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laminate flooring diy help

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  • 01-02-2005 2:04pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭


    put down a laminate floor last weekend,
    put in the plastic spacers,

    and last night removed the spacers to put in the
    cork expansion gaps.

    thing is it wasnt exactly plush at the side,
    not the same gap all round the sides.
    i filled what i could, sometime using 2/3 bits of cork,
    other times squeezing it in. Some of the cork comes
    above the level of the floor though.

    ill be getting the beading today to go around the end of the
    skirting board but need to get a big ish bit
    (some gaps are 30mm beween skirting and boards.)

    Also should i try to get a beading that has a gap behind,
    so that the extra cork won't matter and ill be able to hide cables
    etc behind it... do these exist?

    or will i have to remove any excess cork?
    :confused:


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,346 ✭✭✭✭KdjaCL


    Should be 10mm between end of floor and wall as it will expand and impand ( :D) due to heat , 30mm sounds big hope your skirtung board is think to cover it :)

    if not will look awful.

    kdjac


  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭whiteshadow


    i didn't take the skirting board up.
    just put the floor down and hoping to
    get beading thick enough to go around the edges
    then ill nail/glue the beading to the skirting so the
    floor is still 'floating'

    just hope that the cork is not an issue.
    and that i can get beading that has a gap behind it
    instead of a right-angle (quarter circle) beading.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Borzoi


    ill be getting the beading today to go around the end of the
    skirting board but need to get a big ish bit
    (some gaps are 30mm beween skirting and boards.)
    :

    You don't need to put cork into the expansion gaps if you intend to cover them with a piece of beading anyway.

    30mm gap will look terrible, at that sort of gap you should cut a strip of floor to 20-25mm width without too much difficulty and add it on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭whiteshadow


    no cork?

    i thought you had to have cork.
    the cork helps the floor from moving up and down in the corners
    and from expanding/contracting too much no?

    anyway an update.
    i got a nice 2 inch beading, well actually wooden coving with space behind
    it. looks quite like
    http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/prodpics/large/EMA525A01.jpg except less
    ornate. if i stain it and use panel pins to nail it on i reckon it'll look sweet and
    will cover cork and leave space for cables if i like.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,346 ✭✭✭✭KdjaCL


    The floor will move , unless its the heavy non floating kind. Its supposed to move just the 10 mm gap keeps it from popping up and bubbling.

    redoing it would take a while but if you cna hide it and still have room for it to impand (its not even a word ) expand you should be fine , just dont block it or it goes horribly bendy.

    kdjac


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  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭whiteshadow


    KdjaC wrote:
    ...redoing it would take a while but if you cna hide it and still have room for it to impand (its not even a word ) expand you should be fine , just dont block it or it goes horribly bendy.

    So do you think i should take the cork back out and leave it 'floating'
    if i am going to cover up the edges anyway?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Assuming you only have the cork in at intermediate spacing , and not packed tightly, you should be ok. As stated earlier a 25 mm fillet strip along the largest gap is the order of the day here. There would be minimal expansion in a laminate floor as opposed to a timber floor. You should have had a data information sheet with your laminate floor, check it out.

    kadman :)


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