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Changing 4 gang light switch to smart switch

  • 10-12-2025 12:14PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,889 ✭✭✭


    I'm wanting to change a 4 way switch I have in my kitchen to a 4 way smart switch.

    The first switch (far left) controls outdoor lights and is 1 way.
    The 2nd switch controls a light in the roof in the kitchen and is 1 way.
    The 3rd switch controls another light in the kitchen and is 2 way (another lightswitch elsewhere in the kitchen for the same light)
    The 4th switch currently does nothing but is meant to be connected to a cable that goes outside and is buried under one of our patio tiles incase we ever need to get power outside (guess we could hook up a plug to it or whatever).

    Basically I have the smart switch as pictured and need to know how I go about wiring it. It needs the neutral wire but as you can see 3 neutral wires go into a Wago currently so I am a touch unsure of what to do here. Do I leave 1 in the wago box and put the the other 2 into the 2 N connectors on the smart switch? I'm not fussed if I have to now make the 3rd switch which is a 2 way switch into a 1 way switch to get it all to work but obviously would be ideal to get it as a 2 way switch.

    The earth wires as you can see are all connected together and then connect to the backplate.

    The LIVE wire I think is the wire that goes into the COMMON on the 4th switch and then you can see another brown wire joins that to the 2nd and then also to the 1st switch. The brown wire that has the white shielding that goes into COMMON on the 3rd switch I assume is connected to the other light switch that also controls the same light?

    I am unsure why there are no wires in the L1/L2 of the 4th switch though and also a touch unsure of why there is a L1 and L2 for the 3rd switch which is the 2 way one.

    Not super electrical but I'm well able to sort it if I know what to do and follow safety standards. Any help would be appreciated as I'm sure calling an electrician to do this would cost 100 quid.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,889 ✭✭✭MuddyDog


    What I think I need to do is:

    Use the LIVE going into the COMMON on switch 4 as the L in the smart switch and pigtail that to the other L in the smart switch.

    Use switch 1 L1 as the L1 in the smart switch gang 1
    Use switch 2 L1 as the L2 in the smart switch gang 1

    Use the common from switch 3 as the L1 in the smart switch gang 2.
    Get a 4 port WAGO and put the 3 neutral wires in there and then for the 4th port pigtail to another 3 way wago and then from the spare 2 ports in the 3 way wago connect each one to each N of the smart switch.

    Put switch 3 L1 and L2 wires into a new 2port Wago as they aren't needed.

    Post edited by MuddyDog on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,818 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I typed this earlier but had to walk away:

    A neutral needs to run from the Wago to the two controllers - you'll need to install a 4-way Wago and then loop off that and into controller 1 and controller 2.

    Perm live needs to go into L on each controller, so I'd probably install a Wago on the incoming perm-L and loop from there to the controllers and also to the COMMON on the 4th switch (if that's really where it goes).

    Do you have a diagram for the controllers at all, I'm presuming that L is a common supply to all four outputs, and if so I'm not sure how you can have a 2-way with this switch controller…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,889 ✭✭✭MuddyDog


    Yes, here's the smart switch. It's basically 2 controllers on 1 faceplate. That's why I figure I have to pigtail the L's of the smart switch as I only have one perma LIVE in the backplate.

    IMG_20251210_120544 (1).jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,889 ✭✭✭MuddyDog


    I'd also be more than happy if someone knew of a 4 way switch that just had the 1 controller on the back for all 4 as I wouldn't need to mess around with pigtailing neutrals and lives then!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,226 ✭✭✭Sleamhain


    You will do well to get that switch wired and pushed back into that back box I think, tricky enough on a 4 gang switch even for a sparks who is used to doing it.

    You don't necessarily need a 4 way wago. You could pop one of the neutrals out and put it in the switch and then loop back from there to the wago.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,226 ✭✭✭Sleamhain


    And if the other end of cable that's wired out under your patio is in that switch box, don't ever put a socket on the end of it

    That's a lighting circuit, not a socket circuit and shouldn't be used as so. Cable prob wouldn't be the right size. May not have RCD protection either



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 272 ✭✭JL spark


    some **** show that switch , how old is the wiring ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,889 ✭✭✭MuddyDog


    Brand new extension it's in. About 18 months old.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 272 ✭✭JL spark


    very poor work , out door armour cable not glanded properly in the back box , have you any certificate for the works ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,889 ✭✭✭MuddyDog


    No. However it looks unconnected. It is just sitting in there ready to be attached if ever needed?

    Getting off topic now too. Any better 4 gang smart switches that would just have 1 connector at the back rather than 2 and would save a bit of pigtailing?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,984 ✭✭✭meercat


    agree with others about condition of that switch and how unlikely it’ll be to get your new switch fitted properly into that box

    My advice is to fit your new switch adjacent to the existing switch and extend the cables that you require to use to your new switch


    either fit a blank plate or leave existing switch with some unused switches



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,889 ✭✭✭MuddyDog


    Yeah I don't fancy using a blank plate in the new build as it'll look a bit odd where it is! I'll try and wire it up anyway and see if I can make it fit. If not, will keep looking for a 4 gang smart switch with 1 connector box at the back rather than 2 which will give me a bit more room for the backbox. Any recommendations there?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,999 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    as others have alluded I don’t see you getting that dimmer into that box. With the cables coming in rear entry they are going to make screwing the plate up flat very difficult.
    You might be able to get some sort of collar to bring it out but generally that makes it look crap.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,984 ✭✭✭meercat


    careful screwing the cover plate back on. The screw is nearly touching the cables


    IMG_4825.jpeg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,984 ✭✭✭meercat


    change your existing switch for a 3 gang and don’t use one of the switches. You can get a 3 gang on a double plate. Try getting one to match your Wi-Fi switch

    Install a double box flush tight beside your existing switch

    Extend the required cables to your new switch(there’ll be room to do so in your existing switch)

    There now should be plenty of room for your Wi-Fi dimmers in the new box

    2 X 2 plate switches side by side will look fine



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,889 ✭✭✭MuddyDog


    Thanks. That's the cable that goes outside and isn't attached to anything but will be wary of it if I ever hook it up.



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