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Advice on patching up walls after removing built in wardrobe

  • 26-08-2024 9:33pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 141 ✭✭


    Hi,

    I removed an old built in wardrobe in a box room and was left with some plaster on the gable wall (the interior of the old wardrobe), then a gap with exposed brick, and then rest of the gable wall of the bedroom. So I am looking at patching up the exposed brick so I can repaint the whole room.

    Talked to a guy in a hardware store and he recommended just using ProForm joint compound on the brick, then sanding it smooth and painting.

    Have got about half way through and the joint compund is cracking a lot when drying.

    See attached pictures of what I was left after removing the wardrobe and then the current state.

    Is this expected? How to I proceed to finish this out so I can repaint the whole gable wall?

    Thanks in advance



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    You could have used bonding to fill the deep gap. Would be solid in 20 mins and then filler to finish.

    Stick with it now. Let it dry well. Will take a few days and go again with the filler.

    Personally for filling work, I use powder joint filler. Sets very quick and can be used at varying consistency from very dry to almost paint like.

    You need to cover the screw marks too and also do the corner. Ideally you should get a corner trowel to make it easier.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 693 ✭✭✭Mr321


    That's the bare plaster board there also you know? The proper job would be to put plasterboard in where in missing and have it all hardwalled.

    Maybe your happy enough to cover the screw holes and paint them though and just want the block covered like you've started?

    I havnt seen any fillers crack like that when drying though but maybe it was a bad batch or mix or put on to thick for the type of filler it is?

    Was it straight out of a tub filler or one you had to mix up yourself with water?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Also try to keep the work clean... the more filler you leave around on the other surfaces, the more sanding needed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    If it was me I'd strip out that jointing compound as it has failed, and use bonding coat all over the block, board and in the gaps. It's really easy to work with as long as it's not made-up too thinly and you can get an even finish with little practice. By rights you should be using scrim tape over any gaps, especially where there is a mixed background. The bonding coat should be left slightly lower than the original plaster, then use a pre-mixed skim-coat over the bonding to finish off. Pre-mixed should work well for you are there are too many factors for a learner to get around in mixing up skim-coat from scratch for a small job.

    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/gyproc-thistle-bonding-coat-plaster-25kg.html?filter_set%5B%5D=1413,5908,5914

    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/tubbies-skimcoat-plaster-5kg-4000004.html?filter_set%5B%5D=1413,5908,5911

    Kirk Johnson on YouTube is a good one to watch for starter's tips.

    Hope it helps.



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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Jointing compound has no build up ability and that is why it has cracked. If you put scrim tape over it then you could probably salvage it with another layer of patching plaster - but it's always going to be compromised. I would strip it back and build up with bonding as others have suggested.

    In order to get a good finish I would skimcoat over the whole area - but probably a job for a good handyman or plasterer.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 141 ✭✭efwren


    I should add the walls either side of the gap are plaster..not plaster board.

    I have some spare plasterboard...is the best thing now to remove what we have done and put up plasterboard strip in the gap instead using some plasterboard adhesive? Then skim over the whole thing ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I'd just use the bonding coat like I recommended.

    This guy does a lot of repair tips, the video below starts at the point where he's starting to talk about filling. Instead of using 'filler' like he does, you need to use bonding coat to bridge the gaps and bring the levels up to the same. Then skim.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,576 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    Did you prime the blocks beforehand? They could be sucking the moisture out of the mix.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 141 ✭✭efwren


    Cheers, stupid question here….but bonding coat is that something I can get pre mixed, or do I have to mix it myself…..if you have any links to any you recommend that would be great thanks!

    Have never tried anything like this before, and we tried a few times to get professionals to do this and some other jobs but nobody really interested in the work so decided to give it a go ourselves.

    Thanks again



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 141 ✭✭efwren




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Bonding coat works on backgrounds which have a medium suck (thirst) so what you should do is wet the concrete block well a few times around 5 mins before but make sure that there isn't any free water (is a glaze of water over the concrete) and then apply the bonding.

    Cheers, stupid question here….but bonding coat is that something I can get pre mixed, or do I have to mix it myself…..if you have any links to any you recommend that would be great thanks!

    No, you mix it, but it's one of the easier ones to mix as it's light.

    https://www.gyproc.ie/documents/brochures-guides/sg-gyproc-ireland-plaster-selector.pdf-0



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 141 ✭✭efwren


    Just coming back to this @10-10-20 I am about to embark on this tomorrow. Do I do the bonding coat in 2 coats i.e building it up? Do I need to tape over the join with the current plastered wall or just plaster over that join.

    Finally I am assuming I need to skim then…can I use the multipurpose join compound for that ?

    Cheers again



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    No, bonding is one coat. It's thick stuff, but just make sure it's not too watery or too stiff. It's ability to hold shape like whipped cream is good.

    Skimming is done with bagged skimcoat or a pre-mixed container (which will be easier anyway). Don't use joint compound for that, it's not strong enough and doesn't take paint well.

    Good luck!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    You will probably get a better result if you leave the bonding shy of the existing finished plaster and then bring it up to finish level with the skim. Otherwise when you skim over the patch you will have to feather it out into the existing wall and it can be hard to get a good finish if you haven't done much skimming.

    You need join tape in the corner and also at the joint above the door frame.

    Considering the room its in and the location, I would just bond the blocks leaving it 3-5mm shy, then skim over to get a flush finish with the painted wall and the plain plasterboard.

    Then I would just sand & paint it all. I really wouldn't try to skim the entire plasterboard wall as a novice.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    An OX speedskim would make light work of skimming the whole area, but not worth the €80 for a one off job.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I found those harder to work with than a reasonable plastering trowel, especially where there's a rough edge.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I am a poor enough plasterer but managed to do our whole house to a near professional standard with a speedskim. Wouldn't have attempted it without one.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    What one did you get? I have job coming up where I could do with one.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I went with the plastic one.

    Throw on you base coat, skim it with the speedskim. At this stage it's already ready for the second coat. Speedskim it straight away once the second coat is on, then leave for about 20mins and speedskim again. Leave for about half an hour before finishing with the standard trowel. Done.

    Professionals are now commonly using the speedskim to increase their productivity and profits.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I saw videos on them alright, turns out the one that I have is a 'spatula' and not a speedskim. 🤣 Maybe I'll reinvest and impress the wife with an even wall. Thanks!



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