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Should I expand my PV this way?

  • 23-03-2024 5:54pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭


    Help me to expand my system and reach my energy goals. Bear with me please and TIA for your input.

    What I want to achieve

    1.      Additional solar generation.

    2.      Faster battery charging from grid and discharging to house.

    3.      Faster battery discharging to home, so batteries can power the home if taking shower (9kW), using oven (~4kW) and running whatever else in the house (xxkW).


    Here is a master drawing to help visualise my thoughts.


    Current setups & Electric usage

    I have a D/N meter. We use approx 60% energy on night rate, including charging 2 EVs when needed. Estimate 80kWh weekly for both vehicles. Last year, we used 14,000 units. We are high energy users with 9 people in the house.

    High Load Items

    Ø We have a 9kW shower (I want to get rid of, but I’m stuck with for now).

    Ø We have a 7kW Hypervolt EV charger.

    Ø We have an electric oven.

    Ø Combined loads of up to 3 PCs and TVs and whatever else is being used.

    Ø I have deleted my pond, which was a high use item, running 24/7. Circa 17kWh per day.


    Immediate plans

    I have a 3.9kWp system being installed on my south facing roof next week. The inverter will be located in my side entrance, which is weather proof. The core equipment includes:

    ·        9 x Jinko Solar Tiger 435W panels.

    ·        1 x Solis Hybrid Inverter 5kW.


    I plan to get a smart meter installed and to activate a smart plan when it makes sense to…for example: when I can charge all my batteries over a 3 hour cheap night rate window.


    Batteries planned

    I will be buying two or three Seplos DIY kits between now and August. Maybe one full kit ordered next month (15kWh) and another kit, or two collected when I travel through NL (NKON batteries) and UK (Fogstar Kit) in August. I’ll be driving back from Germany, so it makes sense to pick them up on the way. My plan is to add these to the soon to be installed inverter in the side entrance and build a housing cabinet for them for better insulation during cold months. I know buying the ready made case is more expensive, but I was originally buying 2 x 5kWh ready made batteries for about €4.2k, meaning I am pretty much tripling my storage for the same money.

     

    Available space & intended use (for later this year and next)


    Main House

    North facing roof with Chimney at party wall.

    ·        Install 8 panels as second string to solis inverter. Optimisers needed because of chimney shadow.

    Shed Roof

    Currently shed roof is 2.6 x 3.4. There is a raised pond beside it which I will be demolishing. I plan to nearly double size of the shed roof by build a Pergola beside the shed and tying the roofs together. Roof is North facing with 15 degree pitch.

    Available space will be 2.6m x 6m

    I plan to install 6 panels here. I could fit 8 if I max out the roof space and orient them 3 landscape and 5 portrait with a 5mm overhang at the rear. 6 is just easier. I reckon these will produce as much as the North facing house panels because they will be angled at 15 degrees compared to the house roof which is around 40 degrees.

    This is the current shed with the planned pergola tie-in.


    Kitchen extension roof.

    Flat fibreglass. South facing.

    This will be a next year job.

    Available space will be 2.5m x 4m.

    I was thinking to either put another 3 or 4 panel here with micro-inverters, or what I would prefer is to install a solar thermal vacuum tube system. I could fit 2 of these on the roof, which would give us about 8m2 of collection. This would give us good coverage and would reduce the electrical load for water heating. Our gas heating would take up a lot of the slack in the colder months.

    I plan to DIY all the additional PV work after the initial solar install is done on the roof. I’ll have a REC check the work and make the final connections to keep it above board. The Solar Thermal, I am not sure what way I will go about that yet, but I will come up with a plan of action.


    My Questions

    1.      How do I increase the charge and discharge speeds from my batteries? If I am to run my house on battery when the sun is down and the grid rates are still high, I suspect the 5kW Solis inverter won’t cut the mustard? So if I have 30kWh of battery being pulled on by the oven which is drawing 3kW and the electric shower is turned on and draws 7kW, then the inverter is already maxed out at 5kW and the grid would feed the other 5kW, right? How do I allow the batteries to feed that additional need without the grid topping up the house load?


    2.      Should I bother with panels on the north roof, or just stick with the shed roof plan and connect that as the second string? I’ll be installing an incomer fuseboard and running 6mm2 SWA from the shed to replace the existing 2.5mm2 T&E.


    3.      Is there something I should be considering, or doing differently?



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,596 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    You've done a lot of good thinking there. (like the drawings too btw) So a couple of things spring to mind. In no particular order.

    Is the solar installation going on next week grant funded? If so, remember that SEAI require 50cm gaps from the edge of the panels to the edge/apex of the roof, or they won't release the grant money. That may mean you might not be able to fit in as many panels as you have in your drawing as the one next to the velux window looks like it's go no/little gap. I had the same problem myself. I had to get the installer to install what they could , get the grant money, and then get the installer out 4-5 months later to add 3x additional panels. My roof , my dime = no grant nonsense about "gaps" to worry about, but yeah, it cost me more doing it this way than if I could fit them all in initially. But I got a 6.5Kwp system this way instead of the initial 5.3Kwp that was installed.

    Don't forget that panels do come in different sizes. 400w and now 500w+ panels. The larger wattage aren't more efficient, they are just physically larger, but the point I'm raising is that (for example) you might be able to fit 6 x 380watt panels giving you 2280w but maybe you can sneak on 5 x 500 panels giving you 2500 watts. Basically maximising your roof space. Look around at the dimensions of the panels and see what works for you best.

    North facing will "work", but really they only kick in proper from March -> Sept. As long as your aware of that no issue.

    I wouldn't bother with solar thermal. If you have solar thermal installed, I wouldnt' remove one to replace with PV panels, but in terms of maintenance (gycol replacements, cleaning, plumbing).....solar thermal is just WAAY too more complicated than simply heating the water with electricity from a PV panel. I'd use the space on PV panels. Others I'm sure have different opinions, and 10 years ago when panels were more expensive thermal was a good deal. Nowadays PV is the way.

    You'll struggle to get batteries to cover more than 5kw. It can be done, but it's.....complicated. If I was you, I'd just get in a unit capable of meeting 5kw and see how you get on. Yeah, your shower will draw 9kw, but if the battery is covering 5kw of that, you've essentially stopped drawing > 50%of it from the grid so your off to a decent start in terms of savings.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Thanks for your reply. Yes, grant is applied for. Installers (2 different companies...one very well known and established) recently said the 9 panels would be OK and there is a 20cm gap needed for roof edge, with less concern around windows. I'll mention it again. Maybe it could be a case of moving the panel closest the window a few cm over the neighbours side (with their permission) until grant is paid and then I could adjust it back myself. Less panels (kWp) means less of a grant in my case, as I haven't maxed out the grant as it is.

    Good point on the different sizes. For the shed, this might help me add another kWp without too much messing.

    North facing panels will be mainly needed during the summer holiday period when the kids and the OH is home, so yeah, that would be fine to soak up the extra energy those months.

    I would be able to service the solar thermal myself, as I did a course on it about 6 years ago. That said, I am still unsure about it. It does generate a lot more heat per M2, but there is more work involved in the setup and there is the annual servicing I would rather avoid.

    The charge and discharge rate is a big one for me, especially if I go with a smart tariff. My aim is to draw zero, or near zero from the grid outside of the cheapest rate and I am willing to beef up on batteries and inverters to achieve that. Considering I use 3-4 times the average home in units of power, it should be worth the investment setup. 50% of a high rate is still more expensive in the long run than moving cheap energy from DIY battery storage, of which I will have a good 25-35kWh usable before the year is out.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,596 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    I think the 20cm is to the apex (top part) of the roof, but it's 50cm to the side of the house/roof. I do think your right that it's a bit more lenient towards the gaps for velux windows (as long as they are well clear), but that 50cm to the side of the roof might skupper you as it did me. I'd be careful about that with the neighbours, I thought the same myself, but it's not how you get along with the neighbors, it's how SEAI will treat the application as technically your outside of your property zone. I don't say that to be negative, but rather give you a heads up. They (SEAI) can be a bit picky. Sadly.

    Have a word though with your installer and broach the subject of a return (aprés grant) visit to maximise your output with rearranging panels. They might even give you a good price on locking in. Dunno.

    If you can do the servicing on the solar thermal, your ahead of the game, but I'd still recommend ditching it and using that valuable roof space for PV. It's not "wrong" in my thinking to get thermal, but while the m^2 is better, you can only use that energy for heating water. Once the water is hot then your done. With a PV panel, once the water is hot (11am on a sunny day?) your exporting the energy for the rest of the day and getting FIT, and you still can heat the water directly with electricity from those extra panels.....or use it for the kids xBox/computers. It's just more flexible to have it on your PV arrays I think. Again, it's not wrong, but even if it was free, I'd not swap out 2 or 3 of my panels for thermal.

    I know where your going with charge/discharge - but even though those electric showers draw a fair whack, They don't run constantly for hours. Typical shower is 5-10 minutes. Let's say 15 mins. So at 9kw, that's about 2.25kwh per shower which your currently paying for. With 50% or more of that gone via night rate your solving a large part. By the way, I wasn't saying DON'T get get additional batteries/inverters to get you above 5kw draw, I was saying I'd get in a solution initially which just caters for that and see how you get on. Then figure out what you need.

    Have you considered replacing the electric show with a pumped one. I did mine last summer - best thing ever. Eddi heats my water and nice long showers where I don't care about the hot water :-)



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,630 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Do you have solar thermal or planning to put it in?

    I have solar thermal, wouldn't get rid of it, but wouldn't choose it now over PV.


    Optimisers:

    Panels now have bypass diodes that activate when the panel is shadowed. Esp hard shadows like a chimney, optimisers make no difference.

    Optimisers come into play with diffuse shadows eg trees.

    Charge/discharge power: bigger inverter is the simple option but nc6 limits. Can use rectifiers to charge with more power.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    You are correct. It is 50cm from edge and looks like 20cm from neighbours side and windows. I'll contact the solar company on this, as I don't want to get caught with the grant rules. I have an idea and will come back when I have worked it out properly.

    On the charge/discharge end of things, regarding the shower alone....myself and the OH will take a 10 minute shower daily, but some of the older kids nearly have to be beaten out of the shower they spend so long in there. It's a significant portion of the daily usage at peak rates for the bulk of the showers taken. If I stay on the traditional 9 hours of night rate, I will do OK and can charge up about 40kWh of battery. However, if I move to a 3 hour smart night rate, I will only just get 15kWh charged up to supplement the daily use and would be getting charged higher peak rates, hence the desire for faster charge and discharge rates.

    I have definitely considered and plan to have a pump shower installed. I already use a 3.5 bar pump for most of the house. I just need to get a much larger cylinder for our needs and to replace the electric shower with a thermostatic pumped one.

    OK, I am sold on the PV over the solar thermal. I was kind of leaning toward PV anyway for the flat roof.

    I wasn't aware that the optimisers were not effective for solid shadows. I had been quoted for optimisers with panels on the north side of my roof from a solar company because of the chimney.

    I'll have to figure out something for the charge/discharge limit. It's not about exporting to the grid, as I will hoover up everything the panels generate to use in the house. I expect very little solar to go into the batteries...none into the grid unless we are on holidays.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,630 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    This is the video I've found useful (but I see there is a newer one I haven't watched yet)

    Basically if the shadow is hard, the panel will bypass itself and not bring down the string to its level. And it's on a north roof too so need that as cheap as possible.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...



    I have emailed the solar company with my concerns based on the info provided here and confirmed on the SEAI site.

    I have suggested they could delete the left most panels from the roof and move the remaining panels 300mm to the left, which brings everything into the safe zone. There is even room a 7th panel which I have marked in purple, but haven't asked them to include this in the quote, as I would hope that down the line, I could add the 3 deleted panels back.

    In the mean time, the deleted panels could be added to the north roof to make up some of the lost generation for now, while keeping the system at 3.9kWp for the grant and not cause any further delay in the install.

    I would later add 5 more panels to the north roof, as I wouldn't be availing of any grant for this. Is that OK, or is there a minimum time I would have to wait before making changes to the system?




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,488 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    There are ways around the somewhat stupid SEAI rules, I got inspected and the inspector did not like my shed panels due to the silly 500mm rule:

    You can do one of three things:

    1. Install and hope you don't get inspected but if you do the installer will need to "re-arrange" the panels as per guidelines, take a photo, send to SEAI, and then immediately put them back as they were (what I did here, left 3 panels on, snap, then all 12 back on)
    2. Inspector said had I simply left this shed string unplugged from the inverter then it would not be part of the inspection (so stupid) but you only have one panel so maybe pointless for you.
    3. Have the installer leave all the rails in place but simply remove the panel(s) that would put you outside of the "regulations", get your grant and then put on the panels after.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Interesting. Unplugged panels not being part of any inspection. I wonder if that is written anywhere, or is just implied. It would (in my mind) make a case to install the rails as originally planned and put up the 9 panels on the south roof. If there were to be an inspection, then it would be easy to move to the alternative setup. My only question is would this impact the total grant payable, because my 3.9kWp would become a 2.6kWp system in the eyes of the SEAI.

    Maybe I could agree with the solar company that they install another rail set on the north roof as a backup, so if they do need to return to move panels, the hard work is already done and the kWp remains the same by just moving 3 panels to the north side. Yeah, they might have to run the second string down to the inverter, but the rails are already in place and paid for. I could even suggest they prepare string 2 and leave it tied and protected on the north rail, just incase. Am I making sense?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,908 ✭✭✭Alkers


    Following with interest as your house and garden / shed arrangement is very similar to ours.

    Have you looked at the viability of north facing panels- we have very similar north facing front of main house at a steep pitch and a low pitch north facing garage roof (solar already on south facing roof)?

    How are you planning to mount to the fibreglass roof? I'd be worried about leaks.

    As an aside what sort of pond setup used 17kwh per day?!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,596 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    The unplugged panels actually makes a bit of sense - in a wierd way. If you had 6 panels in the box thrown on the side passageway of your house as in the day they arrived, would they be "in scope"? Sure, it's a somewhat tenuous argument, but unless they are stated to be a part of the installation for the SEAI grant and connected up, then I guess it's out of scope.

    Question though - are you limiting to 3.9Kwp because of the grant? Your aware that you can get your initial install as big as your inverter will allow, it's just that the grant will only pay for that 4kwp max, but nothing stopping you from getting 6kwp (if you have the roof space). You'd claim full grant reduction with 6Kwp as well as 4Kwp, might even be cheaper to get stuff done in one visit too?!

    I'd max out the roof as much as you can, even north side in the initial visit. Then setup a second array on the kitchen/shed as phase 2. Probably use micro-inverters, but no harm to see what your installer thinks too.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Here's to hoping you get something from this thread then.

    On the North facing panels, I reckon they will only achieve around 50% of stated output, maybe a bit lower on average. For a DIY install, it makes sense, as they will boost the overall output at the start and end of the day.

    I haven't yet decided on the best mounting method on the fibreglass roof. I have a couple of ideas, such as installing threaded rod with sealant and gaskets. Then mount a flat frame over that. Finally mount an inclined frame on top and install the panels. I should be able to build the frames myself to get the best angle which has the least impact on light entering the roof windows.

    My pond is a 5,000 Litre raised. I had a 350W pump running the main filter. Another 350W running a return jet and a 36W UV filter. Total 736W Load = 17,664W or 17.6kW per 24 hour period.

    I reduced the running times with smart plugs and timers to run around 1.5 times the necessary water turnover for bio load, but I should have reduced it slowly over a couple of months, as the sudden change caused a catastrophic loss of all my fish while I was out of the country. I decided I won't start again, so I am knocking the pond.

    No, I am limited to the 3.9kWp because that is the maximum number of panels I could fit onto the south roof and it makes no sense to pay a solar company to add panels to the north roof. The payback period would be well out there. The 3.9kWp gives almost the whole grant, so I am good with that. The max grant for solar PV is €2,100, of which I am claiming €2,050 with the 3.9kWp.

    The price per extra panel from the next leading quote was about €360, so I ruled out north facing panels, thinking it would cost nearly €3k, where I could do it myself for half that.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 49 GarlicBed


    I've a 25,000 L pond and it only uses 70 watts for air and 100watts for 2 pumps (20kL+ turnover) and 55watt UV that only on sometimes....




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Due to the bio load, I needed greater number of cycles. I mistakenly way oversized the jet pump because I was in a rush due to both pumps failing within days of each other (thanks to LEGO pieces!!!).

    My filter setup was DIY, so a bit less efficient. Off topic, but anyway, pond is getting knocked soon. Might start filter disassembly this weekend.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I spoke to the solar guys this morning. I've been assured that they won't fit any panels that won't pass the SEAI rules. They reckon there should be no issue getting the 8 panels up and the only one they're not sure about yet is the one nearest the window.

    I asked about the cost of additional panels on the north roof if there was to be an issue with 1 or 2 panels on the south roof fitting. €300 per panel installed I was told. While it's more expensive than DIY later, I decided to make a plan of it and get a little extra solar. So, the plan is to have 4 panels installed on the north roof and as many as possible on the south roof (up to 9). If any of the 9 panels don't fit on the south roof, they will be installed on the north roof as part of the target of 4 north panels. So, if I am getting 8 on the south roof, I am paying for an extra 3 panels for the north roof and the deleted south panel will be panel number 4 on the north roof.

    So all going well, I will have the full 3.9kWp south and 1.7kWp north, albeit at a little above half the efficiency of the south panels. One important thing to note is I have asked for the 4 panels to be installed in a 2+2 pattern away from the chimney in order to reduce any shadowing. Panels go up tomorrow. Here is the latest mock up, but I am expecting to lose 1, or 2 panels on the south roof, meaning I will be paying between 600 and 900 extra for the additional panels.


    Post edited by ...Ghost... on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,596 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Solid piece of work that.

    When you get around to doing "Phase2" (the flat roof and shed) you might want to consider 3 panels if they will fit (landscape maybe?) between the house and the three skylight windows on the flat roof. If you angle them at say 10 deg they will probably fit under any window sills on the vertical wall of the house?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,488 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I would also fill all of that N roof space, not sure if you would need optimizers for chimney shading since they're technically in the shade all the time (I'd take down the chimney if not shared with a neighbor, but that's just me and I hate them with a passion)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I don't think I have the space there, besides I like to have the access to the roof, even if it is via the bedroom window.

    The chimney is just on my roof. It stays for now, because I have a stove and it's a real luxury. I'll be lighting it shortly. Got lots of old wooden floor to burn through and get free heat from. I will eventually give up the stove, but for the next couple of years, it stays. :)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Well, the panels are up! 8 south and 4 north. So, I am paying an extra 900 for the 3 panels over the 9.

    The roofers were done in 4 hours. They arrived at 9 and were leaving at 1. They were done before I got home. The soil stack had to be cut as I expected, so I provided them with a durgo valve, allowing the panel to go over it. The rest of the install (electrical) happens on Thursday. This is what I saw when I pulled up outside the house. Glorious....looking well.


    I thought maybe they were coming back, because it needs to be tidied up. Maybe I am being too fussy, but a here's a few things I spotted:

    # The panels on the roof are dipping from the edges to the center.

    Adjustment on the brackets should allow a flat install and I am surprised it was left this way. I haven't seen anything other than completely flat installs before. Surely this needs to be sorted.



    # The end caps are missing. So I have sharp jagged metal within touching distance when I open the attic window.


    # The cables below the panels are a mess, with lots of contact points with the roof.

    I think this is a bit of an issue, aside from it being untidy looking, the cables will be rubbing the sandpaper textured tiles and some are less than an arms reach away from the window.



    # The cables are hanging over the roof edge. I didn't take a photo of this, as it's self explanatory and they will be worked on anyway.

    However, I expected these to be ran into the roof and would then exit from the side of the house. I searched street view of the nearest solar install and found none that had cables hanging over the side of the roof. Here's the first one I found near me. Cables ran into attic and then down the side of house.


    I contacted the solar guy to ask if the panel installers would be back to finish the job. He hadn't been in touch, or heard from them at this stage, 2 hours after they left. This is alien to me, because whenever I finished installing new equipment at a premises, I sent the finished photos to the manager to show my work and cover my arse incase the client broke something after I left. I expect my team to update me as soon as they are finished a big task, as this is all part of the accountability and client care process.

    I didn't want to be critical of the work, but I am paying several thousand euro for this system, so I want it done to a good standard. I told him about the issues raised in this comment and he said he would be here on Thursday to check it out himself and would sort anything not done properly.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I had panels installed yesterday. In my opinion, the install is very sloppy which I have highlighted in another thread. Can I get some opinions on this, as the solar guy is calling this morning to look at it and is saying that the roof is crooked. I'm sure there is some truth to that, but there was no mention of this at survey and panels are also adjustable with the mounting system. I would give more credit to the crooked roof explanation had the rest of the work been up to scratch. A few pictures for your opinions please. I had 8 panels put on the south roof and 4 panels on the north roof. The south roof panels are the issue.

    My south roof from Google last year.


    The panels installed. Dipping over the span, but each individual panel is also distorted from the next rather than having a uniform plane.


    Cable management and missing end caps. End caps are to be installed on Friday I am told.


    What do you think?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,734 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Looks sloppy to me, It took my lads (3 of them) two full days to fit my 14 panels. The only cables visible on my install are the ones that enter the attic, hidden underneath the panels.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    This is why I hate paying professionals for something I can technically do myself. They weren't the cheapest quote, but they were fast and keen on the follow-up. Had I done this myself, even with an uneven roof, I would have used mounting shims to compliment the adjustment allowances in the bracket and got everything to align. It would have made more sense (or at least it does to me) to run the mounting kit horizontally any dip in the roof could then be compensated for more easily than the vertical mounting method they used for the landscape mounted panels.

    I'll make sure they do a better job on the cable management and see what they do with the misalignment. I'll probably end up fine tuning the panels after the fact. I was in touch with another solar company I had almost chosen. They said there isn't much improvement to be made on the panels after the fact, but that the cable management is very poor and needs to be remedied.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,734 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    4 hours for a roof install is nuts. Rushed and sloppy job. Quality work takes longer than that.

    I feel your pain, I recently had a new composite door fitted which cost a small fortune. The knobs fitted it on spacers and used silicon to fill the gap under the threshold. Something I ended up fixing myself as I didn't trust them to come back and remedy.

    It's not right but from now on any work that's being done at my place, I'm going to stand and feckin watch them doing it.

    Make sure they put this right as those cables could cause a fire on your roof.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I feel your pain, I recently had a new composite door fitted which cost a small fortune.

    Same here. Door was fitted well. Only needed a little touch-up after install. But the after service was muck from both the installer and Palladio. Palladio don't deal with the public, so you can't order parts. The installer was supposed to fix and replace a couple of parts from dog damage. My idiot dog chewed the surround and part of the door edge days after installation. She never chewed doors before this.

    I ended up fixing the damage myself and in December a colleague who asked for the installers number and wanted the same door was told by me to go elsewhere and thankfully avoided Palladio. I can't recall the brand he went with, but it wasn't a name I know.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,734 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Feckin dogs 🤣 Have one here too that tried to chew through a door.

    It's a sickener when you pay for a service and they let you down. Shlt happens, things go wrong, I've no problem with that, just fix it. Give me what I paid for. Anyway I'm sure you'll get this sorted 👌. It will be a distant memory when you're hoovering up those photons.

    ☀️



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,473 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    I had 18 panels installed in 45 minutes, 5 of them, their speed was unreal, all good, neat, level, no cables visible, no issues 2.5yrs on. First guy put in the tender, then two more the rails and the other two were laying the panels as quick as rails placed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Now that’s super fast!!! I’m sure my roof is a pig to work on, but I expect the cables to be tidy and safe. They will we sorting it tomorrow.

    electricians are here installing the rest of the bits. Currently changing my fuseboard for a bigger one. Tails going from 10 to 25 too. Those tails are feckin thick! Horrible to work with I can tell. It took 3 of the lads to wrestle the cable into place 😂



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,473 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Will be an exciting day when you go live, expect to be grabbing your phone when the sun comes from behind the clouds



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    The sun was dipping below the horizon when the system went live, so not much generation today 🤣

    The roofers will be here tomorrow afternoon to tidy up some of their unfinished work. Very simply I will be telling them I want no cable touching the roof and ideally, I want to see no cables hanging down. Some are routed under the mounting rail which makes no sense to me at all. If they can improve the alignment, great.

    My CU is upgraded. I can now easily see what breakers control what. Much neater than the rats nest that was taken out. New 25mm^2 tails are run from the board waiting for ESB to connect. The new tails are connected to the old tails via connector boxes, so the old tails are easily removed and the new ones can be hooked up. Electrician said ESB call out to do it without the electrician being present. I have also asked for a smart meter, but will stick to D/N tariff for now.

    Meter waiting for new tails.

    Here is the old CU

    And the new CU

    It was dark, so the inverter pic below is crap. But here it is anyway. I'll do better pics when everything is done.

    Where's my ticket to the solar lounge? 😊



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,734 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Much better, how's your forecast looking tomorrow?

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Haha….probably be lashing down again. I just checked…rain forecast. It's been rain anything I want to look at a car, or have something done outside the house.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,260 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Don't mind the solar, tell me more about having a Dyson Airblade in your house 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,734 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    🤣 I was wondering about the hand dryer too.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Towels are for peasants 😂

    Picked it up a couple years ago on adverts. Under the stair jax used by guests. Hand dryer is just cleaner.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    quick question please.

    I checked the inverter at 10 this morning to see if the system was active. Pleasantly surprised to see the low morning house load being covered and out of 2.5kW being generated, 2kW was going to the grid.

    So, will my D/N meter track backward if I am exporting to the grid? I am thinking yes, because I noticed the arrow on the meter display is now facing toward the grid.




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,630 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    No it doesn't

    You need a smart meter (it's day night compatible) to get measured export



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Cheers. That's disappointing. I put in my smart meter request a couple of days ago. Let's see what happens.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,473 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Make sure they fit a 108model, this is the Day/Night model.

    Heat the water, do some ironing, stick on the dishwasher/washing machine etc before exporting



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    The roofers returned and fixed up the cables, so nothing is touching the roof. End caps are installed and it looks a lot neater. They were about to leave after 10-15 minutes. I couldn't believe it, having joked with the OH that they will be done in 10 minutes.

    I checked before they were off in the wind and I did have to get them back up on the roof to lift some more cables that were touching the tiles. An adjustment was made to one of the panels that was distorted, right up at the velux window. There is a small Z-Axis flush misalignment of about 3 or 4mm with the next panel after they lowered one side to reduce the strain across the panel. I'm just going to adjust that misalignment myself. It's right if front of me when I open the window, bang in the middle, so needs to be done.

    Overall, I'm happy with the system and I am delighted to see it generating and reducing what we are pulling from the grid. My next phase is batteries. After that, it's more solar, but I first have to figure out how to charge and discharge the batteries faster if I am to take proper advantage of the system. I'll post some pics later.

    Can someone tell me what that light bulb icon does? I've seen it referred to as "AC Backup"



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,734 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Excellent, happy inaugural production day. Let the obsessive behaviour begin.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,047 ✭✭✭con747


    It is for if you have a back up supply wired into the inverter to run from the batteries during power cuts either via a double plug or certain low load circuits. I have the whole house running from it in power cuts but only use low loads or it will trip.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Nice. I'll have to look into how that works. I'd like the fridge/freezer and lights to keep working in a power cut….though they are rare.



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