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New Bannisters/Dry lining

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  • 24-01-2005 1:49pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 94 ✭✭


    Hi,

    I wonder if anyone could help me with a few things. I am currently renovating a 70's house from hell and have a load of things to sort. One is to replace the hideous bannisters, while I also have to dry line a number of the walls. Can anyone give an idea of the cost of replacing the bannisters (the old ones were wrought iron things so the base that the are set into would also have to be taken up I assume). I am looking to get wooden bannisters but will be painting all except the handrail while so I expect I will go for the cheapest wood (deal perhaps?). The staircase is approx 8m long (4m with a small return and then another 4 metres. The second thing I need to do (amongst many more) is to dry line some of the interior walls (I assume I need only dry line those walls that back onto the exterior). Can someone give an approximate cost of having a wall dry lined? Any recommendations on tradesmen/companies that do this would be great,

    thanks

    Jack


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 697 ✭✭✭Cionn


    I can't give you a price but I know that B&Q have a section with all that is needed to install bannister with leaflets to help you out. Might be worth a trip out there.

    Cionn


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 94 ✭✭jack24


    Thanks Cionn,

    Unfortunately I don't have the time to put in in myself. I did see their range (think it's by the same people that do their decks, Burbidge?) but I think this will be a case of 'getting a man in'. Thanks for the advice,

    Jack


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 1,919 Mod ✭✭✭✭karltimber


    Please please do not buy any wooden products from woodies or b&q. Especially not stair parts. I recently put in a new stairs ( handrail & balisrades) and the above stores have rubbish. Look up your yellow pages and find the nearest joiner or joiner supplier- he will have/ or give info to find 50mm square ballisrades plus hand and base rail(which are good solid deal ---and not the 35mm sq b&q crap).

    Then get a chippy in to install - best bet..

    Dry -lining ---- best bet is to glue insulated plasterboard -again from your local builders providers. 8*4' sheets with 1 1/2" blue foam on the back. They are put agianst a clean dustfree etc wall and glued with joint filler.

    Then get them skimmed or just skim the joints and paper or paint.

    this is what I would do.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,002 ✭✭✭mad m


    There is a place on the Greenhills road which i think are still there,they are called "Clondalkin Partitions".Just as your going up hill right before there is a very steep dip in road leading down to an housing estate there is a small business park on the left and its in there.

    Just go in and before you do count how many steps you have going up your stairs and they will know how much stuff you need.They do all sorts of handrails and complete new stairs to your specs if i remember correctly.I got mine few years back just the spindles and handrail and filler peices and newel posts for under 200punts at time...

    Check them out anyway.

    Dry lining if as you say only exterior walls then get the Foam covered stuff but you will either have to batten the walls first with treated 2x1 or im not sure if you can just blob it on to wall using a mixture of bonding compond.Get some screed tape for joints.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 94 ✭✭jack24


    Thanks for all the advice lads,

    On the subject of the bannisters I had a quote yesterday for €1,100 for the job (I have shown below what he was supplying, not so sure about the spelling). Sounds like it was a bit high?

    The bannister itself was pine with a teak handrail,

    2 X 5ft square posts (stop campher)
    1 X 5ft Square (Double 95 x 190)
    1 5ft 1/2 post
    13 & 9 handrail
    13 capping
    9 sole rail

    Some of it reads like double dutch (if i have even written it down correctly, his writing was a bit hard to read and I wasnt there when he gave the quote), essentially it was a quote for the constituent parts of 13 metre staircase . Any thoughts? On getting a chippy to do it, is that a yellow pages job, or would I be as well to look up someone in the guild of master craftsman (for what its worth) - always wary of getting someone in without recommendations.

    Thanks

    Jack


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    You need a joiner as opposed to a chippy, someone who has experience of stair construction, including, as in your case , incorporating a winder. The most important part of your stair rebuild is the re installation of your newel posts, especially the double post. The strength of your bannisters will depend on how well installed the posts are. Whether they are just cut and screwed, or installed with base support. The best advice is to see some of your chippies previous stair repair. Its all too easy to turn your good materials into scrap wood. Apart from the aspect of installing all components to match building regs. :)

    kadman


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,497 ✭✭✭rooferPete


    Hi,

    I assume you are dry lining the outside walls to conserve heat and / or possibly stop dampness ?.

    Either way the plaster board must be away from the wall using pre-treated timbers described above.

    Also air must be able to circulate in the void created by the timber and preferably vent to the outside of the building.

    My personal preferance is to use the insulation seperate to the plaster board as you can get a full 25mm of insulation behind the board as opposed to the 12mm standard insulation attached to the board.

    As to cost you are really shooting in the dark because a lot depends on the condition of your walls and the finish you want, either tape and joint filler or a skimmed finish, then you have quantity, access, location etc.

    Using a blob and fix or a glue system is fine if you are looking to improve the finish of an internal wall, however in my opinion the lath system is better as it is almost equal to fitting a seperate wall inside the external wall.


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