference. He should be getting better quality rads from his supplier than you can buy from a DIY store


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 292 ✭✭misc2013


    That's good to know. We're trying to pick a style of rad so does that mean he could source the style we choose in the right length or make adaptations to the existing pipes? They look pretty permanent so we wouldn't want the hassle and expense of digging them up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,298 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Best bet is to get plumber in to look at the set-up. Give him the measurements of the rads you have picked out & see what he suggests. If you are going for fancy looking rads then maybe the longer tail pieces won't look nice. Plumber will be able to advise you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    misc2013 wrote: »
    That's good to know. We're trying to pick a style of rad so does that mean he could source the style we choose in the right length or make adaptations to the existing pipes? They look pretty permanent so we wouldn't want the hassle and expense of digging them up.

    Hi,
    Have you considered having the pipes recessed in to the wall,
    its quite a simple process of chasing out a small bit of the floor, cutting the existing pipe and fitting an elbow, followed by chasing out a small section of the wall and running some qualplex PVC pipe in then fitting the radiator valve,

    i changed all my radiators to Milano designer radiators purchased from bestheating.ie

    upstairs is easier to do as the floor is easier to chip out using a screwdriver and hammer,

    overall the appearance is cleaner lines and much easier for mopping or vacuuming

    to fill the areas after fitting the new pipes, we used a can of expanding foam which also insulates the pipes, and filled with Ronseal ready mixed filler which is very easy to sand smooth.

    also painted the walls with a sample pot of red paint in all locations where there were pipes to insure the carpenter didn't drive a nail through one when fitting the skirting boards.

    overall we had larger and smaller radiators in each room but recessing the pipes made the process very easy, just need to paint the walls prior to fitting these designer radiators as there banister design means the wall behind is visible from various angles.
    the heat output is also much better due to increased surface to air contact.

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    upstairs was easier as said:

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    Kitchen:

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    relocated the hall radiator too and fitted a coat hanger above it, so theres warm jackets as part of the heating system.
    how's that for smart heating

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 749 ✭✭✭EmptyTree


    ^^^^^^ nice job, looks really well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    That's a much neater appearance, well done.
    Did you remember to fully protect all of the copper pipes and the connections from making contact with the cement?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    EmptyTree wrote: »
    ^^^^^^ nice job, looks really well.
    Thanks very much,
    K.Flyer wrote: »
    That's a much neater appearance, well done.
    Did you remember to fully protect all of the copper pipes and the connections from making contact with the cement?
    Thanks,
    I did,
    First thing after having the pipes fitted, I just placed some MDF board over the holes for two weeks to be sure there was no leaks,

    I then completely filled the wall and floor with cans of expanding foam, felt like Spiderman,
    Left to dry then trimmed back slightly lower than the finished surfaces
    Followed by a small bit of cement on the floor and filler on the walls mainly the light skin of cement was just to maintain appearance on the floor,
    Ended up staying that way with no finished flooring from the beginning of covid until last week when we got the flooring fitted,
    Overall the radiators are in there two years now,
    Fitted Aladdin automatic bleed valves to them aswell, saves ever having to bleed them, and Endotherm additive to the heating system really does save on the heating costs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 763 ✭✭✭Corkey123


    LenWoods

    Those rads look class

    I am presently looking at BeatHeating rads at the moment. Maybe I am confusing matters here but the output of these rads depend on the boiler output Delta BTU 30/50/65.

    Which one did you use for match the rad against your BTU/Watt output requirement.

    Looking at the exact same rads but vertical rather than horizonal.

    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    Corkey123 wrote: »
    LenWoods

    Those rads look class

    I am presently looking at BeatHeating rads at the moment. Maybe I am confusing matters here but the output of these rads depend on the boiler output Delta BTU 30/50/65.

    Which one did you use for match the rad against your BTU/Watt output requirement.

    Looking at the exact same rads but vertical rather than horizonal.

    Cheers
    Thanks,
    I went by the BTU output of the radiator but mainly I done my best to match the size of the existing radiator with the replacement, I wasn't that knowledgeable at the time,
    Mainly I just wanted the look and as close to the same size as existing,
    However; having now experienced there ability on my blog standard grant kerosene boiler which was fitted in 2002,
    I reckon you could fit a smaller Milano radiator to achieve the same output as your existing radiator,

    I think the British Thermal Units or BTU for short; is based on the size of the room and addition's then for window size and the area of outside walls all contribute's.
    But to be honest; I didn't get in to that when purchasing I just got as close match,
    I should have just gotten a single layer for the hall rather than the double layer as the heat can be felt from the stairs lol
    I recommend adding the plunger piece to any tall radiators as it prevents cold spots and makes circulation less of a strain on the system:
    Link: https://www.bestheating.ie/milano-flow-diverter-15mm-inlet-63476
    There available in different sizes, check size required prior to purchase,

    Also; If planning to fit Aladdin automatic bleed valves; there cheaper buying from "smartgreenshop.co.uk" or "purchase.ie" I also recommend a bottle of "Endotherm" when filling the system,

    Thanks for the feedback and discussion.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,921 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    LenWoods wrote: »
    Thanks very much,

    Thanks,
    I did,
    First thing after having the pipes fitted, I just placed some MDF board over the holes for two weeks to be sure there was no leaks,

    I then completely filled the wall and floor with cans of expanding foam, felt like Spiderman,
    Left to dry then trimmed back slightly lower than the finished surfaces
    Followed by a small bit of cement on the floor and filler on the walls mainly the light skin of cement was just to maintain appearance on the floor,
    Ended up staying that way with no finished flooring from the beginning of covid until last week when we got the flooring fitted,
    Overall the radiators are in there two years now,
    Fitted Aladdin automatic bleed valves to them aswell, saves ever having to bleed them, and Endotherm additive to the heating system really does save on the heating costs.

    Those Aladdin bleeders are nice. I’ve used a few at home but can’t trust them enough to use them on the job yet.
    Make sure the bare copper is totally wrapped in plastic. Compression fittings shouldn’t be used under the floor.
    As for that rad that’s not centred under wall art piece, please centre it!!!!!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 292 ✭✭misc2013


    Any advice re types? Am looking at trade sites so have no idea of cost. Happy fprbog standard in bathrooms and bedrooms but would like something nicer in living areas and hall as doing a full renovation downstairs. PLumber mentioned aluminium. Are they expensive? Having a look at heatmerchants.ie and the range seems limited.

    Also, was asked if double or single? He said people seldom go for single nowadays and that there's v little in the difference in price. I'velooked up one trade place brochure and they're practically double the price??

    Looking at "designer " on heat merchants. Again, seems one type. Is there much of a difference in cost between the column one e.g. Stelrad Classic v the panel type one e.g Comfort section aluminium horizontal (heatmerchants)?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,921 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    misc2013 wrote: »
    Any advice re types? Am looking at trade sites so have no idea of cost. Happy fprbog standard in bathrooms and bedrooms but would like something nicer in living areas and hall as doing a full renovation downstairs. PLumber mentioned aluminium. Are they expensive? Having a look at heatmerchants.ie and the range seems limited.

    Also, was asked if double or single? He said people seldom go for single nowadays and that there's v little in the difference in price. I'velooked up one trade place brochure and they're practically double the price??

    It depends. If you’re going for the standard looking radiator then let the plumber get them. If you’re going for something fancy(which I would advise against) then you need to get the kw requirement for those rooms, pick your rad style and buy a radiator that gives the desired kws you need


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 292 ✭✭misc2013


    What about the double v single price comparison?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,921 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    misc2013 wrote: »
    What about the double v single price comparison?

    You’d have to price whatever company you’re buying them from. A 2 metre single will gave the same output as a 1metre double but the single will take up most of the wall. That’s assuming youre talking about standard rads. Aluminium rads don’t come as single/double and other fancy rads I can’t tell you about them cause I don’t know


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,468 ✭✭✭phormium


    That's a lovely neat job with the pipes chased into the wall, perfect if you have no existing floors to consider. Sorry now I didn't think of that the past couple of months when I had no floor down in the kitchen and I could have done that with one of the existing radiators which I actually had though about changing to one of those lovely blue ones you have but alas I didn't think of it!

    On the other point re sizes my brother lately had to change all his rads, same 30ish yr old house, none of the sizes now matched what he had so it required a bit of messing with the pipes to make them fit, in general he had to for slightly smaller as easier to join into existing pipes. He fairly searched every supplier here and UK as it was before Brexit but they just don't make the exact sizes anymore like the old ones, he was recommended several sites that dealt in old radiators but decided against that as newer more efficient apparently and might just be swapping existing ones for ones that hadn't much life left in them either!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21 Steveop


    Just so you know compression fittings are not meant to be used under concrete even if insulated.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    Steveop wrote: »
    Just so you know compression fittings are not meant to be used under concrete even if insulated.

    +1
    I wasn't aware of this when preparing install, I bought compression fittings, but my plumber whom was also my father advised against using compression fittings and provided his own wrench type brass fittings as saw when zoomed in on the images.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21 Steveop


    Fittings used in your photo are compression fittings. So basically any fitting that’s made from brass and is nut and ring type cannot be used under ground or buried in a wall. I’m a plumber my self that’s how I know.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    Steveop wrote: »
    Fittings used in your photo are compression fittings. So basically any fitting that’s made from brass and is nut and ring type cannot be used under ground or buried in a wall. I’m a plumber my self that’s how I know.

    I'm not looking to derail this thread bit I must respond;

    Ow rite sorry, I didn't know they were compression fittings; I thought these saw in the top of the image below were compression fittings;

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    I also thought maybe you had saw my home improvement thread at a glance and assumed I had used those which I had initially purchased for the job and was later advised against using them and instead was offered the; what I now know to be compression fittings,
    Yet still not correct, suppose I've been genuinely lucky nothing has leaked yet but there are surrounded with expanding foam, fitted since early summer 2016.

    Thanks for the info


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