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Fixing hole in plaster board

  • 16-02-2025 08:45PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,320 ✭✭✭


    Looking for options, hole is about size of tennis ball, it needs to be strong enough to hold a centre thingy for a curtain pole.

    Do I fill with a filler type material, best material to use???

    Or

    Cut out damaged square area and re place with new un damaged bit of plaster board, and patch up??

    Preference is to fill, but open to change.

    Thanks



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,808 ✭✭✭worded


    Try you tube for ideas / tutorials ?

    Best of luck ...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 216 ✭✭Tippbhoy1


    Put 2 pieces of timber in behind the hole, 2 or 3 times the width of the hole, and screw them into place either side. Fill hole, or use a piece of cut plasterboard, and fill over the whole thing and the screws. Sand and paint.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,728 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    That's what I'd do as it then allows you to screw the curtain rail into wood for support afterwards. Use a piece of plasterboard for sure, filler won't hold over a large patch.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,320 ✭✭✭rje66


    How easy is it to get a decent finish on the joints and will something like polyfilla be ok to use,

    I'm OK at diy....



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,728 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    If using the Polyfilla Easy Sand stuff then relatively easy. Fill it in layers and hit it with 180 grit sandpaper and using a finger to work specifically on the highest areas. Don't forget to sink the screws below the plasterboard slightly and fill them too.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 365 ✭✭pjdarcy


    Here's a pretty simple method OP. Just make sure you don't cut into any wires or pipes in the wall. Ignore the German in the link, there's no talking in the actual video.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,621 ✭✭✭✭rob316


    dont use polyfilla, get something in the toupret brand in powder.

    Cut a square out of the plasterboard, bit bigger than your hole, stick a piece of timber in, screw it into the plasterboard, put a new piece of plasterboard in, screw into the timber. fill the gaps with filler, mesh or paper tape over the gaps and filler patch to a finish.

    There is honestly a million videos on this on youtube.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,728 ✭✭✭10-10-20




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,179 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    what is behind the wall ? Is it a stud wall or brick wall. ? Drill into the brick for the curtain rail



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,320 ✭✭✭rje66


    Need to check, but probably block, Ted



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,728 ✭✭✭10-10-20




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,470 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I would check before you do anything.

    I am presuming the hole is due to the bracket pulling away from the wall? If so, your repair is going to be weaker so probably suffer the same fate, only worse as it will pull more off the wall.

    For curtain poles I would either (starting with least effort)

    Fix a length of timber, painted to match the wall colour, from left to right, fixed into the wall battens and then fix the curtain brackets to that

    OR

    as already suggested, drill into the underlying wall, though depending on the gap, this might be prone to still breaking/cracking.

    OR

    open the plasterboard and fix some timber to the brick/block wall and then refix the plasterboard. Then fix the brackets to the hidden timber, through the plasterboard.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,320 ✭✭✭rje66


    Cheers, should be ok with the basic method...kids arseacting pulled it down.

    No real weight issue



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 216 ✭✭Tippbhoy1



    If you have a drill you can get small sanding attachments with fine sandpaper that will give you a near perfect finish with a bit of patience.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,320 ✭✭✭rje66


    Cheers, have all the tools.....just not the knowledge



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,470 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Less is more with filler, its easier to add more than it is to remove extra, though modern fillers are a lot easier to sand.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,891 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    I'm interested to know why would you say not to use Polyfilla.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,621 ✭✭✭✭rob316


    Get a Toupret product and you will see the difference. Anytime I've used polyfilla, takes too long to dry, grittier, it can also flash (show through the paint).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,891 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    I appreciate that everyone can have a different opinion, but as someone who has been painting for 30 years I don't hold Toupret in the same regard as Polyfilla. I used Toupret interior filler that was supplied by the customer to fill these cracks in a ceiling and wall. Sanded and repainted the ceiling and as you can see it all shrunk. I had to re fill with Polyfilla and repaint the whole area again. As you can appreciate, things like this can set you whole time schedule back hugely.

    I can say that Polyfilla takes any longer to dry than any other brands of filler either.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,620 ✭✭✭Kaisr Sose


    Thanks for this video. The second method is interesting. I watched some of Kirks stuff before. The bathroom refurb video with Roger Bisby (aka Skil Builder) critiquing it was very good, as was the standard of Kirks plumbing!



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