Bankrolls (Hold'em)

Imposter

Following Shortstacks post here and things I've been thinking about lately what bankroll should one have for playing the different games (Hold'em):

- STT's (NL) - 15-20 times buy-in
- Small 2 or 3 table MTT's (NL) - 20-30 times buy-in
- MTT's 50-150 people (NL) - ? 100 times buy-in?
- MTT's > 150 people (NL) - ? more than 100 (possibly about 200) times buy-in?
- Cash - NL - 400-600 * Big Blind - should this be even higher?
- Cash - Limit - 200-300 * Big Bet - could this realistically be lower?

Are these figures near right or are they miles off?

Shortstack

Imposter wrote:

Following Shortstacks post here and things I've been thinking about lately what bankroll should one have for playing the different games (Hold'em):

- STT's (NL) - 15-20 times buy-in
- Small 2 or 3 table MTT's (NL) - 20-30 times buy-in
- MTT's 50-150 people (NL) - ? 100 times buy-in?
- MTT's > 150 people (NL) - ? more than 100 (possibly about 200) times buy-in?
- Cash - NL - 400-600 * Big Blind - should this be even higher?
- Cash - Limit - 200-300 * Big Bet - could this realistically be lower?

Are these figures near right or are they miles off?

I agree with STT's. I would include 2 table Tournaments in this as well.
MTT's - I don't use a figure for this. I simply adjust my STT depending how much I have spent in MTT's. If I have a big win I cash out and leave my bankroll at the $1000 mark.
Cash - I dont play much but read a lot about it and the general concensus is 300 Big Bets for limit and 15 Buy ins for NL.

Imposter

Shortstack wrote:

Cash - 15 Buy ins for NL.

What's a buy-in in relation to Big Blinds? for example, Party only allow 50BB max buy-in, VC and GamingClub allow 100BB. Or are you saying that amount of buy-ins regardless of the max BB's allowed?

Shortstack

Imposter wrote:

What's a buy-in in relation to Big Blinds? for example, Party only allow 50BB max buy-in, VC and GamingClub allow 100BB. Or are you saying that amount of buy-ins regardless of the max BB's allowed?

That's right, because you stand to lose your whole stack on any one hand you should be more concerned with buy ins as your bank roll calculator. It is never good practice to enter a NL game with less than the max allowed buy in as you are cutting your earning potential.
Limit games you can bring to a game whatever you like as you cannot lose it all on one hand. That is why Big bets are used to calculate bankroll requirements.

F Fiesta

Lets say I have a maximum of, em, 50 Euro. Thats my total, nothing else.

What games should I play etc?

Iago

Shortstack wrote:

It is never good practice to enter a NL game with less than the max allowed buy in as you are cutting your earning potential.

I'd never thought of it that way, I play at the micro limit levels either 10c/20c or 25c/50c and generally I'll view the table for a while and then sit down with enough to cover over half the table, based on their stacks and the average pot size on the table.

Sometimes that'll mean entering with the full allowed amount and sometimes it means entering with less. For example last night on a 10c/20c game I sat down with just $10 and left when I'd brought it up to $60 about an hour later.

I think what you're saying makes sense as well though, but if I want to sit down at the 10c/20c table I "Should" have $40(max buyin) *15 in my account ($600?) it seems a bit expensive, but I can understand the logic behind it.

Shortstack

You would be best grinding away at $3 sit and goes and when you hit $100 move up to $5.

Alternatively try the micro limit cash games ie: 5c/10c NL and again move up as the bankroll increases.

I turned $1.71 into over $300 doing this but it takes a lot of patience and time.

Then I blew it the Omaha cash tables !

Shortstack

Iago wrote:

I'd never thought of it that way, I play at the micro limit levels either 10c/20c or 25c/50c and generally I'll view the table for a while and then sit down with enough to cover over half the table, based on their stacks and the average pot size on the table.

Sometimes that'll mean entering with the full allowed amount and sometimes it means entering with less. For example last night on a 10c/20c game I sat down with just $10 and left when I'd brought it up to $60 about an hour later.

I think what you're saying makes sense as well though, but if I want to sit down at the 10c/20c table I "Should" have $40(max buyin) *15 in my account ($600?) it seems a bit expensive, but I can understand the logic behind it.

Is the max buy in at 10c/20c really $40 ? Thats 200 * BB.

You don't need to have 15* as it is unlikely you will lose it all unless you are really bad. But one thing is to consider if you have a few bad beats in a row which is not uncommon, then your roll dwindles - do you then start played a bit scared because if it happens a couple more times your bankroll is shot ?
The 15* no. is more of a safety net to allow you to play without fear of busting completely.

Marq

Shortstack wrote:

Then I blew it the Omaha cash tables !

this has been the story of my week so far, building money at two table tournaments and losing it playing omaha.

DapperGent

yamaha is a cruel mistress.

F Fiesta

These systems don't work with people on a budget of 50 euro do they? I can't really apply any of this stuff to my own situation?

Imposter

F Fiesta wrote:

These systems don't work with people on a budget of 50 euro do they? I can't really apply any of this stuff to my own situation?

See post #7

BrendanB

I think on a 50 quid budget you can still play comfortably online, but I'd question doing it for profit, in that you'll earn more doing anything else you can think of. But you can reliably build playing small STTs and cash games. My problem whenever I'm playing micro-limit is that I'll play tight for twenty minutes and then take look down at 679J and get it all in preflop. But if you play a tight game (and holdem) I think you can do it grand.