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Check engine light on a Honda Civic

  • 26-06-2005 4:08pm
    #1
    Zascar
    Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 12,781 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    I have a 96 Honda Civic 1.5VTi and the orange check engine light has been on for some time. I've had the car for years and it has been on and off a fair bit during that time, but for no particular reason. On my last service my mechanic sid the car was in perfect condition, nothing wrong, and that the light can be a number of things, some very small and insignificant, so unles the car doens't feel right, no need to panic. Aparantly only the dealers can switch it off, but it has to be hooked up to a special diagnostics maching which costs a fortune.

    Has anyone else had this problem and know what the most likely causes of this are?


Comments

  • #2
    Saturnine
    Closed Accounts Posts: 84 ✭✭Saturnine


    Could be a stored fault code or something simple like alternator brushes wearing down.


  • #3
    TheMasterG
    Closed Accounts Posts: 48 ✭TheMasterG


    Probably just a dodgy sensor, they have a tendency to go.

    You can check it yourself, it's pretty easy, just follow this guide!

    :cool:


  • #4
    Zascar
    Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 12,781 Mod ✭✭✭✭Zascar


    Cool, cheers for that link i'll check it out.


  • #5
    AMurphy
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭AMurphy


    if it has an EOBD or OBDI/II connector a simple hand held instrument should read the codes. otherwise hte shorting method should work.

    Eithe rwya I could be as simple as a faulty seal on the gas cap, or even a loose gas cap.
    Just because hte light goes out, does not mean the code has gone away, it may be stored for up to 50 "drive cycles", depending on the code.


  • #6
    ZENER
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,163 ✭✭✭ZENER


    Honda changed the management system after 92 so some of the codes above may not be valid, I recognise them from my 1990 Prelude PGMFi.

    It used to be possible to read the codes from a small window on the ECU in the footwell of the passanger side but things have changed since my ride. On the older system you could sort of tell where the problem was. If the light came on straight away then it was ignition or MAP or intake sensors while the car was in open loop mode. Once normal engine temp was reached the engine would be in closed loop mode (with feedback) if the light came on then it meant (usually) the O2 sensors. Any of this familiar ??

    On the old system to reset the ECU you would:

    Disconnect the Battery for about 15 minutes.
    Reconnect battery
    Start car and run in idle WITHOUT TOUCHING THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL.
    After 15 minutes (or radiator fan comes on once) turn off.

    After this procedure the ECU was reset.

    Might help !!!

    ZEN


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