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Putting back toilet bowl after tilier

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  • 04-05-2024 7:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 65 ✭✭


    Hi

    So had a tiler do some tiling in my mams bathroom.

    Since the tiles went in, floor is higher per pictures so that when I connect the bottom pipe, the bottom of toilet isn't touching the floor.

    Any advice on how to get connections to fit given floor higher ? Also, should I replace all these fittings ?

    The door needs to be put back in a different place too as floor higher but won't even attempt that!!



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,372 ✭✭✭jack of all


    There might be a bit more adjustment available in the original pan connector. Failing that, there are various pan connectors available, multi wick etc but if you haven't done this before you'd be better off hiring a plumber for an hour or so to do the job properly as it's not unusual for pan connectors to weep if not done 100%.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,976 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    You'll need a flexi adapter, like this: https://www.screwfix.ie/p/mcalpine-flexible-straight-wc-pan-connector-white-100-160mm/6458P?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwudexBhDKARIsAI-GWYXpbl1O0kTqQzYLA2Gnsfj4sBfQgK56NFepg-JQS4MX7-cnJ-ENb5EaArYgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Youll have to take measurements and bring them to a builders or plumbing providers like Chadwicks. They'll tell you which connector to buy.

    Best bet is to use a hacksaw to cut the pipe back to allow some room and clean up the cut with a Stanley knife. Push the connector into the pipe, then spray some soapy water onto the toilet outlet, then push the outlet into the rubber seal on the other side of the connector.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,886 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    The door will go back in exactly the same position once you cut a piece off the bottom, it's no big deal.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,976 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    Also, get yourself an 8mm tile drill bit, some rawlplugs, screws and white sealant while you're at it to secure the toilet to the floor.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,369 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    You need an offset pan connector to replace the existing one. Sit the bowl on some silicone and drill in the fixing screws, first with a tile bit.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 379 ✭✭The Ging and I


    Use brass screws for toilet bowl.



  • Registered Users Posts: 27,120 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo




  • Registered Users Posts: 27,120 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Also, you are going to have to adjust the flush pipe aswell, turn off the water (hopefully there is an isolation valve directly on the supply, if not, fit one while you are doing this!), empty the cistern (if you connect it temporarily to the waste pipe then you can just flush it, otherwise bail it out with a container of sort)
    Unscrew the pipe from the cistern and cutoff the required amount, deburr then refit and bobs your uncle.



  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭biketard


    +2 for the offset connector. However, I'm confused how your floor is now higher AND the toilet is hovering above it. Is there maybe already an offset connector on there but it's rotated to the highest position?



  • Registered Users Posts: 27,120 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I think they mean the front is hovering as they have tilted the pan back to get it connected to the soil pipe.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 27,120 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    OP another alternative, depending on how handy you are would be to connect the toilet, then very slowly heat the soil pipe and see if the pan drops down enough to get it flat.

    One more would be to cut out the plasterboard around the waste pipe and see if there is any play there.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭Squatman


    yea, and if that doesnt work, knock out a few blocks, adjust hte soil pipe, and replace blocks with expanding form… may need to dig up garden to suit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 27,120 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    The plasterboard could easily be holding the soil pipe up from where it would naturally sit, its not a house rebuild to grab a pull saw and cut a 6 inch slit below the pipe, especially in the middle of a bathroom reno.



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Stainless steel screws are better. Most brass screws will rust over time because they aren't actually brass any more or the brass content is very low



  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭biketard




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭Squatman


    adding a 6" slit into the wall? you realise if the plasterboard were holding it up, which is crazy, and we dont need to get into that now, then adjusting this level, would potentially not allow the solids to flow. a thoroughly risky appraoch



  • Registered Users Posts: 27,120 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I'm not saying that the plasterboard is structural, I'm saying that there might be enough play in the stack to not have to change anything, but you wont know if there is any play since the pipe is held snugly at the moment.

    In any case, its actual the skirting that is potentially in the way here.

    The 6 inches would obviously be horizontal and not vertical, under the waste pipe to see if there is any play, I don't know if you have actually looked at the pictures from the OP, but there is only maybe 15mm drop required at the pan coupler, so probably 5mm at the wall side would be enough for the OP to reuse all existing parts.

    There is no question of solids not flowing anywhere, I think you have either misunderstood or misrepresented what I have suggested tbh.



  • Registered Users Posts: 874 ✭✭✭doctorchopper


    Off set connector as lots said, also toilets are cheap, you've gone through all that trouble and expense to replace the tiles, for less than 200 euro put in a new toilet to match the tiles



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