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Re-gluing peeling laminate

  • 01-06-2024 4:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,741 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    The laminate on a custom fishtank I installed 5 years ago is beginning to come loose. The laminate itself is in good shape and hasn't been picked at or torn etc so ideally I'd like to just glue it back but not sure how to do so correctly as I can't clamp it and assume nailing in tacks to hold the glued laminate in place until it had bonded back to the MDF isn't a smart move.

    Is applying a strong Contact Adhesive the way to go and is this Bostik product the right one to go with? From what I've read online you apply the Contact Adhesive to both sides of the laminate, wait for it to dry and then just press the laminate back into place. I find it hard to believe this will actually work but maybe it is the way to go?

    As ever I'd appreciate a steer from someone who actually knows how to do this!!

    Cheers.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,226 ✭✭✭✭cnocbui


    I'd use contact. If you let the contact on each surface dry for a while and then push the laminate down, you might not need to clamp. You can clamp it by tying rope around the whole thing reasonably tightly and then wedging things under the rope to apply the clamping force.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 461 ✭✭Kingslayer


    You can get a decent enough cheap band clamp from screwfix that would be perfect for the job. Just measure round the unit first op to make sure the strap will be long enough.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,226 ✭✭✭✭cnocbui


    Firstly, it might be a one-off job, but more importantly, a band clamp exerts pressure on the corners only which isn't what's needed at the bottom, or the top, really. As I said, letting contact adhesive dry sufficiently before pressing the laminate down might do the trick without needing anything else.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 461 ✭✭Kingslayer


    Yes but if he puts a length of wood under the strap like you said he can get the pressure where he needs it. Also the clamp is very handy if you make boxes, fix a chair or stool, picture frames etc.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,713 ✭✭✭✭Jim_Hodge


    But a clamp's useless to most people who only need one for a single job. The OP may never make a box or fix a stool. Would a decent contact glue do the job?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 441 ✭✭thereitisgone


    I have done similar job, after applying glue i used masking tape to hold it in place while drying, worked perfect



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,871 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I've used that contact adhesive before, but in spray form; as said above, you apply it to both surfaces, leave it for a couple of minutes to get tacky and then press them together. The issue for you would be getting it on both surfaces I'd say, without completely removing the laminate?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,468 ✭✭✭Buddy Bubs


    With a super glue wouldn't it work to just hold it in place with your hands until bonded? It won't take long

    After that I'd suggest a strong duct tape



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,871 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    With superglue, one option (if you could get clear access to both surfaces) is to apply the glue to one surface and an activator to another. The bond will be instant in that scenario.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,099 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Use the Bostik contact adhesive, apply a thin film of the adhesive to both surfaces with a scraper, let it dry which only takes a minute or two and push the laminate back in place, it bonds instantly.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,741 ✭✭✭54and56


    Thanks all, as the fishtank is built into the wall it won't be possible to use a band clamp or rope so I'll go with the contact adhesive option and I'll update here when done in case someone else who has a similar problem can learn something from my experience.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,871 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,226 ✭✭✭✭cnocbui


    At the bottom, they are going to want to try pulling the laminate at least partly off to get access for applying the glue from the top, and a dinkey little tube of glue probably wont be enough and a small can of it would be required.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,871 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i have 90% of a large spray can left, but i suspect the OP is not near me (near DCU in dublin) to borrow it for a trial run.

    as above, i don't think a spray can is a realistic option in the situation though.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,741 ✭✭✭54and56


    Thanks @magicbastarder but you're right, I'm down Sandyford direction. Would burn more petrol going over and back than a tin / tube will cost.

    Might give this fix a lash tomorrow but likely next weekend.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,741 ✭✭✭54and56




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,830 ✭✭✭horse7


    I have the same problem with a bedroom wardrobe drawer, the front has one big bubble. All I can think of is making a small hole and injecting adhesive inside it somehow



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 203 ✭✭Highlighter75


    WE really want laminate flooring but when Des Kelly came out to measure the bloke said that due to the slope in the floor they'd never lay laminate.

    I've since discovered trades morning will level the floor if required before laying the laminate.

    I know nothing amd experts could tell me black was white and I'd have nothing to counter them

    Is laminate possible in a sloping floor? We really don't want lino.



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