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No Flow in New Radiator Zone

  • 16-11-2025 02:31PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 709 ✭✭✭


    I've recentely connected a new single radiator my existing flow and return of my solid fuel boiler. When I close the house valves it functions. Where when the house is open that is the easiest flow and my new single radiator doesnt get warm.

    The pipes on the right is my new radiator. The pipes on the left are my house zone.

    Where am I going wrong?

    Lockheed and TRV fully open.

    There was an error displaying this embed. 1000075150.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,734 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Interesting floating set-up there. That piping needs support.

    Tighten-up the lock-shield valves on the original rads to decrease the flow somewhat and balance out the system.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 951 ✭✭✭Escapees


    Given that the OP is adding a rad to the system, I'd really hope that they understand about balancing a system! The setup reminds me of the 'house that Jack built' and the description of what's what is not clear at all...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 709 ✭✭✭Theanswers


    Hey Lads.

    Thanks for the feedback.

    It is a very interesting setup for sure. Has served us well for a couple of months. The new single radiator is in an old stable that I've converted to a home office. The reason for the floating setup is the manifold is faulty, and as such it needs replaced. It was a quick job to get us going.

    I've balanced the system somewhat by reducing the flow valve to the house, but I will do so via the lock-shields in the house. Reducing the flow did get the radiator working in the office (somewhat). I'm 100% not a plumber but did get this sold fuel boiler going from scratch and working well. Will tidy up once manifold is repaired and make more presentable/ neat.

    Let me try lock shields. Maybe 1/4 turn, then 1/8 turn the further away I get?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 951 ✭✭✭Escapees


    If all the rads in the house are on the same circuit, then you'd think that what you did already should do the job of balancing the two circuits. That's assuming you have a suitable degree of control with the valve in question.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 709 ✭✭✭Theanswers


    That's what I thought.

    But it's just barely got the water reaching the other radiator. If I close the house the office radiator is boiling hot.

    Now, another potential solution I'm thinking of is moving the house pump to serve the return only for the house and installing a second pump to serve the return from the office.

    Kinda like a home made manifold. The extra power might help the office if there is resistance.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,302 ✭✭✭Buffman


    If the house circuit is already fairly well balanced I'd just use that ball valve you have serving it (bottom left of your photo) to fine tune the 2 circuits to get a bit of flow down your bypassed new addition. Save you running all over the house adjusting individual rads.

    Very small adjustments until you get it satisfactory.

    The below is a general 'signature' and not part of any post:

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.

    Public transport user? If you're sick of phantom ghost services on the 'official' RTI sources, check bustimes.org for actual 'real' RTI, if it's on their map it actually exists.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 951 ✭✭✭Escapees


    By 'close the house', I presume you mean shut off every individual rad. In which case you should get the same result as shutting the flow valve to the house circuit, unless that valve isn't fully shutting off the circuit. Maybe I'm misunderstanding something here...

    In terms of a second pump, I wonder could you instead just increase the speed setting of your current pump if that's an option.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,212 ✭✭✭standardg60


    Expecting the water to make a 90 degree turn of it's own volition is your issue here, you need an equal angle splitter connection instead of the T if they exist.



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