Light Recommendations (formerly Front Light For Dark Country) Road Commute

Just one last thing that I'm just wondering for future reference.... if you had two wheels set up, say one with a lighterweight dyno hub and rim, and one a cheap heavy dyno hub with bullet proof rim (and commuter tyres), is it just unconnect the lego block from one and reconnect? Would the connection be robust enough for say weekly change overs like that? I'm presuming so, as if you puncture you'd have to disconnect? Sorry, that's probably a stupid question!

Yeah, I think I've ruled that out. I'm still mulling over work security, even for just the light of the set up. No batteries is no benefit if no light when I go back to it!

ILIKEFOOD wrote: »

wasn't even thinking dynamo until I saw this thread

anyone familiar with this german company?

https://www.taylor-wheels.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=laufrad_groesse&p=11&q=dynamo+wheel

Prices seem quite low for a wheel with dynamo...(not knowing anything about dynamos!)

Bought 26in wheels from them 2 years ago with cheap shimano dynamo hub and deore rear hub. Still perfectly true and bearings are smooth. Cheapest by a mile when I was buying and I was sceptical too. Scepticism was unfounded.

ILIKEFOOD wrote: »

Euppy wrote: »

Bought 26in wheels from them 2 years ago with cheap shimano dynamo hub and deore rear hub. Still perfectly true and bearings are smooth. Cheapest by a mile when I was buying and I was sceptical too. Scepticism was unfounded.

Interesting - I’ll have to look into this further! Assume there’s all sorts of lights that need certain types of dynamos to generate the required power and all that?

Typically any dynamo light will work with any dynamo. Theyre all designed to be 3v(?). Anyway, nust buy some german brand head and tail lights, you wont regret it.

I got a wheelset, and lights for roughly 200e. Never having to think/worry about lights is great. Ive got a b&m headlight and is perfect on unlit roads.

cdaly_ wrote:

Depending on which front light you get it may or may not come with wire for the rear light. If you wire the rear light to the front then you can control both lights from the front light switch. Otherwise the rear light is always on (not a bad thing in my view). As I understand it, the rear light has the brake functionality built in so it should work independently of the front. I must try wiring mine separately by way of test...

From what I can make out the brake light function needs the connection to the front light. The ones I picked are always on I think. Certainly the front, as it's a sensor one.

Are b&m a standard fitting? I see other companies have quick release mounts, and there does seem to be a couple of quick release wire connectors out there, like dyna snap? I think I'm looking at handle bar mounted, I'd be happy enough crown mounted would fly under the radar of the average scrote. I might be able to flatten the standard crown mount I guess, but tyre clearance with mudguards is fairly tight as it is.

cdaly_ wrote: »

I'd go for the crown mount every time. I don't think there should be an issue with tyre clearance as your fork should be drilled front-to-back and the mount shouldn't get near tyre or even top of mudguard.

No, what I meant is my fork crown doesn't have a mounting point. It's disc braked. It may have one under the crown for mudguards - but I don't think it does - I forgot to check last night. I'm 99% sure it only has a mounting point on the rear/ insider of the crown for the mudguard.

If it did have one underneath, and I could do something, it would involved lowering the mudguard which is where the clearance would come in. i.e. underneath the crown i'd have light mount on the mounting point + mudguard, and I don't think that'd leave clearance.

Weepsie wrote: »

You could look at getting a headset mount? They basically replace a spacer, and have the light positioned a bit higher than they would if on the crown, but lower and cleaner than on the handlebars.

I'm going to get one or 2 myself just as an option.

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.php

If you've a 1" steerer you can order from SJS

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/busch-muller-light-bracket-to-fit-headset-222mm1-inch-steerer-tube-in-plastic/

easily filed down too I guess ( and judging by reviews)

Would that not result in the headlamp ending up in the middle of the gear & brake cables and getting tangled when you turn?

Came across this really good blog

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/09/20/myth-14-more-lumens-make-a-better-light/

Lights seem expensive though.

I picked these up. Hopefully they're good, although I really fancy a set of the see sense lights

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B076PYZ63M

Mc Love wrote: »

I picked these up. Hopefully they're good, although I really fancy a set of the see sense lights

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B076PYZ63M

"100LM taillight"? That's horribly abusive to your fellow cyclists. You'd want to point that at the ground or you'll dazzle everybody behind you...

Got this, this and this on Amazon recently. Absolute bargains. Super bright.

Mc Love wrote: »

I was looking at those apace but decided to go for the ruby lite set and man they are bright!! That other light you got, 1200 lumen on the front

Tis savage alright. And that's without a battery pack. I have it pointed downwards as twud blind drivers.

I'm ready to commit to the dynamo set up. Have the lights and brackets picked from Rose, but preferring a wheel from Bike Discount ("better" hub/ lighter rim). As I'm splitting the order anyway, any other recommendations for sites that sell complete hub dynamo wheels?

This :
https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-accessories/bike-lights/halfords-advanced-1600-lumen-front-bike-light-253334.html


1600 lumens, super bright when you need it.

Keep it in 250 when in the city and the battery will last fir a Long long time.