Noisy pipes vibrating when water tank in attic fills up

Dopey

We have a problem with copper pipes vibrating when the water tank in the attic fills up. It's towards the end of the tank filling with water. The problem has got worse in the past few weeks and our attic converter thinks it's the valve on the tank.

Has anybody had any experience of this? It sounds like someone is drilling a hole in the wall.

Many thanks,

Dopey

gamer

Yes i have same problem ,sounds like drill going into the wall,i dont have a solution though.google diy plumbing problems etc.i dont mind it too much ,it stops after 10 minutes or less.

MorningStar

The simply way for noviece people is to put insulation around the pipes. it just slips on the pipes. I found it worked but there is probably a better expert way of doing it. Sombody mentioned I should get a "sail" to fix the problem which apparently regulates the flow of water
My theory on the insulation was it would absorb some of the sound and also stop the pipes expanding and contracting enough (which I think is the cause of the sound)

pipers

Replace the ballcock with an equilibrium type

rooferPete

Hi Pipers,

I was just wondering, could there be a problem with the anti-syphonic regulator ?

.

gamer

insulation is no use for pipes going in to tank,i think ballcock fitting can be adjusted or fitting put in tank,i cantremember details ,i read about this before.

MorningStar

gamer wrote:

insulation is no use for pipes going in to tank,i think ballcock fitting can be adjusted or fitting put in tank,i cantremember details ,i read about this before.

The sound stopped! Sometimes the noise can be pipes hitting off each other and not the water going into the tank. The pressure can cause the pipes to shake as can cold water in a warm pipe. It might not be the expert advise but it will do something.

flocker

Check that the pipes are insulated and supported or clipped firmly.

Did the "attic converter" move the storage tank? If there was no problem before the move, it may just need the pipework to be properly clipped and supported.

Dopey

Thanks for all the responses folks. The noise was happening before the attic converter started his work. He didn't need to move that tank. We got a new kitchen in two years ago and a carpenter boxed up pipes in the kitchen. I think the noise might be emanating from there. It's hard to tell as the noise seems to be worse upstairs. The pipes were probably pushed together. I'm reluctant to remove the boxing in case I damage it. It's nice and neat.

I did a search on google for the equilibrium type ballcock that Piper suggested. Some people mentioned that it was good for toilet cisterns but not attic tanks. Not sure what that means. I am going to try and clip them back tonight as flocker and Morning Star suggested. If that doesn't work I'll price the equilibrium type ballcock.

The attic converter is doing the plumbing aswell but it's not his forte. He fitted a radiator in the attic yesterday and it doesn't work. Hopefully he'll sort that out.

Thanks again,

Dopey

annR

I have this problem as well, it happens when the loo fills up again after flushing, there is a terrible banging noise behind the wall in the bathroom. I would like to sort this out for myself and am also concerned that when someone moves into the apartment next door they might be able to hear it.

I can't get at the pipes as noise is behind the wall. What is an 'equilibrium type ballcock' - maybe that's what I need.

rooferPete

Hi annR,

At one time there were high and low pressure valves for attic tanks, the pressure is fairly equal now so a standard valve is used, fitting pipe insulation should sort out the majority of the noise.

Can you get near pipes at all ? the pipe insulation can slide along the pipe and that may work for you.

Hi Dopey,

Is you heating system pressurised ?, (Red pressure vessel) it may be necessary for the pump to be ugraded to pump the water that extra 3 metres, if the system is an open gravity type (header tank) it can be very difficult to get the water to rise to the attic, the header tank may need to be raised or converted to a pressurised system.

A lot of attic conversion companies reccomend an electric rad because of the difficulties in getting the radiators to work in the attic.

.

Dopey

Hi rooferPete,

Thanks for the response. I don't know if the heating system is pressurised but the rad is now working in the attic, so I guess it probably is. The day after the attic guy fitted the rad it worked. There may have been an air bubble or something. I thought then that the heating would have to be on for a long time before it would heat that attic rad but that is not the case. It heats up straight away.

The rattle noise in the pipes has got worse. The water pressure going to the attic tank is very low. I can only get at the pipes running into the tank but I am going to try and slide on some insulation. Someone suggested changing the valve to an equilibrium type but I don't want to fork out for it if there is a free solution .

Thanks again,

Dopey

gamer

antisymphonic regulator ??? is that some kind of joke?what is it?

Dopey

beats the **** out of me gamer!

rooferPete

Hi Gamer,

Sorry, missing a smiley it was meant as joke for Pipers who didn't respond in kind, there are anti syphon methods one of the reasons the noise reducer was removed from the ball valves in storage tanks was they could syphon the tank if the water pressure was low.

Apologies for my own Stupid Mistake honestly I didn't mean to mislead anyone :mad: :mad: :mad:


.

depadz

had same problem as AnnR. When flushed downstairs toliet was a loud vibrating noise as cistern filled up.
googled it and turns out that it was as simple as replacing the ball part of the ball cock. cost about €3 and 5 mins.

gamer

i get loud noise when tank is filling up,10 minutes duration.approx.

tigerman

There are two ways to sort this,

Either fit a water hammer arrester near the appliance with the problem (ie water tank)

Or remove the 1/2" copper pipe going to the water tank and replace as much of it as you can with 1/2" qualpex pipe.

Copper pipe offers no cushioning affect but plastic does,

The water hammer is causes when the tank is nearing its maintenance level and the water is flowing in so fast that the ball valve atarts bouncing up and down.

Sometimes you find that a low pressure reducing jet has been fitted into the ball valve when the house was built and over the years the main water pressure has improved and so the water pressure reducer needs to be changed for a white one.

---

Aqua masterHeating + PlumbingDublin City086 073 8198

annR

depadz, what exactly did you replace it with and where did you buy it?

depadz

i just replaced the ball bit.

woodies (or any of those places) - cost about €3. perhaps bring the old one with you (after tying up he arm!) so you get the right size...

crazy days

Hey Dopey,


the best advice I can give is ignore everything else that was said,
your biggest problem may not be your noisy pipes but ill advice on how to fix it.

the problem is obviousally with the ball cock, they're not to expensive, I'd say repalce it, if your in Dublin, Davies of Harmonstown or Hevac on the Nass Road would be the best bet. AVOID WOODIES DIY.

Your looking for a half inch Ball Cock.
if you want to replace it it's pretty easy, knock off the mains water the valve is usually under the kitchen sink and its usually brass, go to your tank check the water is off by pushing the float down, if it is disconnect it from the inside of the tank via the 3/4 inch nut, replace with the new one.
Usually over time the parts housed in the ball cock become worn and shutter in hte valve casing creating an almighty banning sound which is amplified through the pipework.
water hammer a different problem is caused when high pressure in the pipework meets a restriction, and causes a banging noise.

Hope this helps.

rooferPete

Hi crazy days,

Would you recommend a high or low pressure ball cock ?

.

pipers

Ill say this again, get an equilibrium ballcock (with a copper float). The best one is made by peglars.

crazy days

you need a high pressure on for mains water

GP

we have the same noise problem after showers and flushing loo....

it only started a little while back after the water was switched off for maintenance at the local water tower.

Could this have caused air to get into the system and this is causing the noise ?


We've been in the house almost 2 years so maybe it's just a case of wear as suggested in other posts and the water being switched off / noise starting was a coincidence..


VERY frustrating..

Pocari Sweat

The only poster that got it exactly right was -

Aqua masterHeating + PlumbingDublin City 086 073 8198

There are two ways to sort this,

Either fit a water hammer arrester near the appliance with the problem (ie water tank)

Or remove the 1/2" copper pipe going to the water tank and replace as much of it as you can with 1/2" qualpex pipe.

Copper pipe offers no cushioning affect but plastic does,

The water hammer is causes when the tank is nearing its maintenance level and the water is flowing in so fast that the ball valve atarts bouncing up and down.

Sometimes you find that a low pressure reducing jet has been fitted into the ball valve when the house was built and over the years the main water pressure has improved and so the water pressure reducer needs to be changed for a white one.

He covered all the points needed.

Do the last one he recommends first though, it is the cheapest and usually the most effective. If you have a red jet in the ballcock, change it for a white one. They are only 50 cents and it takes two minutes to do.

If you are a novice, you can pop in a section of half inch qualpex if copper pipe is plumbed up to the ballcock. Just get a metre or two of qualpex and two Tectite 1/2 push fit joiners, and cut a section of the copper pipe out and pop in the qualpex.

Finally if all else fails, which you should not need to do, is get a water hammer arrester, and fit it close to the ballcock on the feed pipe to it.

Many mains feeds to ballcocks are 1/2 heavy duty hydrdare though, so check the pipe first. 1/2 heavy hydrodare has a 3/4 inch diameter.

GP

That's great. Thanks very much. WIll check the jet to see what we have and follow the advice.

cheers
GP

eddiej

Hi, when the heating comes on we get this same dadadadadada drilling noise which last for a few minutes till the system has settled is this caused by the same thing I have qualpex running to all the rads and just copper piping aroungd the hotpress the noise seems to come from the hotpress area

GP

pipers wrote:

Ill say this again, get an equilibrium ballcock (with a copper float). The best one is made by peglars.

Is this what I need to get ?

NewGrad

The water tank in my attic makes alot of noise when it is filling.
It seems to be a combination of water hammer and the water filling into the tank.
I heard a silent ball valve may help, but have not been able to locate one.

Does anyone know where I could get one or am I better to use a water hammer suppressor?

Thomas16

Dopey wrote: »

We have a problem with copper pipes vibrating when the water tank in the attic fills up. It's towards the end of the tank filling with water. The problem has got worse in the past few weeks and our attic converter thinks it's the valve on the tank.

Has anybody had any experience of this? It sounds like someone is drilling a hole in the wall.

Many thanks,

Dopey

Hi Dopey,

The same problem in my water tank. May I know, How did You fix this issue?

Thank You