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Recessing a coach bolt

  • 15-03-2024 6:16pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,602 ✭✭✭


    I'm making a gate and have some coach bolts that I now realise that I need to recess as I'm covering it with a plank and need a flat surface to mate both together.

    I've got the right wood bit to create the recess, but as I've drilled the hole there is nothing to guide the bit.

    What is the best/simplest way to correct this problem. I don't want to just keep tightening the bolt as it will start to splinter.

    Any ideas?



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 70 ✭✭tibia


    Two suggestions:

    Insert a dowel or other piece of wood into the hole so it is a tight fit. Use a Forstner bit to create the recess, then re-drill the hole for the bolt.

    OR

    Clamp a piece of wood (e.g. ply offcut) over the hole. Line up your bit as best as possible and drill through it to the depth required.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,602 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    I had thought about your last idea, but wasn't sure if I'd get it aligned correctly. Will give it a go later.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Do the second idea there. You can recheck and move to align exactly when through the clamped piece as that will still hold the bit even if moved onto centre again.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,602 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Sorted. Used that second method. Went a bit deep with the first couple, but later ones worked out fine.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,602 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    I want to extend this time up beyond the hanger for approx 3".

    Would I be best to just cut a notch into the timber to accommodate the hanger or put a taper on it from top of timber to top of the frame.

    I like the idea of notching it, but concerned about accelerating rot - gauge a birds mouth cut? Not sure if a birds mouth will allow the dropper to be removed though.

    Photo 1 shows what will be seen by people. Which would be the neatest way? For all that needs removed maybe just taper?

    Post edited by funkey_monkey on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    I can't follow what you mean here



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,602 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    The hanger is impinging on the timber. I can't cut any more out of the hanger. So, I need to cut the timber to allow it to close the gap shown in the photo and allow some room for gates to swing. Gap is about 5mm.

    The timber will rise about 2" to 3" above the hanger. How would you do it?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    I suppose you could have installed all the timber 5mm or so off.the.frame using packers but at this stage surely you just need to mark the spot that is hitting the steel, do 2 saw cuts and chisel out the bit causing the problem.

    If the problem gets worse as the gate swings, you will need to work out how deep to go.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,602 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Packing it out would leave a gap along the frame and would be the least attractive finish.

    Can't take any more off the hanger and can't move it as the alignment will be ruined. Would chiseling or the problematic part be a better looking solution than just sawing a 5mm sliver off the top of the timber?

    It's not the biggest problem but I'd like to get it right without wasting timber trying things.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Thats what I'm saying. Mark the area. Cut top and bottom real tight to steel and chisel out the trouble section.



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