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Laying Ceramic Floor Tiles

  • 18-09-2002 8:54am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,509 ✭✭✭


    I will shortly be laying some ceramic floor tiles in my kitchen. I've never done any sort of tiling before but I've done some researching and read quite a few articles on how to go about doing it and I'm feeling pretty confident about taking it on.

    I'm just wondering if anyone else has layed ceramic floor tiles themselves, if so, what difficulties/problems did you encounter? What advice would you give a first timer?

    TIA,

    viking


Comments

  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,885 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Actually Ive just finished tiling my kitchen floor and I didnt do too bad a job on it.
    The hardest part I found was the cutting of the tiles.I bought an electric tile cutter when I was half way through tiling cos the hand cutter was s**t.So I recommend to buy one of them €60.00 or therabouts in B&Q.
    Also what are you tiling on to-If you are tiling on tiles(I was) then you have to buy a PVa? based tiling cement.Also make sure that your doors will open with the extra height-I didnt and had to get 2 doors skimmed:(
    Also buy the proper tile spacers-the ones you can leave down-they make the job that little bit easier.
    It took me 2 days to completely tile 14sq yds so I didnt do too bad.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,509 ✭✭✭viking


    Originally posted by Hellrazer
    Also what are you tiling on to-If you are tiling on tiles(I was) then you have to buy a PVa? based tiling cement.
    I'll be tiling onto concrete - I don't think I'll need a primer..
    Also make sure that your doors will open with the extra height-I didnt and had to get 2 doors skimmed:(
    Hmm, didn't think about that, although I'm pretty sure that there'll be enough space...
    It took me 2 days to completely tile 14sq yds so I didnt do too bad.
    I've got approx. 34sq. yards to do, so by that reckoning it'll take the best part of about 5 days. Were you working on it full time?

    viking


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,885 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    No I wasnt at it full time-did it over a weekend 3-4 hours per day.And that was completely finished-Grouting and everything.
    Be careful with the doors-allow 3/4 of an inch to be certain.
    Yeah and if yer tiling onto concrete you can use ordinary tile cement--just make sure the floor is level.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 710 ✭✭✭BattlingCheese


    Just done a kitchen floor aswell. Only thing to watch out for when tiling over concrete is to watch for bits of uneveness caused by drops of concrete. Just chip it away.

    I primed my concrete floor with a PVA based adhesive. Don't think it's necessary but I was advised by my dad to do it. Stops dampness seeping up apparently. This was in a newly built appartment by the way.

    Another thing to watch out for is to measure the floor space and start in the middle of the floor. Gives a nice professional finish.

    Get a manual tile cutter like the one on woodies.ie. Search for tile cutter and it's the first result titled "Master Tiler Kit 7 Piece", can't link because it's a frames website. My parents bought one a while ago and I borrowed it to do my floor recently and it still works a treat.

    For funny angles I used an angle grinder and a pliers wearing safety glasses of course.

    Everything else is just plain common sense and reading the instructions on the packs of adhesive and grouting etc.
    O and get something soft to kneel on :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Borzoi


    Did two bathrooms at the beginning of the year - fiddly.

    I'd agree with the others have said
    Don't need a primer, especially in a new place, there's a DPC under the concrete. Yeah make sure the floor is level - no bumps. Use the tile spacers.

    As for the doors, if you have a jiqsaw or handsaw that will do an standard door with ease.

    For cutting materials I hired a professional cutting kit from HSS (who are great:) ) for about €20 per day, but you'll still need something for the real tricky curves/corners.
    Angle grinder if you know what you're at is the fastest.
    Jigsaw with ceramic blade is good
    Tile pliers vary good, but slow and hard work
    Tile hand saw - just crap

    Make sure you use the waterproof adhesive and grout for a kitchen. Grey grout is generally better than white on a floor - easier to keep clean.

    And just one more thing, in a kitchen you've got to watch out for the kickboards under ther presses, and cfor continueing tiling to the back of under counter appliances, like washing machines.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,509 ✭✭✭viking


    Another thing to watch out for is to measure the floor space and start in the middle of the floor. Gives a nice professional finish.
    Ok, I have a question about this. I understand that you find the middle of the room and do some dry runs of laying out tiles to each wall from the centre of the room to see what gaps are left at the edges. But when you found the centre of the room, how did you mark the line you need to keep the tiles on? I understand that you can snap a chalk line onto the ground, but wouldn't the tile cement cover the line? Anyone got any ideas on how to go about this?
    Make sure you use the waterproof adhesive and grout for a kitchen. Grey grout is generally better than white on a floor - easier to keep clean.
    We got a special deal from Tilemarket where they threw in the Adhesive and grout with the tiles. I haven't picked up the tiles yet so I'm not sure that the adhesive is waterproof. If its not would there be a major problem in using non-waterproof adhesive in the kitchen seeing that its not going to be subjected to the same level of water exposure that a bathroom would be?

    BTW, thanks for the helpful replies, I'm definitely feeling more confident about doing this.

    viking


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 710 ✭✭✭BattlingCheese


    Find the middle of the room. Once you have this point this is where the middle of the first tile goes. Dry run this first line horizonally to the kitchen units and if correct you will have a gap on each side that's the same width on either end and will need to be cut as your probably not lucky enough to have the end tiles fitting exactly. It's a bit fiddly and may need more then one go but after the first line it's easy.

    Try and get a straight piece of wood and nail it into the floor just so you get a dead straight first line. After this the spacers will keep all subsequent lines striaght which is why the first line is so important.

    Hope you understand what I'm trying to write.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,509 ✭✭✭viking


    Try and get a straight piece of wood and nail it into the floor just so you get a dead straight first line. After this the spacers will keep all subsequent lines striaght which is why the first line is so important.
    Brilliant, thats a great idea...
    Hope you understand what I'm trying to write.
    Got it in one, cheers!:D

    viking


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