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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Thanks Forge83,
    Is there any way around the vent in room?
    There is a lot of talk of room sealed stove? Or on passive certified stove. It does not make any sense to put in fire and dig big hole on wall..
    Plenty of air through the MVHR and if stove has external air supply...

    Thanks again

    Technically I don't think there is a way around it. I think it's aimed more towards the safety aspect of removing possible carbon monoxide rather than ventilation for thestove.
    I advise people to choose their BER accessor early and discuss it with them.
    Sensible BER accessors may be more flexible with you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    mrsWhippy wrote: »
    So are you saying that an external air stove is not necessarily room sealed?

    Correct.
    Just as an example. A Henley Yale 8kw has external air. It can be used in a new build Irish house and meet building regulations. It cannot be used in a passive certified house as it is not technically room sealed due to it having a riddle bar grate.
    There are very few passive houses being built hence why most shops/Installers would not know the difference.
    A lot of people building houses use the term passive but what they really mean is Irish building regs air tight. There is a massive difference.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    Any solid fuel stove needs to open door to refuel so is never room sealed.
    Unlike gas oil or pellet. These stoves remain closed at all times during operation.

    For example if you go to refuel with a stove that had external air feed and the flow of air from outside is greater than the pressure In room, then the excess flow will be pushed into room.
    So that is why a open vent is still required in building regs to the best of my knowledge.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 673 ✭✭✭mrsWhippy


    rpmcs wrote: »
    Any solid fuel stove needs to open door to refuel so is never room sealed.
    Unlike gas oil or pellet. These stoves remain closed at all times during operation.

    For example if you go to refuel with a stove that had external air feed and the flow of air from outside is greater than the pressure In room, then the excess flow will be pushed into room.
    So that is why a open vent is still required in building regs to the best of my knowledge.

    I really hope I'm taking this up wrong...

    So I'm building a house this year. Aiming for airtight values <1 and mechanical ventilation (because really, putting drafty holes in the walls of my house doesn't make sense)

    Provisional BER requires A2W HP and multi fuel stove to meet regs. OK fine.

    Now are you saying because of this stove, I actually have to put a permanent wall vent in my sealed house???

    But if I don't have the stove, I won't meet the renewable regs they are hoping to improve in the first place?

    <frantically googling>


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 673 ✭✭✭mrsWhippy


    Can anyone comment on this stove please?

    http://henleystoves.com/sherwood-5kw-2/

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    mrsWhippy wrote: »
    Can anyone comment on this stove please?

    http://henleystoves.com/sherwood-5kw-2/

    Thanks

    New stove model only released in the last month.
    Too early to review really.


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,766 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Had a plumber in looking at the place today regards getting an inset boiler stove in. He said we probably don't need a flue liner....this doesn't sound right to me? Likely one of the Stratford Eco Boiler's we'll be getting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Mickeroo wrote: »
    Had a plumber in looking at the place today regards getting an inset boiler stove in. He said we probably don't need a flue liner....this doesn't sound right to me? Likely one of the Stratford Eco Boiler's we'll be getting.

    I could be hung, drawn and quartered for saying this in a plumbing forum but here goes.
    Not every plumber is qualified to fit a boiler stove! I will only advise a Hetas qualified installer for a room heater stove and likewise will only advise a Hetas qualified plumber to fit a boiler stove. I am sure there are lots of good plumbers who dont have Hetas certification but at least you know they have had training in boiler stove installation if they have the certification.
    The only way to know for sure if your chimney needs a liner is a camera inspection. How does he know there isn't a crack in one of the pots?
    I find most people now will spend the extra €300-€400 on a liner for simple safety peace of mind.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 669 ✭✭✭sarahn11


    Hi Guys,

    Im looking for some advice on a stove install/heating upgrade:

    In the process of purchasing a 50s terraced house in Waterford City - have a small budget to upgrade heating before the winter, the rest of the upgrades to the house will happen early next year.

    Initially i was thinking of getting a 12kw boiler stove (Stanley) installed & hooked up to the already existing gas central heating (boiler will need some work also i would imagine) these works will use up the majority of the budget.

    Upon reading up, im now leaning towards spending the money on Attic insulation/External insulation/boiler upgrade and a smaller non boiler stove which we could upgrade next year when funds are more available. Currently there is a gas fire which will need to be removed & possibly work done to the fireplace to allow a stove to fit it.

    Just wondering what the majority would do in my situation? is it better to get the boiler stove in first or install the smaller one along with the insulation & boiler upgrades? Long term we do want the boiler stove for the heating/hot water so installing the smaller stove is just for this winter really.
    Also, does anyone have any recommendations for a company to do attic/external wall insulation/boiler upgrades in WAterford

    Thanks :cool:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,955 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    sarahn11 wrote: »
    Hi Guys,

    Im looking for some advice on a stove install/heating upgrade:

    In the process of purchasing a 50s terraced house in Waterford City - have a small budget to upgrade heating before the winter, the rest of the upgrades to the house will happen early next year.

    Initially i was thinking of getting a 12kw boiler stove (Stanley) installed & hooked up to the already existing gas central heating (boiler will need some work also i would imagine) these works will use up the majority of the budget.

    Upon reading up, im now leaning towards spending the money on Attic insulation/External insulation/boiler upgrade and a smaller non boiler stove which we could upgrade next year when funds are more available. Currently there is a gas fire which will need to be removed & possibly work done to the fireplace to allow a stove to fit it.

    Just wondering what the majority would do in my situation? is it better to get the boiler stove in first or install the smaller one along with the insulation & boiler upgrades? Long term we do want the boiler stove for the heating/hot water so installing the smaller stove is just for this winter really.
    Also, does anyone have any recommendations for a company to do attic/external wall insulation/boiler upgrades in WAterford

    Thanks :cool:

    This might be suited better to construction forum but depends on what mods want to do

    I have done a couple of refurbs so have a little bit of experience. PM if you want to discuss or we can keep on thread

    From the above are you planning on removing the gas boiler and replacing with Boiler stove? Is the current gas boiler on mains supply?

    As the house was built in 50's have you checked if copper or gun barrel installed?

    Do the walls have a cavity?

    How are the windows?

    Is the rooms big enough to look at insulated slabs?

    How is the wiring? is it the older wire?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 669 ✭✭✭sarahn11


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    This might be suited better to construction forum but depends on what mods want to do

    I have done a couple of refurbs so have a little bit of experience. PM if you want to discuss or we can keep on thread

    From the above are you planning on removing the gas boiler and replacing with Boiler stove? Is the current gas boiler on mains supply? - Was looking towards a Dual Fuel set up with the gas boiler being on the mains supply - the boiler is old so i would imagine that this will need to be upgraded - not sure if there is a back boiler already installed yet

    As the house was built in 50's have you checked if copper or gun barrel installed? - Did you mean copper pipes here? The Water tank is new enough and is copper as are the pipes around the tank - im unsure of the rest of the property- Didnt think of the pipes needing to be replaced

    Do the walls have a cavity? I'm unsure

    How are the windows? There is PVC double glaze in the rear but there are 3 windows to the front of the property that need to be upgraded to DBL glaze.

    Is the rooms big enough to look at insulated slabs? again unsure, its not a huge house so if its reducing the overall size of the rooms im not sure how that would fly with the OH :rolleyes:

    How is the wiring? is it the older wire? again im unsure, the house seems to have been kept well and it has an extension to the rear which was built recently enough

    Thanks for the reply Shefwedfan!

    Answers above. I suppose with the small budget i have, im just looking for the most bang for my buck to get us over the winter


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,955 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    sarahn11 wrote: »
    [/B]
    Thanks for the reply Shefwedfan!

    Answers above. I suppose with the small budget i have, im just looking for the most bang for my buck to get us over the winter
    If you have a BER report it will have some information in that which could point to some quick wins

    If looking for bang for your buck I would look at the following:

    • Attic insulation can be bought cheap and installed yourself
    • I would have a good look around house, you will probably find gaps etc letting in a gale, close them off and that will improve thing dramatically
    • Check current gas boiler and service if condenser boiler, if not condenser then replace with new boiler
    • Replace front windows
    • Check radiators to see if high efficient, replace if not
    • Replace gas fire with small stove
    • Check if cavity, pump cavity with insulation
    • External insulation is very high cost, but if house is small then trying to put in insulated slab might reduce room sizes too much
    Very high level...

    Really a dual stove for a small house is not going to help much. If you have a good boiler then you are better spending money to insulate. I think it would be money better spent....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 669 ✭✭✭sarahn11


    Thanks Shefwedfan - leaning that way about the insulation alright - think i will take your advice and sort the insulation out first and go with the smaller stove, no point in getting a big high effecticy boiler if all the heat generated is just being lost through the roof/walls/ holes between the doors!

    Thanks for the advice! :cool:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,955 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    sarahn11 wrote: »
    Thanks Shefwedfan - leaning that way about the insulation alright - think i will take your advice and sort the insulation out first and go with the smaller stove, no point in getting a big high effecticy boiler if all the heat generated is just being lost through the roof/walls/ holes between the doors!

    Thanks for the advice! :cool:

    Exactly. Some people might disagree but I have renovated a couple of house. You will be surprised with a little bit of insulation how quickly a house can heat up in comparison to house without insulation.

    As mentioned this is off topic for thread so if you want PM me feel free


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭epopnomis


    So ive a 50s house.. has a cavity but not pumped.. have heard negative things around cavity insulation in relation to damp... i was also going to invest in stove to stay warm in winter..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭irishbuzz


    Hi all,

    I've just commenced an extensive renovation and extension of a 1980 bungalow (converting it to a dormer). The works will include extensive upgrades to insulation in floors/ ceilings/attic/roof and the external walls will be pumped and dry-lined. We're also installing UFH downstairs with aluminium rads upstairs being supplied by an Air-to-Water heat pump.

    My wife and I would like like to include a stove in our open plan living area (48sqm). It provides a focal point and we'd really miss the smells and ambience of a real fire on winter nights.

    But there are two conflicting concerns here. Our contractor tells us that given the UFH will run 24/7 we really won't need a stove as it would 'roast us out of it'. His advice is that at the very least we should stick to very small/low kw stove. The other concern, however, is that if our electricity were to go we would be without heating. In this case, I would hope that we could just fire up the stove and at least that would keep the living area warm and the master bedroom above it livable (note: we've been told a back-boiler stove would not really suit our alu rads upstairs).

    Does anyone have any advice on how they'd proceed with the above setup? Is it possible to achieve varying temperature outputs from the same stove?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,955 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    irishbuzz wrote: »
    Hi all,

    I've just commenced an extensive renovation and extension of a 1980 bungalow (converting it to a dormer). The works will include extensive upgrades to insulation in floors/ ceilings/attic/roof and the external walls will be pumped and dry-lined. We're also installing UFH downstairs with aluminium rads upstairs being supplied by an Air-to-Water heat pump.

    My wife and I would like like to include a stove in our open plan living area (48sqm). It provides a focal point and we'd really miss the smells and ambience of a real fire on winter nights.

    But there are two conflicting concerns here. Our contractor tells us that given the UFH will run 24/7 we really won't need a stove as it would 'roast us out of it'. His advice is that at the very least we should stick to very small/low kw stove. The other concern, however, is that if our electricity were to go we would be without heating. In this case, I would hope that we could just fire up the stove and at least that would keep the living area warm and the master bedroom above it livable (note: we've been told a back-boiler stove would not really suit our alu rads upstairs).

    Does anyone have any advice on how they'd proceed with the above setup? Is it possible to achieve varying temperature outputs from the same stove?

    My brother has UFH and has a open stove in living area. Like yourself he wanted an open fire.

    They use it all the time during winter. He has a large open space and it heats it up great.

    I don't see how the UFH & Stove would roast you out of it. You just turn down the temp on the UFH.

    As recommended I would not use a back boiler as it would not be good for the system but a standalone I don't see any issue with.

    You can change the heat using the controls in the front, more or less you stop air going in and that cuts down the burning rate and less heat generated. But if you load it up and suddenly it is too warm, turning down the air doesn't mean it suddenly stop firing out heat, it will just decrease it...

    How big of a stove are you thinking about is probably the main question?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭irishbuzz


    Thanks for the reply Shefwedfan. I hadn't really thought about adjusting the thermostats much. I've never had UFH before but I suppose if you adjust the thermostat early enough the room should cool down at roughly the same time as the stove gets heating. Just need to remember to increase that stat again before going to bed etc.

    At the moment we're considering a stove that's 7-8kW. For example a Stanley Aoife or Tara stove. The chimney stack actually backs into our smaller second sitting room (16sqm) so we're also considering going for a double-sided cassette stove instead. It would require rebuilding the chimney stack but that's something we may need to do regardless. I'm also not certain how two rooms of such varying sizes would fair out being served by the same stove.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,955 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    irishbuzz wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply Shefwedfan. I hadn't really thought about adjusting the thermostats much. I've never had UFH before but I suppose if you adjust the thermostat early enough the room should cool down at roughly the same time as the stove gets heating. Just need to remember to increase that stat again before going to bed etc.

    At the moment we're considering a stove that's 7-8kW. For example a Stanley Aoife or Tara stove. The chimney stack actually backs into our smaller second sitting room (16sqm) so we're also considering going for a double-sided cassette stove instead. It would require rebuilding the chimney stack but that's something we may need to do regardless. I'm also not certain how two rooms of such varying sizes would fair out being served by the same stove.

    Funny enough, that is what my brother has. His house was new build and he put a feature red brick fireplace between the dining room and conservatory. There is double sided stove in it so he puts heat out into both rooms. It works perfect for him....I never heard him complain about been too warm....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭irishbuzz


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Funny enough, that is what my brother has. His house was new build and he put a feature red brick fireplace between the dining room and conservatory. There is double sided stove in it so he puts heat out into both rooms. It works perfect for him....I never heard him complain about been too warm....

    Interesting, are these rooms distinctly separate rooms or are there openings either side of the breast? Any chance you could find out the brand of the stove also?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,955 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    irishbuzz wrote: »
    Interesting, are these rooms distinctly separate rooms or are there openings either side of the breast? Any chance you could find out the brand of the stove also?

    I will ask him....

    To try to explain, there is a large dining room and this has a large conservatory off it. There is no doors. To split between the rooms is the fireplace with the stove, on either side is opening you can walk between the rooms.

    Hope that makes sense
    Kind of like this if you get me
    e4d5552bbf6d80a58e8ab69f01299a14--double-fireplace-two-sided-fireplace.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭irishbuzz


    I see what you mean Shefwedfan. In our case, either side of the chimney will serve two separate rooms. The fact that one is 3 times the size of the other means that we could end up over heating the smaller room or underheating the large but I reckon if we go small enough kW wise this shouldn't be much of a problem.

    The only other issue that concerns me is that I've yet to see any standard size for these double-sided stoves. I'm a bit wary that in X years time if it needs to be replaced that we might find it impossible to find a suitable replacement.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,599 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    Hi all, does anyone have Vitae 6kw installed into existing fireplace? I got a quote to install including lining chimney etc for 1700euro and i'm tempted. I think maybe this stove would look better with fireplace removed as it's quote a modern stove whereas my fireplace is is victorian period style.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭bungaro79


    hi
    we're in the final stages of buying a house and the kitchen has a sunroom onto it and theres a stove in there. i have never had a stove before and the sellers aren't great with passing on info so we're unsure of what kind of stove it is. can anyone identify what we have?? also, there doesn't seem to be any vent in the room which i know is important. should we get a vent installed in somewhere high above it??
    thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    It's a Waterford Stanley Fionn


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭bungaro79


    Thanks forge


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Skippy along


    Getting a Henley arklow 7kw stove with flue liner etc installed next week, would it be a good idea to get the chimney cleaned beforehand thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,599 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    Getting a Henley arklow 7kw stove with flue liner etc installed next week, would it be a good idea to get the chimney cleaned beforehand thanks

    I'm getting stove installed next week and chimney lined. The installer never mentioned getting chimney cleaned. It was checked over a year ago and rarely lit though but i would hope installer would clean it if needs be before lining chimney....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,955 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    jaffa20 wrote: »
    I'm getting stove installed next week and chimney lined. The installer never mentioned getting chimney cleaned. It was checked over a year ago and rarely lit though but i would hope installer would clean it if needs be before lining chimney....

    Pushing the liner down it will clean it :P

    Be prepared for almighty mess


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,599 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Pushing the liner down it will clean it :P

    Be prepared for almighty mess

    Oh dear. I'm hoping it should be fairly clean. I'm more worried about bend in chimney as there is fireplace directly above in bedroom.


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