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Krone 1250 - Opinions Please

  • 14-06-2018 11:40AM
    #1
    Thekeencyclist
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 233 ✭✭


    Hi All, 
    Just looking for some relative general feedback on a Krone 1250. So I have been running a 130 now for the past 10 years. Baler has served us well and is still in good condition for its age etc and is a great baler when all goes well with it but am now thinking about possibly upgrading. Current tractor is about 95HP and has no issues baling a solid bale with the 130.
    Main reasons for upgrading would be to mainly get to something a little more modern, a wide pick up (less blockages hopefully), and to avail of net wrap.
    From owning a 130 currently, I would prefer to go to a 1250 due to knowledge of been somewhat easy to repair etc
    My main area of concern is would the 95HP be sufficient? (I googled the specifications for a 1250 and it is saying 36KW / 50HP is needed)
    I think all 1250's are chopper balers? - please correct me if I am mistaken here, but can the knives been turned off and dropped out of the way? If so wouldnt this free up power, right now I am not fussy about chopping the grass but the plan is to get a bigger horsepower tractor in the next couple of years anyway so this would then enable chopping if needed.
    All opinions and feedback appreciated, Thanks!


Comments

  • #2
    6480
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 725 ✭✭✭6480


    Thekeencyclist wrote: »
    Hi All, 
    Just looking for some relative general feedback on a Krone 1250. So I have been running a 130 now for the past 10 years. Baler has served us well and is still in good condition for its age etc and is a great baler when all goes well with it but am now thinking about possibly upgrading. Current tractor is about 95HP and has no issues baling a solid bale with the 130.
    Main reasons for upgrading would be to mainly get to something a little more modern, a wide pick up (less blockages hopefully), and to avail of net wrap.
    From owning a 130 currently, I would prefer to go to a 1250 due to knowledge of been somewhat easy to repair etc
    My main area of concern is would the 95HP be sufficient? (I googled the specifications for a 1250 and it is saying 36KW / 50HP is needed)
    I think all 1250's are chopper balers? - please correct me if I am mistaken here, but can the knives been turned off and dropped out of the way? If so wouldnt this free up power, right now I am not fussy about chopping the grass but the plan is to get a bigger horsepower tractor in the next couple of years anyway so this would then enable chopping if needed.
    All opinions and feedback appreciated, Thanks!

    Had one from new
    great baler probaly the most underrated baler out there. Easy to power maintain service best chopper baler out there . Often chopped in 30 foot rows of grass . And easy to keep it maintained . Has a locked door . Makes a small looking bale but it will out weigh any other bale. Net does give bother but if its set right it wil work . I could master the 1250 i had it would never miss a bale


  • #3
    shot_ov_a
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 44 ✭shot_ov_a


    we moved from a 130 to a rounpack 1250.. roundpack is alot quicker to take grass and very simple to use once net is set up properly.. ours was a disaster until we got it set up also i find with ours if you keep the grass coming in as you launch the net it helps alot and have brake set correctly.. have ours on 110hp and to be honest if your working hilly ground you know its there.. baled with 85hp before and it will work it but speed is well down.. as said above there a very under rated baler.. anyone that has one that is set up rite wont have a bad word to say


  • #4
    GrasstoMilk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,407 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Have one here from new. Super baler!
    Keep the chains well oiled and the netter free of dust and the bearings on the spreader bar changed every year.
    Ours has over 30k bales on her now and we're in the middle of changing the chamber chains on her ATM, our own fault really oiler went wrong a few seasons ago and we didn't keep enough oil on them- just check the one you're buying that they aren't worn, there is tensioners behind the panel on the back door that you tighten up as they wear, chains cost about 900€ and then any bearings you need after that aswell
    We ran it with 95hp for a long time with no issues. Keep the knives sharp and you'll have seriously well chopped bales.
    The biggest issue ours has is the netter but as said before if you set it up right it works very well


  • #5
    Thekeencyclist
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 233 ✭✭Thekeencyclist


    Thanks all, all positive feedback there and sounds like i would be okay running a 1250 on 95hp, land is mainly flat, no major hills. I wudnt worry about maybe having to drive a touch slower, the main advantage to me would be less chance of getting a blockage which can consume a lot of time depending on how bad it can be! I was faced with a 90minute job clearing a blockage last week - not good for the blood pressure 😂.

    Also am i right in saying that the knives can be disabled which would reduce the power needed??


  • #6
    GrasstoMilk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,407 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Thekeencyclist wrote: »
    Thanks all, all positive feedback there and sounds like i would be okay running a 1250 on 95hp, land is mainly flat, no major hills. I wudnt worry about maybe having to drive a touch slower, the main advantage to me would be less chance of getting a blockage which can consume a lot of time depending on how bad it can be! I was faced with a 90minute job clearing a blockage last week - not good for the blood pressure 😂.

    Also am i right in saying that the knives can be disabled which would reduce the power needed??
    Dad is the man that drives the baler here and tbh I could count on one hand the times it has blocked in the 15 years we've had it!

    There is 3 different options for the knives, all up, half up or none at all but you'd run her with all up no bother. Especially if they are sharp


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  • #7
    shot_ov_a
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 44 ✭shot_ov_a


    Thekeencyclist wrote: »
    Thanks all, all positive feedback there and sounds like i would be okay running a 1250 on 95hp, land is mainly flat, no major hills. I wudnt worry about maybe having to drive a touch slower, the main advantage to me would be less chance of getting a blockage which can consume a lot of time depending on how bad it can be! I was faced with a 90minute job clearing a blockage last week - not good for the blood pressure ��.

    Also am i right in saying that the knives can be disabled which would reduce the power needed??

    ah yeah that used to break my heart aswel when it would happen alright.. only ever blocked the roundpack once and it was my own fault.. not half as bad to get out.. u can rewind the rotor manually and that usually does the trick.. there a big difference in the amount of grass it will take compared to the 130 which to be fair at the time were a great little baler aswel


  • #8
    Kral101
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 ✭Kral101


    Lads, bit late replying to this thread but I only came across this now, I see ye saying how the netting needs to be set up on the RP 1250

    last summer we were baling with our RP 1250 and for the first summer ever we had constant and awful trouble with the netting. Would constantly get wrapped around the rubber roller. Previous years it would happen once every 100 bales or so, but last year it would be every bale on some occasions.

    Nothing had been adjusted from previous years, would ye have any advice on what has gone wrong?

    We have had the baler for 7-8 years now.


  • #9
    Thekeencyclist
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 233 ✭✭Thekeencyclist


    Ok......so I purchased a 1250 Multi Cut with the Comfort Controls box. Just a couple of Q's that I hope can be answered here....

    1 - Am I correct in saying that the Cutting Blades are only Engaged / Disengaged using the Comfort Control box and that the # of blades to be used for cutting cannot be selected using the Control Box?? i.e. - the # of blades to be used should be "manually" pre-selected by rotating the dial on the right hand side of the baler.

    2 - Not sure if I am doing anything wrong but when I disengage the blades, approx 2-3 inches of the blades remain up. Any suggestions on what might be the cause of this?? (I will be getting under the baler tonight to see if I can see anything preventing them from fully dropping out of the way)

    TIA


  • #10
    Thekeencyclist
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 233 ✭✭Thekeencyclist


    Kral101 wrote: »
    Lads, bit late replying to this thread but I only came across this now, I see ye saying how the netting needs to be set up on the RP 1250

    last summer we were baling with our RP 1250 and for the first summer ever we had constant and awful trouble with the netting. Would constantly get wrapped around the rubber roller. Previous years it would happen once every 100 bales or so, but last year it would be every bale on some occasions.

    Nothing had been adjusted from previous years, would ye have any advice on what has gone wrong?

    We have had the baler for 7-8 years now.


    Place where I bought the 1250 is very knowledgeable when it comes to Krone machines. Not sure what net wrap u use, but he was recommending that Novatex works best with Krone balers. It is apparently a slightly thicker wrap and he says by using it, most problems that can be seen will eliminated.

    The above might be of some help......


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