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Improving from C1 to B3

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  • 22-05-2024 2:23am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 17


    Hi all,

    I want to improve my house BER rating from C1 to B3.

    Now the question is can I do some DIY improvements on my own such as: replacing old 24hr analog timer with 7 day digital timer, replacing existing LED lights with warm white low usage LEDs, getting TRV's in every bedroom room + living room and a kitchen.

    And after I do all that get them over to assess my BER rating and hopefully it jumps up to B3 or everything I do has to be done by them?

    Btw. House is 2004 build, 3 storey house (2 floors + ground), 3 bedroom 2 bathroom terraced house. Gas central heating.

    Other tips on improving BER rating are welcome as long as they are cheap

    Regards



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,126 ✭✭✭con747


    If you have led lights they should be a low wattage anyway, what is the reason to want to get to a B3? Is it for a cheaper mortgage or comfort. Most people here will say to insulate and to insulate! Myself included, make sure any improvements you make you keep the spec sheets and receipts for any materials you use because the SEAI won't accept work done without them. If you don't intend selling or need a higher BER for a Mortgage it's a waste of money paying for a new one IMO. You can do the work.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    I want to get a green mortgage rate, thats all.

    House was bought recently and it was in awkward state. Since I moved in I did laminate flooring 12mm with 3mm underlay in the whole house, new kitchen and I opened half of the wall between living room and a kitchen and made myself a bar table. Not sure if that will affect BER results I got in December '23.

    When you say insulation, do you mean bring people over to insulate attic or something like that or you mean replacing weatherstrips on PVC windows and main doors on my own? Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    Here is my 6 months old BER report




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,126 ✭✭✭con747


    If you can do the attic insulation to a minimum 300mm yourself and do anything else you can yourself to try get it there. There's a few threads on here with very helpful people if you can find them. @MicktheMan might have some tips. I'm not that well versed in the field!

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,716 ✭✭✭Shoog


    There is no way what you propose will get you anywhere near B3. Once you get above C ratings thing tend to be very expensive and/or intrusive.



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  • Subscribers Posts: 41,361 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Can you post a pic of the ber cert without identifing details?

    Post edited by sydthebeat on


  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    You have 2 screenshots above. What else do you need me to post. Emissions? @sydthebeat



  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    What would be the cheapest option to upgrade in my home? Any advices? Thanks



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,361 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Please post the actual cert, which gives the energy value.

    The range of C1 is 25kw/M2/yr.

    You might need to find 25 units to get to B3, or you might only have to find 1 unit.

    That's why I want you to post the actual cert



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,716 ✭✭✭Shoog


    Boosting loft insulation to 300mm and getting pumped bead insulation would give the best bang for bucks and both can be grant assisted. Other than that its upgrading windows or deep retrofitting which would both be very expensive and without attention to airtightness might not deliver much more.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    here you go @sydthebeat . Thanks




  • Subscribers Posts: 41,361 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Thanks, so the cert showed that you are approx. 4.5 units away from a B3.

    That's a small enough change that could be an extra 150mm of quilt insulation to your ceilings.

    Maybe some wireless zone stats.

    Hard to tell without knowing what was included already



  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    Thanks a lot,


    I changed my programmer from old analog 24hr to 7 day programmer.


    I have 2 thermostats: one on the ground floor and other one in master bedroom; so something modern like tado could do the job?

    You recon if I get the TRV's in bedrooms and living room that could help upping the BER as well?

    Thanks for the help



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,361 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Not if you already have 7 day programmer and two some stats.

    Have you a stat on your dhw cylinder?

    If so, you've the highest heading control standard and you can't improve on it (on regards to the Ber)



  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    7 Day programmer was installed after BER assessment.
    And if by "dhw cylinder stat" you mean this, that was already there when I moved in (did before BER assessment.


    You think that 7 day programmer will improve energy rating over 24hr analog one?



  • Registered Users Posts: 384 ✭✭Biker1


    That's not a cylinder stat, it just regulates the temperature of the water leaving the cylinder. A cylinder stat to be included in a BER assessment must be attached to the cylinder itself. If you can get this done then you will achieve the B3.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,716 ✭✭✭Shoog


    That cylinder would benefit from an upgrade. A fully insulated unit would get recognition in BER.

    Can be done cheaply enough if you get a second hand one and do the plumbing yourself.

    You would get a significant boost in efficiency with a new cylinder.



  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    @Shoog so a new hot water cylinder with a cylinder thermostat would get me to B3 without getting ceiling insulation?

    I would rather get a new boiler than buying a 2nd hand one. Can you recommend shops/brands/cylinders or at least a website so I can look it up.

    Many Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,716 ✭✭✭Shoog


    I would not guarantee it would get you over the line. The BER you already have should mention the immersion tank and the potential improvement it could offer.

    We used a Kingspan stainless steel tank and it is a marvel.

    However if I was to prioritize I would go;

    • Loft insulation
    • Bead wall insulation
    • Immersion

    The loft insulation will give you the best return on investment.



  • Registered Users Posts: 17 rimgee97


    Do you know what am I looking at price wise to do all that. I know that you can't tell precisely but at least a rough estimate is good to know just so I can start saving up on time.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,716 ✭✭✭Shoog


    Insulation for the loft could be as little as €700.00 if you did it uourself, bead insulation last time I looked was around a few thousand and there is a grant from SEAI. The immersion tank could cost as much as the other two combined - the tanks are around a grand and fitting might double that.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,260 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Shoog, you're right, the real return there is on the insulation, no doubt.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,782 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    do not buy a second hand cylinder.

    You need 3 zones and a 7 day programmer. Each zone must be wired back and interlocked to the timer/stats. Buy a cylinder with extra foam spray on it. I’m not sure if putting a lagging jacket over the foam would add any extra points but it’d be worth it to find out



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,176 ✭✭✭fitzparker


    I went from a C3 to a B2 over a few years.

    I cant say exactly what effected it but In that time I got new windows and doors, attic insulated, LED lights (these were more so to upgrade the house rather than increase BER

    I then wanted to get the walls pumped and to get the grant a new BER cert was needed. you should maybe look into getting the walls done, in 2022 I paid €1500 + €200 for the BER cert and got €1000 grant back. so it cost €700



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Squatman


    yea, who in the right mind would buy a 2nd hand cylinder. and equally, who in the right mind would replace a cylinder thats perfect. go new, have comfort, dont get leaks.



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