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Plumbing in an American Stlye FridgeFreezer

  • 22-10-2005 4:04pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭


    I need to plumb in an American Style FridgeFreezer for the water and Ice dispenser. The 8mtr long fridge water pipe has a connection that fits our outdoor water tap. ie. the same size as a screw on Hoselock water hose connection for attaching a hose to the outdoor tap. I don't intend to plumb the fridge to the outdoor tap obviously but just mention it to give you an idea of the fridges connector.

    I reckon I need to splice in a T connector?? into the cold water taps pipe (3/4 inch diametre??) . This is a cream coloured plastic pipe. So I guess I should turn the water off, cut a section out of the pipe and slice in this T connector. Do the make T connectors with 3/4inch connections for joining both ends of the pipe I have cut and the third connection on the T being the wider type that the fridge connector would screw onto.

    Am I explaining myself properly? Where would I get the T-Connector. Does it have a name, How do I make sure there are no leaks where I splice in this T-Connector etc

    Can anyone help?

    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭stapeler


    Same as a washing machine connection, these connectors should be available from B&Q, Heatmerchants etc. There are a couple of brands, ie. Acorn and Speedfit or your standart compression fittings. Your cream water pipe is probably Qualplex, You will need a pushon/compression teepiece, then using a short piece of Qualplex connect in an push fit washing maching valve. Check out Screwfix.com for p/n 18908 & 13708 for an example of products...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 482 ✭✭tapest


    Calibos wrote:

    I reckon I need to splice in a T connector?? into the cold water taps pipe (3/4 inch diametre??) . This is a cream coloured plastic pipe. So I guess I should turn the water off, cut a section out of the pipe and slice in this T connector. Do the make T connectors with 3/4inch connections for joining both ends of the pipe I have cut and the third connection on the T being the wider type that the fridge connector would screw onto.

    Am I explaining myself properly? Where would I get the T-Connector. Does it have a name, How do I make sure there are no leaks where I splice in this T-Connector etc

    Thanks in advance

    Hi you have the right idea. If (as stapler says) the pipe is qualpex, I strongly advise using compression fitting...but make sure you use copper inserts in pipe ends...I assume the fridge is in kitchen and your making the connection under sink...pipe is 1/2 inch surely?. I think fitting is called 318 ( a three eighteen), but if you ask for a "t piece" they'll know what you mean. Source everything in builder providers ( sand / cement yard) much cheaper. I don't use english shops for plumbing gear 'cause I'm always nervous I'll get english copper pipe andfittings ( their pipe and olive sizes are slightly different). Suggest getting a second t piece and as you'll have to get some pipe anyway,you'll use it sometime ( they'll even take it back). If you cut out too much pipe the second t piece will come to the rescue ( get a "blank " as well, to turn the second t into a straight connector, a three "eighteen" into a "three fifteen" or is it a "three ten") You never know you may decide to put a yard tap in later.
    Do not use qualpex "push on " fittings.. You have to cut very square(special scissors) and the build in "grab ring" only grabs 1/16 inch pipe. Pipe is good , fittings not for me. I know others will disagree with me. Trust me on this, for someone with your lack of experience use compression fittings with inserts.
    As regards leaks..After you tighten up fittings(really tight) turn on water and then cold tap to expell air and feel for weep at joints. Water pressure increases at night so when everything is dried up, leave a mound of toilet tissue (not kitchen roll) around and under joint. If there is a slight weep you'll detect it...tighten more.
    Don't forget plastic pipe will go round bends, not corners ( no 90 degrees) For that you need "elbow" ( that's the other number "three fifteen" or "three ten".
    One last thing, when you startcutting pipe ( water off) there will be considerable water in pipe and it will run down the pipe. Towels around pipe( spare mop head if you have one even better) small tins, baking tray and a large bucket to empty into. Have too many, don't want to be running round looking for them, with water running. You may be able to direct the water into tin using tape , drinking straw, simply bending pipe slightly. Don't cut straight through, stop as soon as you see water and finish your first cut when pipe has fully drained, with cold tap open (to allow air in)

    Hope I haven't put you off..it is easy and straight forward. just have a few extras on hand in case you need them, As I say If you shop in builders yard and tell them at the time. they'll take the stuff back. Hell the lads there will almost do it for you, they'll give you what you need,

    What area are you in?
    t

    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Calibos


    Yeah the pipe looks like 1/2 inch actually now that you mention it. So the T connector should be of the compression type, it'll have the same size connections on the three ends, Small piece of qualpex coming out of middle connector with a Washing machine connector on the end which the fridges connector screws onto.

    Think I got now guys.

    Thanks for your help! :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 482 ✭✭tapest


    Calibos wrote:
    Yeah the pipe looks like 1/2 inch actually now that you mention it. So the T connector should be of the compression type, it'll have the same size connections on the three ends, Small piece of qualpex coming out of middle connector with a Washing machine connector on the end which the fridges connector screws onto.

    Think I got now guys.

    Thanks for your help! :D

    Hi
    Whatever connection you get ( you say "washing machine" ) make sure threads suit. There'll be a rubber washer of some sort. A little bit of PTFE tape(very cheap) on the threads (wound on the right way...ask in builders yard) will help against weeps. Make sure the connection fitting has a switch, if not install one, very important. ok??
    t


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Calibos


    Went up to woodies today and found one of these and fitted it. Has been dry all day. Problem is I may have to tighten more, as when I went to take the pic I found that it rotates around the pipe with a bit of pressure. Started to weep for a few seconds but is back bone dry now. Wrapped it in a towel and will tighten some more tomorrow. Wont risk tightening it tonight lest I turn the nut in the wrong direction and it pops off!! and I can't turn the water off cause the dishwasher and washine machine are on.

    img47605rb.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 482 ✭✭tapest


    Calibos wrote:
    Went up to woodies today and found one of these and fitted it. Has been dry all day. Problem is I may have to tighten more, as when I went to take the pic I found that it rotates around the pipe with a bit of pressure. Started to weep for a few seconds but is back bone dry now. Wrapped it in a towel and will tighten some more tomorrow. Wont risk tightening it tonight lest I turn the nut in the wrong direction and it pops off!! and I can't turn the water off cause the dishwasher and washine machine are on.

    img47605rb.jpg

    HI
    Whay started to weep? If it's the plastic nut, too much pressure can damage it, take it off and reseal. If it's the chrome nut, that's ok. Assuming you used the copper inserts, and assuming you pushed the pipe well into the fitting before sliding the olive home...then tighten away, lad, it will take a fair bit of oomph, and the pipe will not come off. As regards tightening the wrong way, always "stand" behind the nut and turn clockwise.
    You did use the inserts, right????

    The next bit does not apply to you now, but I mark it for your attention, just in case you go mad with your new found skill.That wire in the background is I suspect the earth wire coming from the metal sink unit. If ever you break a copper pipe and insert /splice in a plastic pipe ALWAYS run an earth wire with the pipe and clamp it to the copper pipe at both ends, with correct fittings ( the one and only exception being a garden hose).The plastic pipe effectively breaks the pipe earthing. Do this even if you can't see an earth anywhere near. If for any reason that particular pipe should not be earted(and I can't think of any reason why why it shouldn't) then al you have done is wasted a bit of wire, the pipe will still not be earted. And if you don't know what size cable to use err on the right side and use a heavy one.
    get back to me on the inserts and confirm weep from metl nut

    nice of you to include photo
    t


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Calibos


    It was the right hand side metal nut the weep was coming from rather than the plastic fridge connector. When I went to tighten it this morning it was still bone dry. On close inspection I could see more thread visible on the right hand nut and after turning water back off and tightening, I found there was a good half turn left in the nut. After tightening there was still no further weep (So I haven't over tightened) and the fitting now cannot rotate around the pipe with 'Any Pressure'.

    Jobs a Goodin!

    Thanks for all your help Tapest! I really appreciate it, and don't worry, I don't have any ideas above my 'plumbing' station! :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 482 ✭✭tapest


    Calibos wrote:
    I

    Jobs a Goodin!

    and don't worry, I don't have any ideas above my 'plumbing' station! :D

    Ah sure ,if ya don't try, ye'll never learn
    regards
    t


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