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Cistern- Bottom Entry Inlet Valve Issues (Siamp)

  • 27-05-2025 06:41PM
    #1
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 25,597 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Have been having issues with my toilet filling for ages now and am determined to DIY it.

    First issue was the filling very slowly after flushing.
    I tried some blind adjustments and while it started to fill smartly, I then had the issue of constant overfilling into the pan (yay).

    I've since replaced the inlet float fill washer with a selection I got online, and while they seem to seal alright, the float does not stop the water flow - which frankly could be coming from anywhere in this old piece of hardware.

    IMG_9695.jpg

    So I decided to replace the whole inlet piece, and bought a new setup online to fit the hole in the cistern.

    My problem now is while every youtube video online has a new easy set of removable pipe going in, my pipes are barely accessible and seem to have no room to even screw off the bottom on the current inlet valve.

    IMG_9694.jpg


    My question is - how am I supposed to drop the brass nut below the tube of the inlet valve when there's nowhere to go!

    Do I need to remove the cistern from the pan? Because that sounds like a potentially irreversible nightmare. 😆

    Any help from the good people of Boards appreciated.


    EDIT: I might add that some overflow pipe in the eaves of the house has started spitting water out over the last few days since I started messing with the toilet…. co-incidence? 🧐



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,014 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    One thing to try… with the water off, open the horizontal nut fully and then pull the pipe out of the joint, then rotate it out of the way.

    image.png

    Just mind the push-fittings (with the green insert) they might start to weep if they get some rough handling.

    Refitting is the reverse of disassembly (as the Haynes manual says).

    If that doesn't work, then cut the feed pipe and replace it with a flex-loop with an isolator valve on it. They are only around a tenner.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 25,597 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dades


    Two good options there, thanks. 🙏

    If that horizontal nut doesn't seem too reluctant, maybe I could try the rotating idea.
    I am concerned about springing a leak though it looks like these pipes have been in that position for a long time.

    If replacing them with a flex loop wasn't too difficult, I'd probably go that direction.

    How would I attach one of the ends of a flex loop to the existing wall pipe? I assume it attaches somehow to the chalky looking pipe coming from the wall?

    Does it just squeeze seal the connection with no threads? Need to know the exact size I guess.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,397 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Is the valve screwed into the brass fitting or is the brass fitting screwed onto the valve?

    Sounds the same but if the valve can be dismantled in situ you may end up with not much more than a pipe sticking up in the cistern. Then you can leave the brass fitting alone and unscrew the plastic riser out of it?

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,014 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/viva-flexible-hose-1-2-isolator-x-female-150mm-2323151.html?filter_set%5B%5D=2699,4063,4128

    Something like this ^.

    The left side of that pipe has a compression fitting, it goes over the existing 'chalky' pipe (you need to clean off any paint if it's not already clean) and then apply some PTFE tape to the olive (the brass ring), then tighten it all up to compress the fitting all together so that it's watertight. Look for Youtube demos on how to do that. Then run the other end over to the right-side of that 90-degree bend, and install it there.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 25,597 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dades


    All I know is that valve pipe is very firmly wedged into the brass fitting. Turning the brass fitting (with huge difficulty given access) also turns the value pipe. I've no leverage to separate them below, and removing the value hardware in situ leaves a flimsy stick of plastic that is begging to be broken if I try to somehow separate them above!



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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 25,597 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dades


    If I'm adding one of those isolator hoses, could I not lose all the other fittings and just hook one end of it up to the bottom of my new inlet valve, and one end to the wall pipe?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,014 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Nope, you need to convert down from the larger size to 1/2".



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,397 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    If you are replacing it then it doesn't matter if its broken. If you undo the plastic nuts (one in the cistern and one below) then it should unscrew with a basin wrench on the inside of the cistern.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/DURATECH-Basin-Wrench-11inch/dp/B0B293GXYX/

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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