buying a bike-advice

dawballz

I'm going to look at a bike soon enough.

It's a Yamaha TDR 125(2 stroke).

What are the obvious things to look out for on the bike?

I think the guy is asking for 2100(obviously the 100 is there to be taken off) so I plan on making an offer of about 1700.

It's a 00 bike and seems in good enough condition(I've seen pictures of it).
His reason for sale is that he wants a bigger bike.

Seems like an honest guy.


This is my second bike. I had an NSR 80 there 2 years ago.

Anyone know anything about this bike?
What are the gears on it?(I've only every drove my NSR, which was 1 down, 5 up, so I'm not sure if there is standards).


Really all I need is what to look for on bikes in general.

causal

iirc credit for this checklist goes to a certain tech-meister John O'Neill.
If you've got any friends who are tech-savvy ask if they can come with you to view (and test-ride if you and the seller can agree to it) the bike.

Things To Check Before You Buy The Bike


Wheel Bearings
With the wheel off the ground, hold the rim/tyre at opposite sides and try to rock it side to side. There should be no movement.

Fork Seals
Pull back any covers. The stanchions (chrome bits) should be clean and oil free. Any trace of oil means the fork seals are blown. (A small trace of oil could mean the seals are just starting to weep or there's very little oil left in the forks!! Either way the seals need to be replaced.)

Chain & Sprockets
The chain should not be easily pulled off the rear sprocket. The teeth on both sprockets should not be chipped or hooked.

Steering Head Bearings
Support the bike with the front wheel off the ground. Hold the front forks firmly and try to push/pull them backwards and forwards. Movement means the bearings need adjustment or replacement. Turn the forks lock to lock. Any notchy feeling means the bearings are pitted and need replacing.

Fork Action
Apply the front brakes. Push down heavily on the front forks. They should compress smoothly and quietly.

Electrics
Insulating tape and wires twisted together could cause trouble for you later (usually on a wet & cold night in the middle of nowhere.)

Fasteners
Chewed-up heads on fasteners could be the sign of a heavy handed bodger/muppet. Newish fasteners on a tatty bike can mean the same. Of course it could also mean that the Japanese do use cheese in the manufacture of fasteners!

Oil Condition
Look at the dipstick. The oil should NOT be thin and black. Sludge is also a bad sign.

Frame & Engine Numbers
These should match what's on the registration documents. All the digits should look the same. Check closely for any signs of tampering - 3 can be easily changed to 8 and 1 into 4. Remember the Golden Rule - No documents = No sale.

Swinging Arm Bearing/Bushes
With the rear wheel off the ground feel for side to side movement. There should be no movement.

Damage
Check for unusual dents, kinks and cracked welds especially around the headstock and downtubes.

hth,
causal

jiffy

Check this link for a checlist of stuff that you should go through when looking at a new (2nd hand) bike before parting with cash.

http://www.irishbikerforum.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=194

Good luck,

Matt

528i

does it look like this one ?
€2,000 is for nothing biy, might buy a couple meself

causal

528i wrote:

does it look like this one ?
€2,000 is for nothing biy, might buy a couple meself

I think you'll find that's a DT125X - the blue one is obviously used on the roads (as opposed to off-road).

causal

seamus

Be aware that the TDR is a two-stroke. This presents further problems in regards proper maintenance. Go with your gut. Don't buy the bike if you don't feel happy about it.

dawballz

528i wrote:

does it look like this one ?
€2,000 is for nothing biy, might buy a couple meself

Nope but if you read my post under that you know what I'm saying.

I would like that, but there isn't any around. That yoke is loverly imo.