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I want to spend the summer in Germany. Where should I go?

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  • 30-04-2021 9:51am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 557 ✭✭✭


    I’m a mature student just desperate to get out of Ireland. Intend to go to Germany for three months and see what happens. I have Leaving Cert German that’s very far from fluent.

    Wondering where to go. Berlin is the obvious choice and I’ve been there a few times. But I prefer cleaner cities and I’ve heard winters are grim.

    To be quite honest, I’m a bit disappointed that the German cities I’ve looked at aren’t prettier. My sister was deciding on her Spanish Erasmus destinations and all of them looked more appealing.

    I’d be grateful for anyone’s thoughts or experience.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,103 ✭✭✭Living Off The Splash


    Maybe fly down to Memmingen and travel over to Lake Geneva. Do you need to stay in a city? There are some beautiful large towns, maybe choose a University town?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Education Moderators Posts: 27,118 CMod ✭✭✭✭spurious


    To improve your German (if that is one of your reasons) head outside the big cities. Ideally a village full of older people where you have to rely on your German. Hochdeutsch best - no insult meant to folk in the south.


  • Registered Users Posts: 659 ✭✭✭KevinK


    https://theculturetrip.com/europe/germany/articles/the-10-most-beautiful-towns-in-germany/

    Some of these look nice.

    Have been to Dresden briefly and thought it was really interesting.


  • Registered Users Posts: 139 ✭✭KnicksInSix


    Having been on assignment to Berlin and Munich both for a few years I'd choose Berlin as the most interesting but it'll be expensive. Summer months in Germany can be a bit strange because of the exodus to the South. In the high German counties you're going to have a more infustrialised/neutral rebuilt setting. Not beautiful to the eye per se. Having married a South Tyrolean I would far recommend the Austrian Tirol/Bavaria/South Tyrol regions but as already alluded to above it's not really "German" language! My own once flawless German is now entirely dialect affected. These regions in the summer are great places to be though. Beautiful weather, lots of outdoor things to do, easygoing people, alpine architecture, arguably better food than the rest of Germany too. I guess it depends on your aims. For language and nightlife you really should stick to the high German counties but if you want an outdoor good time then the south might be better.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    German cities given their history would not be the most prettiest given the fact that most were re-built after world war 2 and built at speed to be functional. I lived in Germany for 7 years and most cities are spotless.

    Munich would be the obvious start for me, still has a historic old area and lots of work opportunities in every area from finance, IT and Pharma but it is expensive. Munich has everything, the Alps are a short train journey away and great for summer activities but really come into their own for the skiing. Lots to do and see in the city itself.

    Other cities that I would consider would be Cologne or Paderborn. The later is nice university city and a very young demographic.

    A less obvious choice would be Austria, Vienna for example is probably the most beautiful city in Europe, spotlessly clean and safe.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 617 ✭✭✭Space Dog


    If you're after "pretty" then Heidelberg, Freiburg or Trier in the south might fit the bill. Not as big as Munich or Berlin obviously, but they're quite scenic. Heidelberg and Freiburg are big university towns, so there'll be lots of young people.
    Summers in Southern Germany can be brutal though, hot and humid and midges everywhere at night. You're talking up to 40 degrees in late July/August.

    The dialect thing has been mentioned already, the different Southern dialects are far removed from proper high German, so you might struggle in smaller places. In that regard you'd be better off in more multicultural places like Berlin.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Nuremberg is a very beautiful city, but maybe not the friendliest. There are some really lovely little villages up near the north-east coast. Lots of places off the beaten track which are far from industrial and very laid back and friendly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 557 ✭✭✭iffandonlyif


    Thanks everyone for your helpful ideas! Really appreciate it.
    Space Dog wrote: »
    If you're after "pretty"...

    When put like that, maybe I'm adopting an overly touristic mindset. In choosing where to go, I don't really have any other criteria, so prettiness takes on outsized importance. But it would probably be largely irrelevant to whether I enjoy myself.

    I'm somewhat intimidated by the idea of going to a Cork-sized city or the various towns mentioned with my meagre German. At least in a large city there's great variety of experience and I'm more likely to be able to fall back on an international community.

    I'm not sure how important the dialect factor is. Although I think I have a decent ear for the language, my actual knowledge is pretty elementary, so I don't think I'm at particular risk of having my German corrupted! If I were to return next year after I graduate, which is something I'm strongly considering, that might be much more significant.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,761 ✭✭✭Pinch Flat


    I spent a few summers and an erasmus year in karlsruhe many moons ago. Its about the same size as cork. A university city as well. Was meant to to back in 2020 for a holiday but corona put a stop to it. Been back once since my erasmus.

    Not the prettiest of cities but has some nice parts. it has access to nice areas like alsace in France the blackforest as well as being handy for trier and heidelberg mentioned above. The summer climate is very nice but can get well into the 30s.


  • Posts: 2,799 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Freiburg is really nice, not so big.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 213 ✭✭random_guy


    Where do you plan on staying?
    Finding accommodation for three months might be difficult regardless of city.

    Do you want to work or live off savings?

    Corona won't have disappeared here by summer and there's no way things will be fully reopened.
    Jobs in bars and cafes will be tough enough to come by I'd imagine.

    You could always go picking fruit & veg, but then you're no longer in the cities.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,696 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    When put like that, maybe I'm adopting an overly touristic mindset. In choosing where to go, I don't really have any other criteria, so prettiness takes on outsized importance.

    ...

    At least in a large city there's great variety of experience and I'm more likely to be able to fall back on an international community.

    You really, really need to define your reason for wanting to go to Germany before you make a decision, otherwise you risk having nothing more than a three-month holiday and little to show for it other than some nice photos.

    If you set out with the back-up plan to "fall back on an international community" you probably won't learn any more German than you did in school. It's hard enough to learn any language in three months if you're just winging it, and German needs a lot more investment than that. As soon as you start stuttering, the Germans will switch to English!

    You'll also find that the "international community" is mostly based around drinks nights and social outings - not hugely different to life in Dublin. "Real" Germans largely do their socialising in the context of activities, i.e. events associated with their particular leisure interest, whether that be relatively passive like photography (could still involve a 20km hike), or more active, like dancing, mountain biking or skiing.

    For the same reason, this "native" social life is not so limited by geography as you might expect. In the pre-corona days, I had (hopefully still have) a network of German friends based loosely around Freiburg. On any given weekend, I'm equally likely to meet up with them in Germany, France or Switzerland - or all three on successive evenings - according to where the most fun is to be found on the day in question.

    In terms of prettiness, as has been mentioned, vast swathes of Germany are modern, having been completely destroyed in WW2 and subsequently rebuilt; the picturesque parts tend to be the most rural, and mostly towards the south. As it happens, that's where I spend most of my time in that area, straddling the borders with France, Switzerland and Austria. Language isn't too much of a barrier when you have a common interest, or when you keep life simple!

    But if you really don't have any idea of what you hope to get out of your three months, you'd nearly be better off taking your bike (or the horse :rolleyes: ) to France and cycling across the continent until you run out of road.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I'd recommend looking at towns like Regensburg and Passau in Bavaria. As well as being situated in a beautiful part of Germany (sorry to any Bavarians reading! :o) they are also close to the Austrian and Czech borders if you fancy checking out other countries quite easily during your 3 month trip.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,961 ✭✭✭BailMeOut


    visit Nördlingen, it's the town built in a meteor crater on millions of microscopic diamonds.

    noerdlingen-luftbild-800.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 Cool Hand Lucy


    Worked as an au pair in Neustadt an der Weinstraße many moons ago. Friend was in Heidelberg. Both pretty places. I remember lots of forest trails. Went to Dresden and Berlin on city breaks and would recommend them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,065 ✭✭✭otnomart


    Heidelberg and Koblenz for pretty (and close to Frankfurt and Cologne respectively).
    Hamburg - does not qualify as pretty as it is quite modern - plenty of things to see and do.


  • Registered Users Posts: 557 ✭✭✭iffandonlyif


    Thanks again for everyone’s thoughts.
    random_guy wrote: »
    Where do you plan on staying?
    Finding accommodation for three months might be difficult regardless of city.

    Do you want to work or live off savings?

    Corona won't have disappeared here by summer and there's no way things will be fully reopened.
    Jobs in bars and cafes will be tough enough to come by I'd imagine.

    You could always go picking fruit & veg, but then you're no longer in the cities.
    You really, really need to define your reason for wanting to go to Germany before you make a decision, otherwise you risk having nothing more than a three-month holiday and little to show for it other than some nice photos.

    If you set out with the back-up plan to "fall back on an international community" you probably won't learn any more German than you did in school. It's hard enough to learn any language in three months if you're just winging it, and German needs a lot more investment than that. As soon as you start stuttering, the Germans will switch to English!

    I haven’t got grand ambitions of coming back fluent in the language, or even moderately competent. Even just stimulating my elementary German would be a success. The principal goal is to get out of Ireland, and with such a modest goal it’s hard not to succeed. I’m painfully bored at the moment and I’d rather be bored in Germany than here.

    Plan is to rent a room for a month (don’t ask me how!) and see what happens - ideally I’d find work somehow, but failing that I’d be happy merely to have had a holiday. I probably sound hopelessly naive, but I fear that if I try to plan far ahead and discover the obstacles in my way, I’ll likely end up not going.
    For the same reason, this "native" social life is not so limited by geography as you might expect. In the pre-corona days, I had (hopefully still have) a network of German friends based loosely around Freiburg. On any given weekend, I'm equally likely to meet up with them in Germany, France or Switzerland - or all three on successive evenings - according to where the most fun is to be found on the day in question.

    In terms of prettiness, as has been mentioned, vast swathes of Germany are modern, having been completely destroyed in WW2 and subsequently rebuilt; the picturesque parts tend to be the most rural, and mostly towards the south. As it happens, that's where I spend most of my time in that area, straddling the borders with France, Switzerland and Austria. Language isn't too much of a barrier when you have a common interest, or when you keep life simple!

    But if you really don't have any idea of what you hope to get out of your three months, you'd nearly be better off taking your bike (or the horse :rolleyes: ) to France and cycling across the continent until you run out of road.

    Thanks for describing your lifestyle. Sounds very enviable. I wish I were ambitious and brave enough to do as you suggest.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,696 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    The principal goal is to get out of Ireland, and with such a modest goal it’s hard not to succeed. I’m painfully bored at the moment and I’d rather be bored in Germany than here.

    Genuine question: why Germany?

    Obviously with all the travel restrictions in place, it's difficult for anyone to go anywhere and know what to expect when they arrive, but there are still programmes such as woofing and workaway offering bed and board in exchange for not-too-hard labour, in places all across the Continent. No reason to be bored anywhere!


  • Registered Users Posts: 213 ✭✭random_guy


    Thanks again for everyone’s thoughts.





    I haven’t got grand ambitions of coming back fluent in the language, or even moderately competent. Even just stimulating my elementary German would be a success. The principal goal is to get out of Ireland, and with such a modest goal it’s hard not to succeed. I’m painfully bored at the moment and I’d rather be bored in Germany than here.

    Plan is to rent a room for a month (don’t ask me how!) and see what happens - ideally I’d find work somehow, but failing that I’d be happy merely to have had a holiday. I probably sound hopelessly naive, but I fear that if I try to plan far ahead and discover the obstacles in my way, I’ll likely end up not going.



    Thanks for describing your lifestyle. Sounds very enviable. I wish I were ambitious and brave enough to do as you suggest.


    If it's as unsure as that then bring the bike or pick one up here, and pick one of the cycling routes.


    https://www.radroutenplaner-deutschland.de/veraDNetz_EN.asp If you're not so used to cycling then choose one of the river routes as they're flatter. Set your own pace and stay in random hostels as you go. Whenever they open again that is.


  • Registered Users Posts: 557 ✭✭✭iffandonlyif


    Genuine question: why Germany?

    Obviously with all the travel restrictions in place, it's difficult for anyone to go anywhere and know what to expect when they arrive, but there are still programmes such as woofing and workaway offering bed and board in exchange for not-too-hard labour, in places all across the Continent. No reason to be bored anywhere!

    Germany because I feel a connection with it having studied the language at school, and because I have aspirations to learn the language. And I’d prefer to be independent in Germany rather than relying on agencies that aren’t known for providing the best living conditions.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,834 ✭✭✭munchkin_utd


    Thinking about the feasibility of the plan, it could be a good time to be able to work in restaurants, bars and pubs as its possible that many will be short staffed . You could also work as a housekeeper in a hotel as that doesnt require the local language.
    Some random country places seem to be having issues finding staff for hotel and catering and with those you may have a better chance of getting accomodation as part of the package than a city chain hotel looking for people on the "mini-job" scheme (a german way of getting unemployed back into the labour force by working part time for a pittance, which in the end only massages the unemployment numbers and keeps those people dependent on the social welfare supports - many employers actively seek people on this scheme as they also dodge lots of employer related taxes).

    For jobs, Im surprised nobody mentioned that you should look up the job office. As mentioned above somewhere random like Nördlingen or Dinkelsbühl could be good and they are touristy areas. There was a documentary on the radio a while back that the affluent Schwäbisch Hall area couldnt find people for jobs in hotels and whatnot. That whole area is full of family ran engineering and manufacturing businesses that train up and keep the locals employed but then theres labour shortages in other areas as nobody from outside or abroad would randomly think of moving en masse to small towns in the german equivalent of Cavan or Roscommon. This very minute might not be ideal for looking, but give it a week or 2 until lockdowns are lifted and that'll change.

    Anyhow, the job centre seach engine is here with 740,000 open positions all across the country. Surely someone will give you a start !
    https://con.arbeitsagentur.de/prod/jobboerse/jobsuche-ui/
    You can also create a profile as a job seeker so maybe that'd also help - let destiny guide you to somewhere random !


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Education Moderators Posts: 27,118 CMod ✭✭✭✭spurious


    There is also the EU backed and funded volunteer EVS programme which pays an allowance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,399 ✭✭✭dalyboy


    I lived in Karlsruhe for 3 months (temp job contract)
    Haven’t been back in 20 years. It’s defo a firm pin in my map of desired revisits.

    It’s got incredible history and the cities architecture is reminiscent of Georgian period.

    Countless activities at hand including an open air zoo in the centre of the city.
    Very friendly people there and you can easily survive without German language as English is spoken widely.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,696 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    I’d prefer to be independent in Germany rather than relying on agencies that aren’t known for providing the best living conditions.

    Workaway and woofing aren't "agencies" and anyone I know who's taken part would confirm that the living conditions are generally far, far, far, far superior than sub-sub-letting a room in a flat in a rent-controlled German town or city!

    I'm not affiliated with either of those platforms, by the way - but as a couchsurfing host, I would have people stay with me who were between placements with one or the other.

    There is a whole network of social collaboration and networking in continental Europe, dating back to well before the Internet, that is quite alien to people in Ireland. Don't make the mistake of transferring Irish (or British!) preconceptions onto practices and activities that happen to have the same label in France or Germany.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,242 ✭✭✭ForestFire


    I thought there are option in South braveria and other alpine regions to get accomation in farmhouse in exchange for working on the farm (not sure where I remember this from to be honest).

    Might be something to look into if your interested and it's still available.


  • Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭kildarecommuter


    Plus 1 on Paderborn lovely city
    krissovo wrote: »
    German cities given their history would not be the most prettiest given the fact that most were re-built after world war 2 and built at speed to be functional. I lived in Germany for 7 years and most cities are spotless.

    Munich would be the obvious start for me, still has a historic old area and lots of work opportunities in every area from finance, IT and Pharma but it is expensive. Munich has everything, the Alps are a short train journey away and great for summer activities but really come into their own for the skiing. Lots to do and see in the city itself.

    Other cities that I would consider would be Cologne or Paderborn. The later is nice university city and a very young demographic.

    A less obvious choice would be Austria, Vienna for example is probably the most beautiful city in Europe, spotlessly clean and safe.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,834 ✭✭✭munchkin_utd


    Austria is opening their tourism industry next week and they are predicting staff shortages, so thats another option.
    https://www.faz.net/aktuell/wirtschaft/corona-personalnot-daempft-oeffnungsfreude-in-oesterreich-17343856.html

    The Austrian accent in general isnt as bad as a super strong Bavarian one, and they use standard german structures unlike in Switzerland or South Tirol (Italy) , before anyone points out that a regional country location, in a different country, doesnt use "standard" hochdeutsch.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Bay9


    Hi iffandonlyif,

    good on you for getting going and exploring. Assuming everyone is vaccinated by then. I think Germany would be in full swing, assuming everyone still adheres to the usual social distancing precautions. Be aware in Germany, they do take mask wearing- seriously and you will be reprimanded quickly on trains etc if your mask does not cover your nose etc.
    Regarding nice cities to live/work in. As has been said the southern cities are generally more attractive, also the surrounding countryside too. Northern German has its charms too - Hamburg is a big city, obviously not Alpine-pretty but it has its own Hanseatic Prussian style, as have lots of northern cities-. Flensburg- practically in Denmark. Also handy for exploring Denmark and the Low countries.
    Then you have the north- and Baltic sea islands, Sylt etc. These have their own micro-culture and are packed in summer. Might be a bit limiting for you.
    Berlin you know.
    Muenster is a nice old college town in the north, has its own vibe.
    The north-middle is heavily populated and previously industrial area of the Ruhr: Essen, Dortmund, Duisburg, not scenic at all. Even s Dusseldorf is trendy according to Dusseldorfers but not very scenic.
    Hannover- meh. They say the best Hochdeutsch is spoken there but you can listen to that on the TV, podcasts, no need to live there.
    Cologne is a nice big old city and is strategically located with great rail and road travel connections (also cheap flights to Ireland).
    Trier, an old Roman city to the west is nice, close also to Luxemburg and to the Alsace region of France with Strasbourg.
    Nuremburg is nice, mediaeval, maybe a bit small
    Baden Baden- an old spa town. Still has a spa feel. Full of rich people, bit sedate.
    The southern cities. German as you will know from your studies is composed of federal Laender and each Land/State has its own capital and several other large cities too in most cases, so there is plenty of choice. I think the south is nicer for many reasons, you are closer to the mountains, plenty of outdoor activites, vibrant scenic cities and good rail connections to Austria, Switzerland Czeck Republic and northern Italy.

    The tri-state area around Freiburg in the south west is lovely ("Dreilander Eck") you can get around between Germany, France and Switzerland. Freiburg im Breisgau is a nice university town with a vibrant feel.
    Lindau this is a smaller town on Lake Constance but attracts a large crowd of tourists (airport to Friedrichshafen).
    Munich to the south-east of course which is big and cosmopolitan with lots of southern flair and with great fast links to the Bavarian Alps. Munich is very popular and is correspondingly expensive but as you are coming from Ireland that won't shock you. Munich has not just a great outdoor lifestyle but also good shops and museums etc. I would set Munich as my base and travel around maybe a bit from there.

    You could also venture further south to Salzburg in Austria (packed with tourists), or over to the Austrian capital Vienna, very atmospheric (Hapsburg empire style). Graz is worth a mention too, or villach and Klagenfurth a nice place close to Lake Woerthersee, - what the Austrians consider their chic semi-Mediterannean resort in summer, definitely loads of tourist jobs around there.

    I think you will find summer work easily. Try for a job in a city, that way if it doesn't work out you can always leave and get another. (I know a student from Ireland who got a job in a cheese factory in deepest Bavaria and was stuck there all summer, in the absolute back of beyond, barely a bus anywhere, they managed only one trip to see a city).

    I wouldn't worry about the language and dialects too much. Some Germans will be delighted that you are trying to speak German. They will undoubtedly try and use you as practice for improving their English but you will pick up loads of the language from just living there.
    Regarding travel etc. The German rail transport system is very good. You can pay more for fast trains EC and ICE, but the small regional trains s will get you around. If you plan to travel a lot by train you could buy a Bahn Card, there is a 3-month trial version, and you can get Bahncards with 25 and 50% discounts on travel. Deutsche Bahn often publishes discounted travel to nearby countries eg to Prague. The big cities all have their own underground and trams as well as buses. There are intercity buses too and plenty of private operators. For long distances look at Flixbus; very cheap long distance coaches. The Bayern Card gives you (and up to 4 friends) unlimited travel in the State of Bavaria for approx €28 for one day, up to 3 am on the following day. Other States have similar offers.
    Lucky you. Go for it and enjoy the summer. You'll have a fabulous time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,604 ✭✭✭Amadan Dubh


    Some great mentions that aren't Berlin but have not seen Ulm mentioned yet. I think it actually has the exact same population as Cork but that isn't why I mention it. It is a large town, young and laid back Southern Germany style to it. Great beer gardens and very beautiful to walk around, it has the majestic Danube flowing through it as well. Excellent base to explore Munich or the Alps.

    I spent a few weeks in Germany last summer and just to note that they were no where near as bothered by covid as we were in Ireland. Life was essentially back to normal, you could go to any bar or restaurant you wanted without booking (just wearing a mask while walking to your table) and the streets and beer gardens were thronged. We even went to Erding, the giant spa near Munich, and there was no social distancing or anything like that even with hundreds of or even a couple thousand people inside milling about. I suspect Germany will be similarly relaxed this summer while Ireland keeps those awful yellow covid posters up and the media fly kites on "concerning" trends and "hopes" for easing.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,103 ✭✭✭Living Off The Splash



    I spent a few weeks in Germany last summer and just to note that they were no where near as bothered by covid as we were in Ireland. Life was essentially back to normal, you could go to any bar or restaurant you wanted without booking (just wearing a mask while walking to your table) and the streets and beer gardens were thronged. We even went to Erding, the giant spa near Munich, and there was no social distancing or anything like that even with hundreds of or even a couple thousand people inside milling about..

    And you actually think that this was a good call by the government? The Covid cases went through the roof in Germany at one stage.


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