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Block on flat or cavity block for garden wall

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  • 20-03-2024 9:33pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 12


    Hi I want to build a block wall at the side of the house roughy 4m by 2m. Is there any advantage to building it block on flat or with cavity blocks? I would probably fill the cavity blocks with concrete and rebar and could add 2 pillers on either end if needed. Alternatively block on flat with 2 pillers



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,438 ✭✭✭JustJoe7240


    Block on flat would be fine, Not sure how you'd fill the cavity with steel and concrete



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,897 ✭✭✭Dr Turk Turkelton


    Cavity Blocks would be better as you wouldn't even need pillars. Just drill 16mm rebar through the cells in the cavities at both ends and in the middle of the wall. Drill the hole with an 18mm drill bit 150mm+ deep and put in chemical anchor first.

    Drill it after your first course of blocks is set out and put in about 600mm length and when wall is finished drop another length in to go beside it and concrete.

    This method will mean you have no pillars when mowing your lawn.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 bikeguy


    Well the block is hollow so I would just set the rebar in the foundation when poured and slip the blocks over



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 bikeguy


    @Dr Turk Turkelton are you talking about putting the rebar horizontal? I had vertical in mind setting it in the foundation. And my idea around doing this was to avoid pillers



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,897 ✭✭✭Dr Turk Turkelton


    This is an overhead view of your wall 10 blocks long which will stretch 4.5 metres.

    Put the rebar in where the x's are.

    This is s side view of the first course of blocks laid.

    The starter bars are chemical anchored in 150mm into your concrete foundation sticking up approx 450mm.

    Then drop a second rebar beside them to the height of the wall and fill with wet concrete.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,392 ✭✭✭Asdfgh2020


    Block on flat is your only ‘man’ effin around with rebar and filling cavity is only adding hardship and time to the project. When say 4 x 2 m do you mean 4m long x 2m high…?



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 bikeguy


    @Asdfgh2020

    I hear you but it’s half the amount of blocks easier to align/keep plumb and can avoid pillers. Yes 4m long 2m high



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 bikeguy


    @Dr Turk Turkelton

    thank you I think we are on the same page, I had thought of putting rebar in every second hole as per your first diagram. Would you also put a length of rebar going horizontal positioned myb halfway up the wall?



  • Registered Users Posts: 213 ✭✭pogcica


    Who are you trying to keep out ? Russians , Taliban, Neighbours, plant a hedge, green the place up a bit. Cannot understand the mentality of irish people building compounds to live behind. And feckin rebar.. are you trying to stop a missile?.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,897 ✭✭✭Dr Turk Turkelton


    Don't do it this way, you will never have it in the right place to align with the cells. Also a 25kg cavity block is quite the lift to reech over a 2 metre high length of rebar.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,897 ✭✭✭Dr Turk Turkelton


    No you won't need it every second hole. Just the two end cells at either end and two cells in the middle would do you.

    Edit; you won't need a horizontal rebar either.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 bikeguy


    @Dr Turk Turkelton

    Yeah I realise this I was gna myb leave the first bit of bar sticking up 1m and place the other beside it as I build up but I other difficulty in getting the placement of the rebar so chemical anchor might be a good shout



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,509 ✭✭✭thomas 123




  • Registered Users Posts: 145 ✭✭bfclancy2


    no need for rebar unless its a retaining wall



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