Engine fault code.

blade1

This has popped up in my 2013 is300h.

Would it usually just be a case of replacing the sensor?

User1998

Not necessarily, it usually means the timing is out. Possibly a new timing chain needed.

blade1

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122595049#Comment_122595049

I wouldn't have thought a chain would need replacing after 70k

User1998

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122595142#Comment_122595142

Its one of the possibilities. I’ve had the fault before and had to do the chain. That being said I’ve bought and sold a good few Prius’s and they always seem to have that camshaft position fault on them. Similar set up as your Lexus

Rows Grower

Almost certainly not a timing chain issue with such low mileage. Lexus chains are meant to be a lifetime job and (touch wood) I've never heard of anyone having to replace one.

I'd guess it's something really minor, the build quality is supreme but even on older models the computer is so sensitive it throws up serious looking warnings for minor issues.

I couldn't start my car one time and a fault reading came up on the screen that I immediately thought was going to be an expensive fix. When I googled on my phone I discovered I hadn't screwed in the petrol cap properly.

You surely would have gotten some indication from driving it if it was anything serious out of place.

blade1

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122595191#Comment_122595191

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122595196#Comment_122595196

The only time I've had a timing chain issue was on a turbo petrol Audi with 130k miles and that was down to wear on the chain guide and not the chain.

I know it's a different car but my lexus has no rattle and pretty much still sounds like a brand new engine.

Gets oil change every year which as you can tell by the milage is way under the milage recommendation.

When the fault popped up, I connected a Bluetooth ob2 reader to port and the engine management light, for some reason, disappeared.

I continued to do a scan anyway and even though the light went out, it still logged the fault.

That's why my first thoughts were a faulty sensor.

mk7r

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122595049#Comment_122595049

If you read the code it's a circuit high input, this cannot have anything to do with the timing chain it's purely a circuit fault.

It's likely the sensor but it may be a broken wire or voltage drop issue etc

-=al=-

Are theres there any start/cutting out issues or is it just the logged fault? Could just be a case of replacing the sensor

blade1

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122595996#Comment_122595996

No, car seems to be running perfectly.

beachhead

Will be buying an OBD2 scanner soon for my Merc diesel.Any recommendations? DIY level,not professional.

blade1

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122596100#Comment_122596100

I just have a Bluetooth adapter with years and Car Scanner Pro app that cost €5.99 for life

beachhead

Had a look at Car Scanner Pro.But about the bluetooth adaptor?

blade1

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122597847#Comment_122597847

I have an elm 327 but I know there is/was a lot of fakes out there.

I think there is also a version 2.1 that doesn't work with somethings.

I've my one so long I'm not sure if there are better options out there now.

I'm sure someone else on here would have a better knowledge than me on whats best to use these days.

beachhead

Yes,a lot of Chinese made stuff out there.Some at peanut prices and other gold prices for the same model

beachhead

No more up to date responses on OBD scanner that does what it claims.

blade1

Just an update on this.

Havent sorted it yet as it goes off itself and reappears and so on.

blade1

Think I've the culprit.

Exhaust cam sensor.

Somebody has previously heatshrinked the wires.

blade1

Not getting much time to see to this properly at the moment but I did swap over the sensor with the other cam sensor and I still get the same fault code so I now know the sensor isn't part of the problem.

When I do get the time I will probably wire in a new connector and pray that that's it sorted.

If not I will need to seek expert help.

Could anyone tell me are those connectors easily available?

Definitely not a factory job.

blade1

Had to have a closer nose while there.

Pulled back the conduit and found nsulating tape gone hard exposing naked wire.

And wires were broken at the pins only to be soldered together.

Not a great fix but I suppose it did last the 8 years I have the car.

cml387

Home bodged. A bit like I'd do.

JP 1800

Those are AMP type connectors and there are numerous types. Thay can be expensive for what they are. Some motor factors sell them with pins. That repair failed as they soldered directly to the pin which would fatigue over time and break. The best way to repair would be to strip back the ends of the wires if you have enough length on the loom and crimp on new pins. The crimp will allow some flexibility in the connection to resist vibrational fatigue. That's why automotive wiring has many strands of thin wire in place of a few thick strands. The many thin strands resist vibrational fatigue. Soldering on the pins causes fatigue.

JP 1800

If you don't have enough length you will need to extend the loom with suitable wiring. This can be soldered as long as it is secured and won't vibrate. The ends with the pins for the connectors will need to be crimped as I mentioned above. Heat shrink the individual wires then over the bunch on the loom. Finish off with cloth loom tape for max protection.

blade1

@ JP 1800 I've ordered a few connectors mainly because they come with pins attached to the wires.

I'll be using self soldering connectors to join the new wires to the existing wires.

blade1

Got home at 4pm and there was a little packet on the doorstep which contained these little babies

Tore into it straightaway.

About a 15 minute job and added a little bit of new conduit to it as well.

Looks like the operation was a success 🤞