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Picatinny Rails

  • 28-10-2025 12:43PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭


    Is there any difference between picatinny rails made in China or ones made in Europe. What is the best configuration, means of tightening one on an 11mm dovetail.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,240 ✭✭✭clivej


    Best to get the rail that fits your rifle.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Thanks Clive. Are not all 11mm dovetail rails the same.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 321 ✭✭keith s


    I find Contessa well made and generally have specific rail for your rifle, so they fit well. They are heavy (well) made.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 276 ✭✭dalalada


    Huge differences:

    cheap materials, poor machining, sloppy tolerances means more risk of accessories shifting, loose mounting, screws backing out. If you want high or low profile heights aswell. I’d try to buy from a precision company like magpull or Midwest industries not some random Temu. I’d also recommend UTG / Leapers in UK.

    Basically the higher the recoil the more you should spend on the rails.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 895 ✭✭✭zeissman


    What rifle is it for?

    I would agree with Clive and get one that's made for your rifle . It will be the right length and if there is a cut out for the ejection port it will be in the right place.

    I have a EGW one on my tikka t1x and I got a MDT one for my mates CZ 455.

    both are very good rails .



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    It will be put on an air rifle and a .22 WMR. Does it make any difference as to how it is tightened on to the dovetail rail. As in tightened from the top or side tightened.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,240 ✭✭✭clivej


    I have a Roedale on my Sako 75, great bit of kit. Specially made to fit Sako's tapered rail. Bought many for my 22lr CZ rifles over the years. The CZ have a flat top 11mm dovetail. 6 grub screws to tighten down. And have a picatinny for my Anschutz 1710. This rifle has a round ish dovetail on top of the action.

    So you'd need to buy a rail with the type of dovetail that your rifle has. Look here for picatinny rails

    https://www.diproductsinc.com/default.aspx?PAGE=Main%20Page



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    So there is no mechanical connection between the rail and the action. As in not screwed in to the action. But more of a compression fit.

    Should I get a return to zero if I remove my Pard 008. Put a non dedicated NV unit on it and then replace the Pard again.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 321 ✭✭keith s


    If you want exact return to zero, or very close and reliable, id say you'd need to spend a few €€€. Your rings / mounts and rail need to both have that guarantee.

    As reference, I paid for an expensive rail and then 2 sets of rings (a set to live on each scope), expecting return to zero. When I wasn't getting the results I expected, I emailed the company who provided the rail, to be told that it was not return to zero with the rings I purchased..

    I would classify "return to zero" as proven ability to swap scopes and not have to confirm zero by going to the range after swapping scopes.

    Obviously you initially need to test and validate your setup at the range, but once done then you no longer need to confirm zero, until you change ammunition, change zero range or need to validate again for some reason.

    Eu trade optics are very helpfull, either their YouTube videos or contact them to explain what you have and your desired setup.

    Post edited by keith s on


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