Preservative for Douglas Fir

Occidental

I'm after a bit of advice if anyone can help.

I'm using 7"x7" Douglas Fir posts for vertical posts in a porch. These need to be set into the ground, so I'd be interseted if anyone has any suggestions for treating them and what they might be set into. Timber is rough, untreated, kiln-dried.

I'll also be making a fair few kitchen units, so if anyone has used finishing oils with Douglas Fir, I'd appreciate any tips.

thanks,

Pat

kadman

Occidental wrote:

I'm after a bit of advice if anyone can help.

I'm using 7"x7" Douglas Fir posts for vertical posts in a porch. These need to be set into the ground, so I'd be interseted if anyone has any suggestions for treating them and what they might be set into. Timber is rough, untreated, kiln-dried.

I'll also be making a fair few kitchen units, so if anyone has used finishing oils with Douglas Fir, I'd appreciate any tips.

thanks,

Pat

Hi Pat,

There are a few options in this case , for setting into the ground.

As douglas fir is classed as only moderately durable, every effort to reduce it's immersion in water should be made. If you do set it into concrete, make sure that the base of the hole has plenty of coarse aggregate to allow drainage of water around the post base, and only put concrete around the side of the post, and do not completely close the bottom of the hole with concrete.

Another option would be to place the posts in steel sockets, or onto a steel plate, concreted into the ground. This way the posts are not in contact with the ground, hence should stay drier. Given the information you have posted, I am not too sure if this will work for you, if the posts are part of the closed porch structure. Are these posts just for structural roof support only , or are they part of the proposed window zone, or both.

As for finishing, Danish Oil is an excellent , durable finish, easily applied.

kadman

Occidental

kadman,

The porch will be open at the front and will be an entirely timber structure, with no windows. The roof will be a standard A frame with slate. There will be 4 7x7 vertical beams across the front with 7x3 beams running back to the tie beams on the house. The sides of the porch will be clad with 7x1 planks.

thanks,

Pat

kadman

Occidental wrote:

kadman,

The porch will be open at the front and will be an entirely timber structure, with no windows. The roof will be a standard A frame with slate. There will be 4 7x7 vertical beams across the front with 7x3 beams running back to the tie beams on the house. The sides of the porch will be clad with 7x1 planks.

thanks,

Pat

Well if the posts do not have to be part of an enclosed living space, then I would be inclined to set the bases in to steel sockets or onto bearing plates to keep them off the ground. Rather than clad the outside, I would make infill panels between the posts, as seperate units. This would show the full height posts, in all their beauty, and not cover them behind cladding. You could make decorative infils, by inserting diagonal timber rails or cladding.

There are so many arrangements you could consider, you could also use a balustrade type arrangement between posts.

Would I be correct in saying you are trying to achieve a similar appearence, to a front porch on a log or timber cabin.

kadman

This link should clarify each option. Although the posts on this link are for a garden fence, the methods and considerations remain the same.

http://www.gardeningdata.co.uk/construction/woodenfence/fenceposts.htm

kadman

Occidental

kadman,

The 7x1 planks will only be down the side of the porch. The 4 beams at the front will be infilled with cross timbers with leaded stained glass in between. As the front of the porch will be about 10' across, I'm now thinking about using a large piece of angle iron to tie the 4 vertical posts together.


cheers,

Pat

kadman

Sounds like you are making a 10ft wide front screen, with cladded side panels running back to the house. Am I right in my assumption.

If I am , how do you propose to weatherproof the stained glass panels, fitting between the posts. The logical thing to do , would be insert the panels into a rebated frame, and then fix these infils like a windowframe, between the posts, although you still have to have a proper method of sealing between the two.

Any chance of a sketch or drawing. If you need to join all the posts , why not do a proper beam and post construction , instead of using angle iron.
Its very hard to advise, when I may be thinking of a totally arrangement.

kadman

Occidental

kadman,

The angle iron will be to tie the posts together at the base. There will also be a 7x7 timber beam joining the posts at the top and the front of the A frame will be made of similar. I may protect the stained glass with normal clear panes, but I've got someone experienced with stained glass, so I'll follow his advice as we go.

All my drawings are pencil and paper affairs at home, so not much I can show you at the moment. I don't think you're far off track with what you're thinking.


Pat

Occidental

Okay,

In addition to all the previous good advice, I'm after possible finishes for Douglas Fir flooring. It's 7x1&1/4 planed and unfinished.

cheers,

Pat

kadman

Hi Occidental,

As you probably know there are many different brands of floor finish, Rustins, Ronseal, Junkers ect,

And just as many different types of finish, Varnish, Oils, Plastic coats ect,

My own preference is for Ronseal , Diamond coat, but I'm sure you will get other choices from other posters, so hang around.

kadman