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Hantarex US300 - replace with similar, service, or change?

  • 04-08-2020 10:47PM
    #1
    cps_goodbuy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 330 ✭✭


    I'm trying to restore an Electrocoin Xenon that has a working Hantarex US300.

    I'd like to keep the cabinet as original as possible but I heard horror stories about these units.. along the lines of when they die, they like to take out the monitor and game pcb at the same time. yikes.

    Has anyone been in the same situation? What have you done or what do you think is the best solution generally? Is there something similar to replace it with, can it be serviced and some kind of safety put in place, or is it best/ok to change it out with an isolation transformer and switcher? (If there is room I'd keep the US300 in place)

    Purists Vs Practical-ists ..Fight!
    Tagged:


Comments

  • #2
    o1s1n
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 37,330 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    I'd put a PSU in the same camp as sticks and buttons, it's a part that eventually needs to be replaced and doing so would not render the cabinet 'no longer original'.

    I'm not familiar with a Hantarex US300, however if a PSU in one of my cabs had that kind of track record, I'd be whipping it out and putting in a new one for definite.


  • #3
    Inviere
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,218 ✭✭✭Inviere


    cps_goodbuy wrote: »
    Purists Vs Practical-ists ..Fight!

    Replace it with a modern arcade switching power supply, no question for me. There's a line between authenticity and functionality...this time it's worth crossing.

    Retro Computers/Consoles Repair/Restoration List



  • #4
    BGOllie
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,607 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    Get a switcher and an ISO for the monitor.

    I love restoration and keeping it original but psu is the one thing I always change if they're original.
    Not worth the hassle and old psu can be highly unreliable. Not to mention damaging other components when they go out and spike.

    New ones are much more stable and reliable in general. I'd spend more time fixing a couple of original buttons than a PSU :)


  • #5
    cps_goodbuy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 330 ✭✭cps_goodbuy


    o1s1n wrote: »
    I'd put a PSU in the same camp as sticks and buttons, it's a part that eventually needs to be replaced and doing so would not render the cabinet 'no longer original'.

    I'm not familiar with a Hantarex US300, however if a PSU in one of my cabs had that kind of track record, I'd be whipping it out and putting in a new one for definite.

    Thanks, that makes the decision a lot easier.

    It is the same design as the Hantarex US250, just with a fan on top.


  • #6
    cps_goodbuy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 330 ✭✭cps_goodbuy


    Thank you all for your advice.

    Where do you buy your switchers and ISOs? I'd prefer to buy new.

    Do you think I need an ISO with 128v DC for the chassis and 220v for degaussing.

    The tube is a Videocolor A59EAS00X01 (also says "Monitor made by Hantarex") and the chassis looks like a Hantarex MTC9110 but I am not 100% sure. Can anyone confirm? Are there variations? Pics attached:

    20200805-115521.jpg
    20200805-115913.jpg
    20200805-115949.jpg


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  • #7
    80s Synth Pop
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 795 ✭✭✭80s Synth Pop


    The isolation transformer and PSU should be in a little metal casing at the back of the cab in a neat boxed package that slides into the cabinet brackets. You can unscrew the old PSU and install a new one. The MWP-606 model works fine as a drop in replacement.

    I'd measure the voltages on the old PSU and see if it's bad or needs adjusting.

    Is the isolation transformer known for going bad too? I've only original isolation transformers all still running fine.

    Chassis looks like an MTC9110. If it has a fan above the flyback it is 100% an MTC9110


  • #8
    cps_goodbuy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 330 ✭✭cps_goodbuy


    Thanks! With some yoga I can confirm there is a fan :D

    As far as I'm aware, the US300 (US250) is a combo unit so I think if I were to replace it I'd have to get a PSU and ISO.

    Are MWP-606s reliable and are there better alternatives?

    I've only found one isolation transformer that will do 128v so far. Any recommendations?
    80s Synth Pop wrote: »
    The isolation transformer and PSU should be in a little metal casing at the back of the cab in a neat boxed package that slides into the cabinet brackets. You can unscrew the old PSU and install a new one. The MWP-606 model works fine as a drop in replacement.

    I'd measure the voltages on the old PSU and see if it's bad or needs adjusting.

    Is the isolation transformer known for going bad too? I've only original isolation transformers all still running fine.

    Chassis looks like an MTC9110. If it has a fan above the flyback it is 100% an MTC9110


  • #9
    remoteboy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,049 ✭✭✭remoteboy


    I have a Xenon with a US250 powering a Hantarex 9110. The PSU was faulty - low voltages across the 5v, 12v and 135v outputs. I recapped the unit and replaced the fuses and it’s running fine for me now (fingers crossed). I did a lot of reading about the unit and read similar horror stories but they seemed anecdotal - ie that it had a bad reputation - rather than actual stories from people it happened to. If you’re uncomfortable using the unit then by all means replace it but if it’s fully functional and the machine has other bits that need fixing maybe focus on them first.


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