New Driving Test Requirements - Technical Checks

Borzoi

See here for full details, but for cars it as below. More for motorbikes and HGVs on the site

Licence Categories B (Car), EB (Car with Trailer) and W (Work Vehicle)
Technical Checks.
You will be asked to explain how a check would be performed on any three of the following-
(a) tyres, (b) lights, (c) reflectors, (d) indicators, (e) engine oil, (f) coolant,
(g) windscreen washer fluid, (h) steering, (i) brakes, (j) horn.

Access to some of the items listed above will require you to open the bonnet and to close it securely.

gurramok

how do you check (a) ? (other than looking for a bald patch)
how would you check (h) and (i) exactly ?
I'm a full license driver and i bet there are many others on the road that dont know the same !

lomb

gurramok wrote:

how do you check (a) ? (other than looking for a bald patch)
how would you check (h) and (i) exactly ?
I'm a full license driver and i bet there are many others on the road that dont know the same !

A- quote minimum thread depth of 1.2mm and look at the wear indicators on tyre, look for cuts/bulges.

steering-check no free play and steering wheel not loose

brakes-check handbrake doesnt fall down when moved sideways. foot brake, check pedal not loose and moves down when engine starts

edmund_f

would be typical of the irish goverment to release this, and then a year later actually update their 'rules of the road' hand book to tell you how..

in my opinion

(a) tyres, turn wheels to left or right, look for uneven wear, also there are little 'wear blocks' in the grooves,threads, on the tyers, groove should be deeper than them

(b) lights.. easy.. get someone else to stand outside the car and tell you?

(c) reflectors.. clean and not cracked, mounted securely

(d) as for (b)

(e), (f), (g) engine oil etc., see your handbook, or any garage.

(h) steeering, only way i knwo is to get the car on an open level road at speed and the wheel should be straight, with no wobble, but that would also apply to tyre tracking.. sugenstions on this one?

(i) brakes.. assume seperate for handbrake and foot brake.. again, i would just drive at (slow) speed and jam on them, car should come to a halt quickly and in a straight line..

But of course everyone here does these checks before heading out on every journey?

cormie

I'm quite ignorant regarding the below, so I'll give my ideas of how, using common sense, I would go about doing them. If I make a fool of myself, please set me straight

(a) tyres- As said, check it thread dept is at least 1.2mm

(b) lights- turn on dimmers, check if all including back are ok, turn on main check again, turn on full check again. Also check indoor lighting on heater, milometer, gas, handbreak lights to look good:)

(c) reflectors, emmm. shine a torch on them? I can't even think where the reflectors on my car are

(d) indicators- switch left check front and rear, switch right, do same

(e) engine oil-leave engine running for a few minutes, have car on flat surface, open bonnet, lift out stick, wipe it, put it back in fully and see where the mark is on the stick in relation to that in the book.

(f) coolant- I don't know

(g) windscreen washer fluid- Well I don't know how to check how much is left, but to fill just open bonnet, open lid and poor water (usually 6L in)

(h) steering- as said

(i) brakes- as said

(j) horn-give it a blast???

Seth Brundle

@lomb - minimun tread depth is 1.6mm, if Im not mistaken, (throughout a continuous band comprising the central three quarters of the breadth of tread and round the entire other circumference of the tyre)

(a) also looks for tyre pressures, bulges, etc.
(h) & (i) require that you know how to check fluid levels. (i) also requires that you can check pedals etc. for looseness as lomb said

I wonder how many failures will happen because they didn't know how to check (j).

read this. It also suggests the following...

You must also know how to adjust the seat, seat-belt and mirrors and ensure that all the doors are closed fully.

seamus

I'd say it's going to be trial and error for a few months while instructors get feedback as to what the "right" answers are. Then they'll release a new ROTR (as said) :rolleyes:

cormie wrote:

(b) lights- turn on dimmers, check if all including back are ok, turn on main check again, turn on full check again. Also check indoor lighting on heater, milometer, gas, handbreak lights to look good:)

You really need two people to check the brake lights and indicators, but the best way I found is to reverse the car in front of a large white or light-coloured wall or door, and you should be able to see which lights are or aren't working. That's a funny one though - "How do you check your brake lights are working?" - "I get a mate to stand behind while I push the pedal" - "Correct" :rolleyes:

(c) reflectors, emmm. shine a torch on them? I can't even think where the reflectors on my car are

As someone else said, make sure they're mounted correctly (i.e. not about to fall off), and clean. If they're not clean they won't work.

(f) coolant- I don't know

Open up your bonnet and take a look at the place where you put in the coolant, there'll be "Max" and "Min" lines. Simple really. Make sure you know how much water/anti-freeze you should put in though.

(g) windscreen washer fluid- Well I don't know how to check how much is left, but to fill just open bonnet, open lid and poor water (usually 6L in)

Any car I've ever seen hasn't shown you how much is left (though I'm sure some do). You'll probably just be required to show where you fill it, and how high you should fill it.

(j) horn-give it a blast???

I guess so. A sustained blast though, 1 second or so, I'd say.

edmund_f

some of these questions..
a lot of of them are like; (going to get into lots of trouble for this, but anyway)

going for a gun license and being asked what a bullet is

going for a dog license and being asked what a leash is

going for a TV license is and be asked what a remote control is (and what are these 'battery' things you speak of?)


going for a ... feel free to add..

bp_me

cormie wrote:

(d) indicators- switch left check front and rear, switch right, do same

Or just press the hazard light button on the dash then look. Slightly less effort.

AFAIK you shouldn't even need to get out as they should flash far faster than normal to indicate a fault in the circuit, though this probably depends on the car you are driving.

edmund_f

bp_me wrote:

Or just press the hazard light button on the dash then look. Slightly less effort.

AFAIK you shouldn't even need to get out as they should flash far faster than normal to indicate a fault in the circuit, though this probably depends on the car you are driving.

maybe.. prefer to get out and check personally.. failsafe

as cormie sateted correctly check left (front, running and back) check right (front, running and back) for indicators

and as bp_me qualified, use hazard check all

this will check indicators and hazards are all working correctly.. sure there are clever cars out there that the hazard are on a seperate circuit (thinking they work when the ignition is off, whereas the indicators do not?)

Seth Brundle

seamus wrote:

I'd say it's going to be trial and error for a few months while instructors get feedback as to what the "right" answers are. Then they'll release a new ROTR (as said) :rolleyes:

IIRC there are plans (nothing definite then!) to release a new edition of the ROTR as the current one has the old speed limits which are also in mph.

bp_me wrote:

Or just press the hazard light button on the dash then look. Slightly less effort.

AFAIK you shouldn't even need to get out as they should flash far faster than normal to indicate a fault in the circuit, though this probably depends on the car you are driving.

Often with a blown bulb the hazards do not flash quicker. Usually only occurs when one indicator side or the other is operated.

cormie

And there could be possible errors in the indicator switch that wont turn them on the way the hazard button does???

Ok, I'm still not sure of that coolent thing, I've never been told about it nor have done it before. Where would I get anti-freeze?

Yeah, I thought of backing into a white van(not fully) and pushing the break lights.


So will you be asked to make these checks or expected to do them all before taking off yourself?



Just some little questions regarding the test:

If coming to a slower limit area, say from 80-50 etc, is it better to ease off the gas and let it go down to 50 without breaking or is it better to break closer to the new limit area to get down to 50?

Is driving in 5th gear going 25-30(mph) considered ok?

instead of having to dramatically turn your head for looking in the mirrors can you say you're looking instead (safer? all my mirrors can be used properly with just moving my eyes and not my head, well, I have to slightly move my head looking at the left wing mirror)

Are there many surprises in the test? I know you have to make a 3 point turn and reverse around a corner and all that, any p-parking tasks or anything?

Any other tips or pointers appreciated:)

edmund_f

cormie wrote:

And there could be possible errors in the indicator switch that wont turn them on the way the hazard button does???

Ok, I'm still not sure of that coolent thing, I've never been told about it nor have done it before. Where would I get anti-freeze?

Yeah, I thought of backing into a white van(not fully) and pushing the break lights.


So will you be asked to make these checks or expected to do them all before taking off yourself?



Just some little questions regarding the test:

If coming to a slower limit area, say from 80-50 etc, is it better to ease off the gas and let it go down to 50 without breaking or is it better to break closer to the new limit area to get down to 50?

i would imagine it would make very little difference?, gentle braking perhaps to show you have control of the car?


Is driving in 5th gear going 25-30(mph) considered ok?

if you are driving something with a huge amount of torque, e.g. 3.0l diesel, much wasier to go to 3rd or even 2nd, totally depends on the car


instead of having to dramatically turn your head for looking in the mirrors can you say you're looking instead (safer? all my mirrors can be used properly with just moving my eyes and not my head, well, I have to slightly move my head looking at the left wing mirror)

my trick.. you are meant to be looing at what is in your mirrors, not at them, so perhaps some pointed comments occasionally e.g. 'that polo is driving very close to me' etc..



Are there many surprises in the test? I know you have to make a 3 point turn and reverse around a corner and all that, any p-parking tasks or anything?

Any other tips or pointers appreciated:)

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=220550

Good luck in the test, soon as you pass it you can start learning how to drive!

Seth Brundle

cormie wrote:

Ok, I'm still not sure of that coolent thing, I've never been told about it nor have done it before. Where would I get anti-freeze?

Petrol station, motor factors, etc. It is usually labelled as coolant rather than anti freeze but it is a 2 in 1 product. Check that it suits your engine.

cormie wrote:

If coming to a slower limit area, say from 80-50 etc, is it better to ease off the gas and let it go down to 50 without breaking or is it better to break closer to the new limit area to get down to 50?

You should not need to brake as it shows tht you were going too fast and need to suddenly stop. You should just ease off the throttle as you approach the change of speed sign.

cormie wrote:

Is driving in 5th gear going 25-30(mph) considered ok?

I would suspect that it may be too much for the low speed and what could happen is that the car starts to buck and the tester accidentally marks red pen all over your test sheet!

cormie wrote:

instead of having to dramatically turn your head for looking in the mirrors can you say you're looking instead (safer? all my mirrors can be used properly with just moving my eyes and not my head, well, I have to slightly move my head looking at the left wing mirror)

Do what they want. They want to see you look not hear you look!

cormie wrote:

Are there many surprises in the test? I know you have to make a 3 point turn and reverse around a corner and all that, any p-parking tasks or anything?

If you can drive properly then there should be no difficulty. I don't know if you can manage a 3 point turn or parallel parking but if you can't then maybe you should learn irrespective of the test!

cormie wrote:

Is Any other tips or pointers appreciated:)

Don't stop unnecessarily on a dual carriageway!

Tobias Greeshman

I was thinking it wouldn't be long before they brought in checks like these in Ireland for testing. I know that in england that they have them, I done the Hibernian driving test thingie, and they made us do them. Useful for some girls who dont know there arse from their elbow when it comes to under the hood... thats not a dig at women, just the unknowledgeable ones!

Seth Brundle

trust_no_one wrote:

I was thinking it wouldn't be long before they brought in checks like these in Ireland for testing. I know that in england that they have them, I done the Hibernian driving test thingie, and they made us do them. Useful for some girls who dont know there arse from their elbow when it comes to under the hood... thats not a dig at women, just the unknowledgeable ones!

like my sister (bless her!) who phoned me up last year and told me that she had just poured a litre of oil into the cooling system of her fiat secinqicrappycento

Eoin

That's a funny one though - "How do you check your brake lights are working?" - "I get a mate to stand behind while I push the pedal" - "Correct"

That's the obvious test, but you can't rely on someone elses help in the test (it's like asking the instructor to adjust the side mirror for you - not allowed).

going for a TV license is and be asked what a remote control is (and what are these 'battery' things you speak of?)

More like being asked how to check that the circuitry is working OK? :rolleyes:

There are so many issues with the driving test already at the moment, I think they should be looking to reduce the year waiting list etc before they start with this crap.

seamus

cormie wrote:

And there could be possible errors in the indicator switch that wont turn them on the way the hazard button does???

Well, that's what I was thinking. It's reasonable to assume that your indicator switch may not work (i.e. may not turn on the lights) where your hazard does.

Ok, I'm still not sure of that coolent thing, I've never been told about it nor have done it before. Where would I get anti-freeze?

Check your manual for the location of the filler, and details on what kind of water/antifreeze mix you should have. You'd get antifreeze in any garage.

Yeah, I thought of backing into a white van(not fully) and pushing the break lights.

So will you be asked to make these checks or expected to do them all before taking off yourself?

Well, in accordance with the old test, the tester will him/herself check that your indicators and brake lights are working, as part of their safety check, so you won't be asked to actually do it, maybe just asked *how* you'd do it. I would say, if asked, your best bet is to say "Get a friend to stand behind the vehicle while I push the brake pedal"

If coming to a slower limit area, say from 80-50 etc, is it better to ease off the gas and let it go down to 50 without breaking or is it better to break closer to the new limit area to get down to 50?

Maybe a little of both. It's all about confidence. It's OK to be going a little over the limit while you slow down coming into a lower speed limit area. If you see the limit sign in plenty of time, decrease your acceleration to slow down gently. If you see it quite late (on a bend for example), ease off the accelerator and using gentle braking to increase the rate of deceleration. The key is smooth control of the vehicle.

Is driving in 5th gear going 25-30(mph) considered ok?

No.
I would say 3rd, but maybe 4th.

instead of having to dramatically turn your head for looking in the mirrors can you say you're looking instead (safer? all my mirrors can be used properly with just moving my eyes and not my head, well, I have to slightly move my head looking at the left wing mirror)

In theory, yes, but the tester won't always be looking at your eyes. At least if you're moving your head, he can see you looking even when he's looking at something else.

Are there many surprises in the test? I know you have to make a 3 point turn and reverse around a corner and all that, any p-parking tasks or anything?

Any other tips or pointers appreciated:)

The only real surprises will come from everyday driving. How you react to these is what will make up the bulk of your marks.

Boggle

I suppose its as handy to check that people know what these things are but it still doesn't address the fact that the test is not a true test under real driving conditions such as driving at night or on a main road, motorway, wet etc.
People only have to bluff the tester and steer a car around town for 15 minutes and voila, your qualified to kill people...

bang_bang_rosie

I just did my test in the north a few months ago and we have to do all these things, it's all quite handy really.

The correct answer for checking the brake lights is "if you don't have anyone to help you check, then use a white wall or reflective surface to check yourself"

As for the steering it refers to power steering and if it feels heavy then there is someting wrong.

You need to learn where all the places are for water, oil etc and where the max/min lines are. Most of them have symbols to help you.

We were told to use the hazard lights as a check for indicators.

We also had o show how to turn on our various lights like side lights, headlights etc.

Good luck for when you're doing it.

mike65

On the lights may I suggest they include a section on knowing how to change a blown bulb?!

Mike.

cormie

It only lasts 15 minutes? Wow!

Just about the lower limit; well what I do is ease off the accelerator before the lower limit, in fact, I like to test myself and try and time it exactly right so I will hit the exact new limit at the exact time of passing the sign The reason I asked though is because it says maintain the speed as close to the limit as possible in the test, and if I was dropping from 80 to 50 whilst still in an 80 zone (yes, I know the drop would only last 50 or so metres) would I be deducted marks.

I must check the manual for the anti-freeze so :rolleyes:

I'm handy with the 3 point turns. Even in my first lessons I was told they were fine, and I've had ALLOT of experience since then!

The parallel parking was really tricky at the start and I didn't even want to try, infact, I just went nose in first instead of rear (bad!!) but amazingly, if any of you have ever tried them parallel parking flash games online, they do help! I also read proper instructions on positioning etc which helped. It's also handy with a Nissan Micra!

Regarding changing gear, if I am in 5th gear on a long road that has a 50 limit, it seems fine, the engine doesn't seem to struggle etc. A good example is the road between loughlinstown hospital and turn off for cabinteely if anyone knows it. But of course, if i am in traffic, going around corners etc, I will lower the gear, but would I be deducted marks for being in 5th gear in the above circumstance?

This is a helpful place, thanks again.

Seth Brundle

bang_bang_rosie wrote:

We were told to use the hazard lights as a check for indicators.

As long as you get out and look at each light flash. Don't presume that just because the dash light is not swithing quickly that all is well.

mike65 wrote:

On the lights may I suggest they include a section on knowing how to change a blown bulb?!

unless you drive a new renault and you bring it to a dealer (would the tester believe this?)

cormie wrote:

Regarding changing gear, if I am in 5th gear on a long road that has a 50 limit, it seems fine, the engine doesn't seem to struggle etc. A good example is the road between loughlinstown hospital and turn off for cabinteely if anyone knows it. But of course, if i am in traffic, going around corners etc, I will lower the gear, but would I be deducted marks for being in 5th gear in the above circumstance?

Drive in a gear appropriate to the speed you are doing and ensuring in the back of your mind that you can quickly speed up if needs be (for evasive action possibly). If you are driving slowly in 4th or 5th then maybe you won't be able to plus it will take longer to accelerate! I would recommend getting someone who has driven for a while to sit with you and tell you if they think you should drop a gear or not.

cormie

I never used to drive in 5th in such areas until I was in the car with my dad and he was in 5th gear going about 25-30, so I started doing it then, of course, only in appropriate places, not round-abouts, or heavy traffic etc:) and empty road ahead of me or traffic moving at a moderate pace.

Boggle

Re what gear at 50kph: You'll be failed (marked) for using 5th gear at 30kph. Mostly depends on the car I suppose (what kind u got ?) but try to keep it in its comfort zone... in 5th gear you'll have real low rev's and F-all acceleration (as well as needing to unnecessarily change down if you have to slow even further. Use 3rd and 4th at this speed ... and get used to listening to the engine (turn off the radio a while) if u'v no rev counter cos you want to make sure you drive it as much as possible without getting your revs too high or low....

...Good luck and if its a chick give her a smile and a wink. Worked for me!

Seth Brundle

Just on this note - www.holylemon.com/drivingschool.html

cormie

Boggle wrote:

..failed (marked) for using 5th gear at 30kph.

You meant 50kph yeah?

I have no rev counter, I drive a 1L nissan micra, but I will be tested tomorrow for the provisional ignition in another car. I'll keep in 4th/3rd gear so:)

thanks again!

Seth Brundle

cormie wrote:

I have no rev counter, I drive a 1L nissan micra, but I will be tested tomorrow for the provisional ignition in another car. I'll keep in 4th/3rd gear so:)

A rev counter is really unnecessary. Learn your car, listen to it and how it revs. You will soon be able to tell if you are using excessive revs by the sound your engine is making. Eventually balance the throttle with the needs of the engine. A good example of revs/engine needs can be done by holding the car in gear on a hill without moving. Too many revs and the car will move, too little and she will cut out.

echomadman

Regarding the new aspects to the bike test, the section regarding "walking alongside"

6. Walk Alongside.
You will be asked to move the machine approximately 4/5 metres without the aid of the engine. The machine may be moved forward or backward.

I rarely walk alongside the bike, generally if i'm moving it about without the engine i sit on it and move it by walking it backwards/forwards so i have easy access to the brakes, will this be acceptable?
I have however pushed the fúcking thing for 3 or 4 miles along the dual carraigeway in the past, so i've had a lot of practise at both.

seamus

echomadman wrote:

I rarely walk alongside the bike, generally if i'm moving it about without the engine i sit on it and move it by walking it backwards/forwards so i have easy access to the brakes, will this be acceptable?

I'm not sure, but I wouldn't think so. Sounds to me like that's to check if you're familiar with the bike, and controlling its weight when pushing it.
There'll probably be a special "driving test only" technique for it too, like having to hold both handles :rolleyes:. I push mine with one hand on the handlebar, and one on the rack at the back (even has a hand-sized hole to grip onto). That way, if it starts to fall over either way, I can put my whole weight into centering it again.

unkel

kbannon wrote:

minimun tread depth is 1.6mm

Legal minimum is indeed 1.6mm, but the generally accepted minimum when you should change your tyres is 2.0mm