Is this any good?

g5hn710m4xpdwy

http://www.rccarsandtrucks.co.uk/1372_3_1452994.html
well first off is this a good car? ill only be messin around with it,not racing. and do you know what the power of that battery is???

coolwings

1/10 th car with AA size batteries? It wont win any races ...

g5hn710m4xpdwy

i wont be racing i just want one that will be fastish and will look cool with led mods on it!

SLIM19198

The only difference between that one and any one in a toy shop is the cool looking bodies, otherwise, its just a toy!

2 Espressi

it's not worth it. €20 maybe, not 75. It's not even fully proportional! If I got it really cheap, as in for less that €20, then I would use the body and wheels, and put them on a better chassis. (which I've seen done with these JadaToys)

g5hn710m4xpdwy

well really im looking for sumthing thats has that style of body wit a powerfull batery and motor and under the €100 pricemark

coolwings

Flunked wrote:

well really im looking for sumthing thats has that style of body wit a powerfull batery and motor and under the €100 pricemark

Power costs - size costs.... is there any particular reason why you chose €100 ?
An RC radio with full range is in the €60 region, just the radio, not car, or battery or charger.
There are leccy cars at Green Hobby & Model for under €100. I suppose about €65-85 depending on the particular make you choose. But they are not in the website. And they are not 1/10th scale. The dearer ones are more toylike, and the cheaper ones more RC like.

SLIM19198

You get what you pay for really, buy a cheap car, it wont last long and there might not be parts available for it.

Pay a bit more, car will do more and will have all parts readily available for when you hit that step (and yes, we all hit a step sooner or later, no one is infallible at driving RC's ;-) )

g5hn710m4xpdwy

ok thx but do u know of a ok car,import style and for beginners-intermedate? all i really want is to have a kinda fast car and then ill mod it

Fobia

Flunked wrote:

ok thx but do u know of a ok car,import style and for beginners-intermedate? all i really want is to have a kinda fast car and then ill mod it

/me has never understood why people mod things wish neon lights etc - it doesn't look cool, be it on a car, pc, remote control car or otherwise

techguy

Fobia wrote:

/me has never understood why people mod things wish neon lights etc - it doesn't look cool, be it on a car, pc, remote control car or otherwise

I'm sure its just a matter of opinion...

coolwings

SLIM19198 wrote:

You get what you pay for really.... all parts readily available for when you hit that step (and yes, we all hit a step sooner or later, no one is infallible at driving RC's ;-) )

Yeah ... steps, gateposts, underside of real cars parked nearby.......and always - of course - don't forget the other RC cars you're racing with
It's like these things are magnetically attracted to our model. :eek:

dts

For the money you are looking to spend you would be better with a Nikko 1/10 car with a 7.2 volt battery. They sell simple to change hop up motors and shocks and for a starter car they can do the wheel spins and skids and about 35KPH and they will put up with plenty of bashing and crashing. The one thing you will need is plenty of spare batteries as they only last about ten mins.
I have one that started me off but I soon moved over to Nitro. I still pull it out for a bash in front of the house, or when I have smashed the nitro car to bits!

coolwings

dts wrote:

For the money you are looking to spend you would be better with a Nikko 1/10 car with a 7.2 volt battery. .... you will need is plenty of spare batteries as they only last about ten mins.

That is what my friend Patrick in Green Hobby did. He has a x-mod leccie car, the car comes as semi assembled, and you finish it as stock, or with upgrade parts U can get, for a better job.
He threw away the stock battery, and put in some tiny nicads that I had from a model aircraft. Before it was just an electric car, but after, with the better battery inside, it did donuts, wheelspins , everything. Different animal altogether.
You wouldn't think that a different battery can transform a model car just that much. But it does.

2 Espressi

Entry level Tamiya should run to about 100 yoyo's.
for example:
Tower Hobbies sells This for US$94.99 (about €80)
OK, so shipping willbe about 25-30 on top of that, but it's a decent starter kit, with a variety of body styles, including a 350Z, as far as I remember...

RE: small scale cars, I started witha Mini-Z acouple of years ago. I only got into 1:10 scale in the last 18 months. Starting small can pay off, and once you're hooked you can move up a bit. later...

g5hn710m4xpdwy

DTS, i think i mite go with a car like that and up the motor...
Coolwings, where can i get one of those battereys cus i aint gettin it if it wont last longer than 3/4 to 1hours?

SLIM19198

Flunked wrote:

Coolwings, where can i get one of those battereys cus i aint gettin it if it wont last longer than 3/4 to 1hours?

You want a battery RC car to run 45-60 mins on one charge of a battery????

I dont even think that is possible!!!

Not unless you pick up a mini-z or something!

coolwings

Yes ... to get duration like that the fuel must be continuously replenished ... like scalextric, and the like.

The RC cars we use, and at the power levels we expect from them, we want 5-10 mins of extreme power. Then we refuel by swopping the battery.

The best rechargable batteries recharge in about 15 minutes if you use a good charger.

Nitro liquid fuel cars also last about 10 minutes, then get refuelled.

g5hn710m4xpdwy

ok then 15mins at least. seems like crap if they only go for that long... and the batterys can be deer rite? and what type of batterey did you put in to that car you were talkin bout, coolwings?

dts

You will want to use the standard 7.2 battery pack. These come with different current ratings. The higher the amps the better the cars motor will perform but the quicker it will discharge.
If you want a couple of batteries try eurobattery in the uk. They are about £7 each and shipping was about £3 but they were 7.2 V 1700A wich preformed much better that the standard 7.2V 1400A that came with the car.
Good luck

coolwings

I have to look at them again, they may be 2100s, but the latest chemistry in that size battery "can" is now 2500mAh, I know because I just got 8 of these on Friday last.

I'll take a look in his car & let U know.

The "stick" type battery, of "C" size cells is now up to 3700s, but we are using 3300s and find them tremendous. That is the battery size that makes the 1/10th scale cars really go.

coolwings

coolwings wrote:

...
I'll take a look in his car & let U know....

The X-MOD was set up for 4 x AAA alkaline dry cells, like silver seals or duracells.
We put similar size nicads in their place, and performance went up more than you would think possible.

:cool: :cool: :cool:

2 Espressi

Wow, any time I used rechargeables in the Mini-z I used to have to add an extra cell to make up for the drop in voltage, but I guess if you peaked 'em right you'd get more punch.

coolwings

2 Espressi wrote:

Wow, any time I used rechargeables in the Mini-z I used to have to add an extra cell to make up for the drop in voltage, but I guess if you peaked 'em right you'd get more punch.

I'll bet U used nimh, right?

dts

So did you get a car?

g5hn710m4xpdwy

no and want be for a while now :mad: im going to new york soon and need all the money. but im taking in all the info your posting and maybe ill get a car during the summer... but maybe alll will go well and i will get it even quicker
flunk

coolwings

2 Espressi wrote:

Wow, any time I used rechargeables in the Mini-z I used to have to add an extra cell to make up for the drop in voltage, but I guess if you peaked 'em right you'd get more punch.

The advantage of nicads with less capacity, over nimh, which hold more capacity, is that the nicads deliver amps when asked to...but only the very latest and best nimh can compare, and even then the nimh can only do it hot off the charger.
If U need power, use nimh warm, you'll get 20% more that way.
But if they are to be used cold, nicad works better, even tho it will run empty earlier.

coolwings

Later ...
a couple of examples:
Gold Peak 2200s
at room temperature run at 50amps, voltage falls and 30 seconds later voltage cutoff kicks in unless throttled down to avoid.

at room temperature at 40 amps, no problem, 40A is sustained, so is voltage which holds rpm at constant level.

same pack at 40-50 degrees hot off charger, 50 amps no problem, full voltage.

20% extra power

This does not apply to nicads.

It does have big implications for an electric flyer using nimh, especially "soft nimh" for a take off grass. The last thing you want is a power falloff as you go into the first climbing turn.
It is why we
A use the best cells we can afford (cheaper in the long term), and
B re-peak the battery at 2C before takeoff.

2 Espressi

Nice one CW, you've explained a lot there! I was using nimh's, of course.... I've a couple of 3000 mah nimh and recently got a set of slightly used 2400 nicads. the difference in the car was outstanding! I think the thing is aim for the best balance of Duration Vs. Punch..

coolwings

From a cold start the 2400s will show good power, but if the nimh 3300s are re-peaked at 2C (ie 6.6 Amps) that will warm them sufficient to beat 2400s at startup (by a small margin).
Later as the race progresses, the nicads warm up and deteriorate a bit as they begin to empty, but the nimh continue to deliver, enabling a win in the ending laps by the nimh.

Used cold, the nicads will win a short race, and as time passes the nimh will begin to catch up, and if given time, pass the nicads.

At the moment, I have some nicad (sanyo), some nimh (older ones Panasonic, newer ones KAN and Gold Peak), and some LiPoly.

Each technology/chemistry has to be used in a way that is sympathetic to its characteristics, to get the best from it.

For example, nimh and lipoly don't really like continuous current draw, and will give more if used in a pulse draw type style, (not always possible of course).