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Stove VS Half job of New Windows for keeping warm

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  • 07-02-2019 11:14am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭


    Hey folks,
    I'm posting on behalf of somebody else who wants to improve the warmth of their house. They've already done some insulation work in the attic and cavity walls through the warmer home scheme, but their 35 year old single pane windows and open fireplace aren't doing much at keeping any heat generated, in the house itself.

    They have gotten a quote (info here: https://i.imgur.com/1AzkTPo.jpg) to replace all the windows and a back door on the house, but they can't afford the full job now, so they are thinking to just replace 3 of the 8 windows that need replacing, the ones from the rooms they use the most.

    I'm thinking this may have as much of an effect on heat retention as having 8 open windows in a house and closing only 3 of them, that you still have 5 the warm air will escape through and will do very little in terms of keeping the place warm.

    I've gotten some advice before with regards to replacing the open fire and back boiler and the best solution was to go with a clearview stove and combi boiler. To get this done together will also cost a few thousand, but the problem is the person isn't comfortable with having gas in the house.

    Would doing only 3/8 windows be a complete waste of time? Would a stove be a wiser investment if they can afford it now? Also, how does the quote for the windows and labour look above?

    Any feedback would be great!


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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,007 ✭✭✭s7ryf3925pivug


    A stove is better for heating a specific room than heating your hot water.
    New regulations are likely to come into force in a couple of years that many stoves won't comply with.
    If getting a stove get a high end wood burning stove which doesn't emit high levels of pm2.5 - tiny particulate that is very unhealthy to inhale. Stoves can emit very high levels of it. In terms of investment a lot of stoves will not comply with regulations that are likely to come into force in a couple of years regarding this.


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks for your reply :)

    I've heeded some very good advice on a stove/water heating set up previously from another thread which suggested to keep the stove separate from heating the water, my post above may have been unclear, but I mean that the combi boiler is gas powered, this will give instant hot water, then the stove will be used for heating the living areas. The combi boiler could then also heat the rads up pretty quick. Unfortunately the home owner isn't keen on having gas for safety reasons.

    I haven't heard of these new regulations as it's been a while since I looked into it previously, but I'm guessing clearview stoves will be well future proofed from what I've learned about them previously.


    The dilemma the home owner has now is whether or not spending money on 3 out of 8 windows, will have any affect on heat retention, I don't think it will and think it'd be better to either put the money towards a stove/combi boiler, or else just keep saving for all 8 windows and the back door.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 42 an_fathach


    cormie wrote: »
    Thanks for your reply :)

    I've heeded some very good advice on a stove/water heating set up previously from another thread which suggested to keep the stove separate from heating the water, my post above may have been unclear, but I mean that the combi boiler is gas powered, this will give instant hot water, then the stove will be used for heating the living areas. The combi boiler could then also heat the rads up pretty quick. Unfortunately the home owner isn't keen on having gas for safety reasons.

    I haven't heard of these new regulations as it's been a while since I looked into it previously, but I'm guessing clearview stoves will be well future proofed from what I've learned about them previously.


    The dilemma the home owner has now is whether or not spending money on 3 out of 8 windows, will have any affect on heat retention, I don't think it will and think it'd be better to either put the money towards a stove/combi boiler, or else just keep saving for all 8 windows and the back door.
    I hope people who know more than me will comment but it is very likely that cheaper improvements are possible. Windows are usually the least cost-efficient improvement. Perhaps a survey would be worth it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks for the input. The more affordable improvements have been done such as insulation, but I reckon a lot of the heat is still escaping through the 35+ year old single pane windows, but I reckon a lot would still escape if only 3 of the 8 windows are replaced :confused:


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 42 an_fathach


    cormie wrote: »
    Thanks for the input. The more affordable improvements have been done such as insulation, but I reckon a lot of the heat is still escaping through the 35+ year old single pane windows, but I reckon a lot would still escape if only 3 of the 8 windows are replaced :confused:


    Sure, but there are so many factors to bear in mind. You might have a thick layer of insulation but missing in parts or you might have a lot of wind blowing through the house in gaps in the walls aruod pipes.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Poor heat retention on older houses is usually always related to drafts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks for the input folks. Maybe a survey would be a good idea. Is there any services that would do a proper inspection and be able to advise? I know the BER people do something similar, but I've heard it may be a little basic and it completely depends on the inspector too? Is there anything a little more exact, maybe using infrared or something to check problem areas?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 42 an_fathach


    cormie wrote: »
    Thanks for the input folks. Maybe a survey would be a good idea. Is there any services that would do a proper inspection and be able to advise? I know the BER people do something similar, but I've heard it may be a little basic and it completely depends on the inspector too? Is there anything a little more exact, maybe using infrared or something to check problem areas?
    What you want is a thermal camera survey and blower test by someone who had worked on 1970s houses before. No need for a BER, but of course they could provide that too.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    an_fathach wrote: »
    What you want is a thermal camera survey and blower test by someone who had worked on 1970s houses before. No need for a BER, but of course they could provide that too.

    First I would make sure you topped the attic up to max, properly done as very cheap upgrade

    Check around house for any gaps/etc that could let in drafts and fix

    Stove will provide great heat so you could do a standard wood stove to keep cost down and that will produce more heat

    Replacing 3 windows, you will probably install from inside so will need to replanted and paint, messy job so better off doing once

    You could spend the guts of 1k on surveys and they will tell you to replace windows and doors


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Why not an oil boiler?


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 42 an_fathach


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    First I would make sure you topped the attic up to max, properly done as very cheap upgrade

    Check around house for any gaps/etc that could let in drafts and fix

    Stove will provide great heat so you could do a standard wood stove to keep cost down and that will produce more heat

    Replacing 3 windows, you will probably install from inside so will need to replanted and paint, messy job so better off doing once

    You could spend the guts of 1k on surveys and they will tell you to replace windows and doors


    You think so? They said they already did insulation but I was concerned about gaps and draughtiness.



    I am an amateur at this but I bought a cheap thermal camera and it is truly startling how many cold spots in the fibreglass insulation became visible. I dont know much they chilled the house but in my case fixing these is a lot simpler job than new windows. I think doors are a massive one but they are really pricey to replace.


    For the OP you might be able to deduce how they should proceed by asking is the house really really cold or just a bit? If its really cold than it probably is more than the windows and doors that is causing the problem.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    an_fathach wrote: »
    You think so? They said they already did insulation but I was concerned about gaps and draughtiness.



    I am an amateur at this but I bought a cheap thermal camera and it is truly startling how many cold spots in the fibreglass insulation became visible. I dont know much they chilled the house but in my case fixing these is a lot simpler job than new windows. I think doors are a massive one but they are really pricey to replace.


    For the OP you might be able to deduce how they should proceed by asking is the house really really cold or just a bit? If its really cold than it probably is more than the windows and doors that is causing the problem.


    How much is thermal image camera going to cost? 500-1000 and then you mentioned blower test, another 500-1000

    Waste of money, that could be nearly 2k of budget gone on a test to tell you to buy doors and windows.....maybe 1k but still how many windows will you get for 1k

    I would do infrared when you have all the obvious jobs done and house is still cold to see drafts


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    First I would make sure you topped the attic up to max, properly done as very cheap upgrade

    Check around house for any gaps/etc that could let in drafts and fix

    Stove will provide great heat so you could do a standard wood stove to keep cost down and that will produce more heat

    Replacing 3 windows, you will probably install from inside so will need to replanted and paint, messy job so better off doing once

    You could spend the guts of 1k on surveys and they will tell you to replace windows and doors

    A 1970s suspended timber floor house is designed to function with gaps.
    If you block everything off you will have a warm wet house followed quickly by a warm rotten house.

    You only need new doors if the old ones are drafty, sure new onesv will have better r values, but who cares one a house like this.

    Bang for buck is what you need OP, renting a thermal imagining camera would seem like a logical step for me id you are not going to pay any expert to do it for you.


    DIY means you do this stuff yourself, not that you ignore how the professionals would do it and make it up yourself.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    GreeBo wrote: »
    A 1970s suspended timber floor house is designed to function with gaps.
    If you block everything off you will have a warm wet house followed quickly by a warm rotten house.

    You only need new doors if the old ones are drafty, sure new onesv will have better r values, but who cares one a house like this.

    Bang for buck is what you need OP, renting a thermal imagining camera would seem like a logical step for me id you are not going to pay any expert to do it for you.


    DIY means you do this stuff yourself, not that you ignore how the professionals would do it and make it up yourself.


    :rolleyes:




    You should watch this :p








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    #s3gt_translate_tooltip_mini { display: none !important; }[/COLOR]


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    :rolleyes:




    You should watch this :p








    [COLOR=inherit !important]


    #s3gt_translate_tooltip_mini { display: none !important; }[/COLOR]

    I said "professional" if you employ cowboys to do work in your home then that's your issue and nothing to do with my advice.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF



    Shefwedfan & GreeBo

    Leave it there thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks again everyone, I'm a little confused now with the discussion and disagreements above now though.

    So to close off all the drafts in a 1970's house may prevent necessary circulation that will cause damp and all the problems that go with it? It's a red brick, concrete walled semi detached 4 bed house in an estate if that makes any difference? I'm guessing the 1st floor is suspended by timber trusses.

    There's phones with thermal imaging now and everything: https://www.catphones.com/en-us/cat-s61-smartphone/

    But obviously spending that kinda money wouldn't make sense. Also, what's a blower test? Would a thermal test be done in line with a blower test? I'm guessing a professional would be able to do both at once, so might cut down the cost? Observing cold spots through a live thermal camera doesn't sound like something too complicated or something that has any ongoing costs for the surveyor, so maybe it's possible to find someone to do both even cheaper than €500? Could probably be done in less than an hour? (That's me throwing out a wild guess so don't shoot me :pac:)

    But even without gaps or drafts around the windows, would the fact the windows are single as opposed to double or triple glazed not be having a huge effect in itself? Also, how does the quote from the window supplier sound above? Reasonable? Would it be worth saving for longer and going for triple glazed in this situation too I wonder?

    Can a combi boiler be fueled by oil? I thought they only worked off gas? That would need an oil tank in the back and everything then I'm guessing, which wouldn't be the end of the world I guess. But with a stove going in without a back boiler (as suggested) and without the open fire heating the back boiler, making the back boiler redundant, the only way to heat the rads without a new boiler going in, would be with electricity, which may end up having high ongoing costs?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Thermal imaging will show heat loss in house - overkill and waste of money at this stage of renovation
    Blower test will show how air tight house is - overkill and waste of money at this stage

    As I said above you could spend up to 2k doing both those tests and you will end up knowing you need to buy new windows and doors.

    If you are concerned about air ventilation in house then get trickle vents in windows, what is what I done in my last house which was similar to yours.

    Double will increase the heat held in the house, so less heat loss per hour. You could run some air tightness tape around the window while you are at it, it is cheap and will just stop those extra drafts. Some companies will do triple on cheap if putting in double so might be worth asking

    If cavity you could look longer term at pumping the walls etc

    A combi boiler is normall just a gas boiler which also heats the water at the same time. Not a dual fuel boiler. https://www.worcester-bosch.ie/archive/boilers/what-is-a-combi-boiler


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks again for the reply :)

    Seems very expensive for what's probably a few hours work including driving there and back, but that again is just me guessing and maybe there's far more involved in such tests? :)

    I think the walls may have already been pumped, I'm not sure exactly.

    Are you suggesting air tightness tape on the existing windows, or when the new windows go in as an added measure?

    What would you consider cheap for triple compared to double glaze? +5/10/20% of overall cost?

    Is a combi boiler possible to power from oil, or it has to be gas I wonder?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    cormie wrote: »
    Thanks again for the reply :)

    Seems very expensive for what's probably a few hours work including driving there and back, but that again is just me guessing and maybe there's far more involved in such tests? :)

    I think the walls may have already been pumped, I'm not sure exactly.

    Are you suggesting air tightness tape on the existing windows, or when the new windows go in as an added measure?

    What would you consider cheap for triple compared to double glaze? +5/10/20% of overall cost?

    Is a combi boiler possible to power from oil, or it has to be gas I wonder?


    If the walls are pumped you should be able to see drill marks in the walls....if anytime recent you will see them close up....


    Air tightness tape when you install the new windows, as standard it doesn't get installed but you can run it quickly around, it will stop any small drafts around the window


    What I mean is if you are swapping to double ask how much for uplift, I got some additional doors and sliding door done recently for draft lobby and close off sun room. I got an upgrade to triple for free :P of course it wasn't free but when I priced around it was a good deal



    Both oil and gas can be combi boilers. Have you a current boiler installed? or is everything heated off the fire and back boiler?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks again for all the help.

    I'll ask about the walls being pumped, I think there may have been drilling done from outside so there's a chance they were pumped from the outside.

    I would have thought new windows wouldn't have any drafts without needing airtightness tape, but thanks for the heads up.

    If they decide to go with windows, I'll suggest trying to haggle for triple and maybe for air tightness tape to be installed too?

    That's cool, I didn't realise you can have a combi fueled by oil. Maybe that will be a better option then, a new clearview stove and an oil powered combi boiler for water and rads.

    There's a water tank in the attic, and then just the hot water cylinder in the hotpress. Then there's a back boiler behind the fireplace which you can flick a switch beside the fire place to then heat the rads I think, so I guess it would be removing old fireplace and back boiler, and replacing this with a stove, and then a combi boiler in the kitchen to vent out the back or side wall I guess?


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,030 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    cormie wrote: »
    I would have thought new windows wouldn't have any drafts without needing airtightness tape
    It's not the windows themselves that are being taped, it's the junctions between the walls and the window frames. So yes, they do.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,827 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    cormie wrote: »
    Thanks for the input folks. Maybe a survey would be a good idea. Is there any services that would do a proper inspection and be able to advise? I know the BER people do something similar, but I've heard it may be a little basic and it completely depends on the inspector too? Is there anything a little more exact, maybe using infrared or something to check problem areas?
    You need a heat loss survey of the house (includes ti and blower door). Without it you are just guessing. Should cost around 500.


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Installing a new boiler if your house is a sieve is throwing good money after bad. You'll heat the garden more than you are today and it will cost you more.

    You can make the house air tight without compromising ventilation. The ventilation will be needed outside of the air tight envelope to prevent the timbers from rotting.

    You will of course need some ventilation within the envelope also to prevent damp. That's where trickle vents etc come in but they won't do anything for your joists.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,619 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Regards doing 3 of 8 windows are the 3 all on the ground floor as part of the living/kitchen area? If they are maybe that would make a difference as heat rises? So the living/kitchen area would be warm with the three windows upgraded and a stove installed. Not an expert on this, just wondering what would be conventional wisdom as I'm thinking of doing ground floor only windows myself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks again everyone :)

    The windows being replaced are split between up and downstairs I think... maybe big one in the kitchen and big one in the living room and then one in the main bedroom.

    Thanks Lumen, I just would have thought the installers would have taken care of all that with whatever they use to fill around the new windows and that if it's an important step of draft prevention, most fitters would do an important step like that without the customer needing to snag it themselves after?

    Greebo, thanks, you've lost me a little with the ventilation vs airtight and trickle as a solution to ventilation but not helping with keeping joists dry... what would you suggest here?

    Micktheman, 500 is a lot more affordable than €2,000 alright so it might be a good investment if it's done properly and they can be properly advised what will help most and where they should spend their money.

    If anyone can recommend anyone who could do a full survey with TI (guessing that's thermal infrared?) and blower for a good price, I'd appreciate it :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    cormie wrote: »
    Thanks again everyone :)

    The windows being replaced are split between up and downstairs I think... maybe big one in the kitchen and big one in the living room and then one in the main bedroom.

    Thanks Lumen, I just would have thought the installers would have taken care of all that with whatever they use to fill around the new windows and that if it's an important step of draft prevention, most fitters would do an important step like that without the customer needing to snag it themselves after?


    Unless you ask the installer will not do it.....

    cormie wrote: »
    Greebo, thanks, you've lost me a little with the ventilation vs airtight and trickle as a solution to ventilation but not helping with keeping joists dry... what would you suggest here?

    Micktheman, 500 is a lot more affordable than €2,000 alright so it might be a good investment if it's done properly and they can be properly advised what will help most and where they should spend their money.

    If anyone can recommend anyone who could do a full survey with TI (guessing that's thermal infrared?) and blower for a good price, I'd appreciate it :)


    If you can find someone to do full survey including thermal image and blower test for 500 quid, please share....


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    cormie wrote: »

    Greebo, thanks, you've lost me a little with the ventilation vs airtight and trickle as a solution to ventilation but not helping with keeping joists dry... what would you suggest here?

    /edit
    Might be a good idea to have a cup of tea on standby! :)


    So assuming you had a perfectly sealed living area within the external envelope of your house you have two distinct areas. The warm area where you live and the cold area thats outside the living space but within the house structure.

    The warm area is actually wet and warm as cooking, cleaning, breathing, etc all produce water vapour. If you dont replace this or vent it you will get mould issues in the house. Nowadays (typically in new builds) people use MHRV (Mechanical Heat Recovery Ventilation) to swap warm wet air for warm dry air. Other than this the options are to allow warm air to be replaced be cooler dry air from outside.

    The other area is the cold area within the house, in your case this would be the attic and under your suspended floors. These areas need ventilation for similar reasons, there is water vapour or in some cases water that needs to dry. Thats why your attic is vented to the outside and is (should be!) significantly colder than the rest of your house at the moment. There is literally wind blowing in under the fascia/soffit and exiting via roof vents. This is keeping all the timber within the attic nice and dry and you dont care that its cold because all the insulation and the airtight membrane are keeping that separate from your living space. This is why you need to be very careful with spotlights upstairs, if they are not fitted properly they are acting like little chimneys and pulling all the warm air from upstairs into your attic and also allowing the cold air into the rooms.

    Its similar under the suspended floor. If you take up your floor boards you probably have plain old dirt down there, anywhere from a couple of inches to a couple of feet below the boards. This ground will be damp unless its ventilated as the ground, especially in Ireland is naturally damp. If you look around the outside of your house you will see numerous vents just about the ground, these are to ventilate this space and prevent the joists and flooring from rotting. Problem is that, like your attic, you have an airtight barrier and then insulation, this ventilation is also ventilating the warm space within the house.


    Regarding your window/door install. Its massively depends on who is doing it. Joes Window Co wont even be aware of thermal bridging and taping of seams and even if you ask them they wont have a clue and wont do it.
    Even going with one of the more reputable companies might not make any difference, your house might not even have a vapour barrier in situ for them to tape to!

    This is why I think you are better off spending money on a survey (a good survey). Sure it will cost you, but you will have the results of this survey for the lifetime of the house and can make knowledge led improvements to your house as and when you can afford them. Think of it as an investment.

    Think how you will feel if you from 5K on new windows and the house is no warmer? What then, do the rest of the windows and doors, will that make any difference? It wont if they were never the biggest culprit to begin with!


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,835 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks a lot for such a detailed explanation!! :D

    So the roof is vented to allow air under the fascia/soffit, but you're saying this would usually pass through above the insulation on the roof, just to keep the wood in the roof itself dry, then it passes out through vents on top of the roof itself under the tiles say?

    The attic is certainly colder than the rest of the house and there's no spotlights fitted, just one regular light in each room.

    I've noticed in other new builds I've been in, that the temp in the attic is not a lot different to the rest of the house, whereas the drop in the house I'm referring to above, is definitely noticeable. But you're saying even a well insulated attic, it would be normal for a noticeable drop and this doesn't necessarily mean there's bad insulation and heat retention in the house?

    With regards the suspended floors, I thought the initial mention of suspended floors above, was referring to the floor between ground floor and 1st floor, but now I'm thinking you mean the floor of the actual ground floor? I think I've seen what you're talking about in some houses, where under the floor boards there's a big empty space, however this house, once you take up the flooring downstairs (have seen both kitchen and sitting room wood floor removed) it's just concrete, so the flooring isn't being suspended from what I know? I've actually attached some photos of flooring in the kitchen taken up, as well as the outside of the house. I can't see any vents going under the floor, but maybe there are in other spots?

    Definitely makes sense to get a survey done alright, but the homeowner is limited with a tight budget (hence only being able to afford 30% of the windows required), so if a proper survey could be done for €500, yeah I reckon that might be a wise option, but if it's going to cost much more, then they aren't going to have money to make any improvements and all they'll be left with for the foreseeable future is knowledge of what needs improvement :P

    They did get some work done through the warmer home scheme, but this doesn't cover windows anymore as people were apparently going way over budget.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    cormie wrote: »
    Thanks a lot for such a detailed explanation!! :D

    So the roof is vented to allow air under the fascia/soffit, but you're saying this would usually pass through above the insulation on the roof, just to keep the wood in the roof itself dry, then it passes out through vents on top of the roof itself under the tiles say?

    The attic is certainly colder than the rest of the house and there's no spotlights fitted, just one regular light in each room.

    I've noticed in other new builds I've been in, that the temp in the attic is not a lot different to the rest of the house, whereas the drop in the house I'm referring to above, is definitely noticeable. But you're saying even a well insulated attic, it would be normal for a noticeable drop and this doesn't necessarily mean there's bad insulation and heat retention in the house?

    With regards the suspended floors, I thought the initial mention of suspended floors above, was referring to the floor between ground floor and 1st floor, but now I'm thinking you mean the floor of the actual ground floor? I think I've seen what you're talking about in some houses, where under the floor boards there's a big empty space, however this house, once you take up the flooring downstairs (have seen both kitchen and sitting room wood floor removed) it's just concrete, so the flooring isn't being suspended from what I know? I've actually attached some photos of flooring in the kitchen taken up, as well as the outside of the house. I can't see any vents going under the floor, but maybe there are in other spots?

    Definitely makes sense to get a survey done alright, but the homeowner is limited with a tight budget (hence only being able to afford 30% of the windows required), so if a proper survey could be done for €500, yeah I reckon that might be a wise option, but if it's going to cost much more, then they aren't going to have money to make any improvements and all they'll be left with for the foreseeable future is knowledge of what needs improvement :P

    They did get some work done through the warmer home scheme, but this doesn't cover windows anymore as people were apparently going way over budget.

    Ah, well it depends on if you have a warm or cold attic.
    Older houses, unless they have had a retro, have a cold attic space.
    This means the insulation is on the attic floor so its keeping the heat in the rooms below and not letting the heat into the attic. (Hence the water tank and pipes have their own insulation, to stop them freezing)
    Some newer houses have warm attic spaces, where the insulation is between the rafters (in the ceiling) rather than the joists (in the floor). There is still ventilation above this insulation and below the exterior of the roof for the same ventilation reasons. So yes, assuming your attic is designed to be a cold space (insulation on the floor) you want the attic to be cold, almost the same temp as outside, otherwise you are losing heat into the attic. In winter you want your outside roof tiles to hold the frost/snow as long as possible as this means you are not melting it with your heating bills!

    From the looks of your photos you dont have a suspended floor, you have a concrete plinth. This is good from a draft point of view as concrete floors wont be ventilated (and your pics indeed dont show any vents), but the question is now, is there insulation under this concrete! If there isnt then this will be a massive cold bridge into your home. (The laws of physics mean that heat will always transfer to colder places to reach equilibrium. This is why A/C is so expensive, you spend lots of money cooling the room down but physics keeps trying to warm it up again.)

    An uninsulated concrete base means your heating is constantly trying to heat up the concrete which in turn is trying to heat up the ground. Heating an insulated concrete base is great as it will retain the heat for a long time and slowly release it back into the house as needed (a heat sink).

    My point on the survey being an investment is, assuming the home is owned by the occupier, once you have the results of the survey you have them forever. Even if it means that you get the survey this year and cant afford to start works until next year, you know the works are the correct thing to spend money on.

    What work did they get done do you know? Is it just the attic and wall insulation? Attic will have deffo helped. If it was me and money was super tight, I would tackle the open fire first. That is worse than having an open window in your house as a chimney is *designed* to suck hot air out of the room. You can get inflatable baffles etc that are DIY install if you dont want to just brick the whole thing up.

    BTW, Don't get me wrong, new windows and doors will be lovely, it just might not make the house any warmer.

    (Obviously if the windows and doors are poorly fitted at the moment and drafty it makes sense to do some remedial work, but this could be as simple as installing some foam strips for €5)


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