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Mazda 3 2.2 used car

  • 16-05-2019 01:26PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭


    Hi can someone help with a bit of advice

    I looking to buy a madaza 3 2.2 diesel has full specs platium and its 2014 one owner full service history with 120000 on the clock. The problem is that I want to but this car as its a good price but the dealer only give 3 months warranty and no way of buying external warranty myself as its outside the mileage it covers. I have a few concerns the cluthch has never been changed and the turbo either. Can I insist that the dealer put in a new clucth. The turbo could last up to 500000.

    This is the car I am looking for and ever other car is a lot more than I can afford. So what people think.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,433 ✭✭✭NomadicGray


    Whats wrong with the clutch?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    I have not taken it for a drive yet. Its just the mileage and the car is five years old and the milage being so high and its never been replaced


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,849 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    No dealer is going to replace a clutch unless it's showing signs of failing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    bazz26 wrote: »
    No dealer is going to replace a clutch unless it's showing signs of failing.
    even though a clutch only generally lasts 100000 miles and this is at 1200000
    any tips how to know its going to go. I just afraid like four months in the clucth goes and then I am stuck


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,175 ✭✭✭cruizer101


    In theory a clutch can last the life of a car, or with a bad driver can be worn out in a very short time (heard story from a mate who worked in car rental of a customer burning out a clutch on a new car over a weekend of driving).
    So unless there was some sign of wear no chance a dealer is going to go to that expense.
    Clutch is kind of a funny part in that in some ways it is a consumable and I think not covered in certain warranties.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,498 ✭✭✭Wheety


    My car is 12 years old with 135k on it. The clutch is fine. Have you ruined all your previous clutches if you think this is a thing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    Wheety wrote: »
    My car is 12 years old with 135k on it. The clutch is fine. Have you ruined all your previous clutches if you think this is a thing?
    this car is five years old with 120miles in the clock


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    cruizer101 wrote: »
    In theory a clutch can last the life of a car, or with a bad driver can be worn out in a very short time (heard story from a mate who worked in car rental of a customer burning out a clutch on a new car over a weekend of driving).
    So unless there was some sign of wear no chance a dealer is going to go to that expense.
    Clutch is kind of a funny part in that in some ways it is a consumable and I think not covered in certain warranties.
    I cant even get extend warranty which I was willing to buy myself with the garage cause its over 200km


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    cruizer101 wrote: »
    In theory a clutch can last the life of a car, or with a bad driver can be worn out in a very short time (heard story from a mate who worked in car rental of a customer burning out a clutch on a new car over a weekend of driving).
    So unless there was some sign of wear no chance a dealer is going to go to that expense.
    Clutch is kind of a funny part in that in some ways it is a consumable and I think not covered in certain warranties.

    any suggestive what you to look out for for on the cluctch to know if its on the way out. Like the one good thing is there is a full service history


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,146 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    swanie29 wrote: »
    any suggestive what you to look out for for on the cluctch to know if its on the way out. Like the one good thing is there is a full service history

    If the dealer is only offering the most basic of warranties, and I can only presume that the money involved here is significant enough, ask if you can bring it to your own mechanic to give it a once over. You'll have to pay for that check obviously, but if you are set on this one then it's worth it.

    I wouldn't get too hung up on the clutch, there is no rule that says it should be done at 200k. To check if it is slipping then drive the car at say 50km/h, put it in the highest gear it has (5 presumably) and floor it. If the clutch is going the revs will climb instead of the car accelerating.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,849 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    swanie29 wrote: »
    even though a clutch only generally lasts 100000 miles and this is at 1200000
    any tips how to know its going to go. I just afraid like four months in the clucth goes and then I am stuck

    A clutch is considered a wear and tear item as is the dual mass flywheel. There is no set time or mileage interval at which time they can fail. The only way a dealer would replace them at the time of sale is if either were showing signs of failure i.e. clutch slipping or flywheel causing a vibration through the clutch pedal or gearbox. Even with a used car warranty you would be hard pushed to get either replaced for free by a dealer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,114 ✭✭✭GustavoFring


    I take it given you're looking for advise on how to check the clutch or get a warranty on it the cars keenly priced compared to others?

    That engine isn't known for its reliability and the clutch would be the very least of my worries with one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,328 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    swanie29 wrote: »
    The turbo could last up to 500000.

    The engine won’t.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭SaintsYB


    swanie29 wrote: »
    this car is five years old with 120miles in the clock

    And his car is 12 years old with 135k on the clock. I used to have a 2008 3 Series with 300k kilometres on the clock, the clutch didn't need to be done.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,456 ✭✭✭The high horse brigade


    I have a 132 Mazda 6 with 138k miles and no issues with the clutch, the car has been remapped to 200bhp since ~100k. No garage will change a clutch without there being obvious issues.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Snotty


    swanie29 wrote: »
    this car is five years old with 120miles in the clock

    Which means its probably a lot of motorway miles, which is less severe on a clutch. 50k City driving could be much more ware


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    Snotty wrote: »
    Which means its probably a lot of motorway miles, which is less severe on a clutch. 50k City driving could be much more ware
    I ask that question is mostly motorway milage didn't think of that. But then that mean the clutch might be ok so another while. I also so a lot of motorway driving


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,328 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    As said before. The clutch is the least of your worries with those. If you’re worried about the price of a clutch, that’s the thin end of the wedge in terms of what could go wrong.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    As said before. The clutch is the least of your worries with those. If you’re worried about the price of a clutch, that’s the thin end of the wedge in terms of what could go wrong.

    Do you mean that the .madza are a bad make of a car


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,849 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    Mazda do not have a great track record with making their own diesel engines. If you don't actually need a diesel then you would be better off with a petrol one.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,328 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    swanie29 wrote: »
    Do you mean that the .madza are a bad make of a car
    Their Diesel engines in the last 18 years or so have had poor reliability bar their newest 1.5.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Their Diesel engines in the last 18 years or so have had poor reliability bar their newest 1.5.
    I had been reading that there 2.2 was meant to be good


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 958 ✭✭✭trabpc


    swanie29 wrote: »
    I had been reading that there 2.2 was meant to be good

    You may have read wrong. it's not the clutch I'd be worried about in that model. Personally I'd avoid the Mazda 2.2d but I would look at the petrols.

    No turbo so one thing less to go wrong.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,456 ✭✭✭The high horse brigade


    swanie29 wrote: »
    I had been reading that there 2.2 was meant to be good

    Diesels are absolutely fine for proper driving, no good for the short hop stop start in towns and cities. It's all the emissions bullsh1t they've enforced and added. The DPF collects carbon in the exhaust and sets it on fire (oxides it) every few hundred k. This is called a DPF regeneration. You also have an EGR valve putting burnt fumes back into the engine to burn them again. Then to improve emissions manufactures have been fitting undersized seals to allow for less friction in the engine, this causes other issues. They've really ruined diesels, which are supposed to be a solid work horse.

    I have a Mazda 6 for 3 years but we are not doing short hops with plenty of good motorway journeys. If you're doing short hops failed DPF regens ie stopping before it's finished let's diesel leak down by the piston into the oil causing the oil to rise. Theres is an upper mark on the dip stick you need to keep an eye on. I usual change oil at 10-12k miles, last time I didn't get to service it until 13k and was well below the mark. YMMV it's the main thing to keep an eye on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭swanie29


    Diesels are absolutely fine for proper driving, no good for the short hop stop start in towns and cities. It's all the emissions bullsh1t they've enforced and added. The DPF collects carbon in the exhaust and sets it on fire (oxides it) every few hundred k. This is called a DPF regeneration. You also have an EGR valve putting burnt fumes back into the engine to burn them again. Then to improve emissions manufactures have been fitting undersized seals to allow for less friction in the engine, this causes other issues. They've really ruined diesels, which are supposed to be a solid work horse.

    I have a Mazda 6 for 3 years but we are not doing short hops with plenty of good motorway journeys. If you're doing short hops failed DPF regens ie stopping before it's finished let's diesel leak down by the piston into the oil causing the oil to rise. Theres is an upper mark on the dip stick you need to keep an eye on. I usual change oil at 10-12k miles, last time I didn't get to service it until 13k and was well below the mark. YMMV it's the main thing to keep an eye on
    I do about 50 miles a day up and down m50 I have a 1.5 diesel quashai but something that is not dragging and better for fuel consumption


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,456 ✭✭✭The high horse brigade


    swanie29 wrote: »
    I do about 50 miles a day up and down m50 I have a 1.5 diesel quashai but something that is not dragging and better for fuel consumption

    You will be fine with a diesel Mazda then so. Most who have problems are buying/being sold an unsuitable car or are buying a diesel for the cheap tax. You have to consider buying second hand if the previous owner was doing short runs and diluting the oil continually, something to be aware of.


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