Zero Using a 20 MOA Pic Rail

Gumbo

Guys,

Any issues with the above?

I usually zero at 50m but my new rifle has a 20 MOA rail attached.

It’s a .22 and will generally be used on 50m/100m target range.

The rail is new in the box so I can swap to a 0 MOA if needs be but if the 20 gives me more option should I get the chance at longer range then I’ll keep it.

Thanks.

zeissman

You shouldn't have any issues.

I have a 25moa rail on my 22 with a 50 yard zero.

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121843574#Comment_121843574

Did you zero it with the rail on?

Someone mentioned today that I could zero it with a 0 rail on the just swap rails. But I thought that would throw off the zero and point of aim/shot alignment?

Maybe it’s me that’s confused?

otmmyboy2

Zeroing with a 0 moa rail, then removing the optic & rail, putting on a 20 moa rail and the optic on that rail will, at least, mean you will be 20moa off from the rail.

More likely even further because the optic will likely be off too.

So no, you need to zero after removing either optic or rail, and definitely with both.

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121843862#Comment_121843862

That was my understanding of it too. But I didn’t want to question the guy saying it to me as I had assumed his experience was more that mine.

Thanks.

BSA International

Happened to me previously. The scope adjustment range (up/down) was the issue. Not enough adjustment.

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121843977#Comment_121843977

Would you use the 20 rail or swap it for a 0 rail?

Or am I over thinking it for the distance I shoot at?

MickS12

Unless there is very little elevation adjustment in your scope there should be no problem zeroing at 50m.

I currently run a 50 moa rail on my rifle with a arken scope and I'm still able to get a 50m zero.

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121845163#Comment_121845163

It’s this one, I bought it.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058335975/sold-discovery-ed-lht-3-15x50sfir-ffp-1-8moa-side-parallax-riflescope

MickS12

Might be best to go with the 0 moa rail because the scope you have only has 40 moa of vertical adjustment. Your 50m zero will be very close to the top end of that adjustment range which wouldn't be ideal.

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121846042#Comment_121846042

Makes sense. I can swap for a 0 rail no problems.

Wadi14

No need to be buying another rail the 20moa rail you have should work fine, by using the 20moa rail you will be lowering the reticle in the housing, this will give you more vertical elevation if you wish to shoot to longer distances at a later date. If you put on a 0 moa rail with a 40 moa scope adjustment range after zero you will have say 20 moa up and 20 moa down. You will never need 20 moa down adjustment so basically you are limiting you scope adjustment to 20 moa .

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121846427#Comment_121846427

That’s how the lads in Lakeland’s were explaining it alright. It gives me the option should I get the chance to visit midlands long range or similar.

BSA International

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121844351#Comment_121844351

I was zeroed at 50 yards, 20 moa rail, as adjustment was bottoming out I had shadow on/around bottom edge of scope ...... hope that makes sense 🫢

Wadi14

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121846826#Comment_121846826

Can I ask what scope and rings and rifle you used ?

Had you centered the reticle in the scope prior to putting the scope on the rail, if your reticle was low in the tube before you started and then you lowered it further with the moa rail you would be reaching the bottom of adjustment range.

Running out of adjustment either up or down has been known to happen when mounting scopes even with 0 moa rings or bases. but is isn't the norm.

BSA International

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121847002#Comment_121847002

Will have to see can I remember, was a good few years ago.

I was only shooting to 50 yards so put a 0 moa rail on and it was perfect.

I'll be back

dalalada

The answer depends on your optics moa range. An optic with under 50moa is recommended to be on a 0 moa rail. Yours is 40moa scope. A perfect scope for a 22lr range under 200m.

If you mount your 40 moa scope on a 20moa rail you will be zeroing to a split of 0moa/60moa. Issue is with a 0moa zero you could run out of adjustment, get shady darkness in the scope, and most scopes at the 10% turret adjustment extremes are not as accurate.

iow you are pushing your luck with a 20moa on a 40moa scope. If you want to take part in 22 eld comps in midlands best to upgrade the scope to above a 40moa. Gives you that extra reach. And can sit the scope on a 20/30 moa rail

Mellor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121846427#Comment_121846427

A 50 yard zero requires about 4 down. Meaning with a 20moa rail, he’ll need to come back up 16. The adjustment should be there. But it may start to affect image quality, dark edges etc.

Gumbo

It’s looking like I should seal to a 0 MOA rail.

Feisar

What scope do you have?

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121849470#Comment_121849470

Discovery ED LHT 3-15X50 SFIR FFP 1/8MOA Side Parallax

40 MOA vertical adjustment.

Feisar

Flat rail so. You might get a zero a 50 but you'd be up against the edge of the adjustment.

I seen a lovely diagram thing on a website a while back, cannot for the life of me find it now. As you adjusted the scope the graphic moved to show what was happening inside, it was pretty cool. You'd loose light/resolution out at the edges. My Zeiss LPR S3 with 160 MOA adjustment definitely isn't as good out at the edges. If I start at optical center and dial out to the edge looking down the front of the scope I can see the result of the tube tilting and see a crescent shape as opposed to circular.

clivej

This is why you need to center the reticle.

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121865420#Comment_121865420

Done that at home using the mirror trick 😎

jb88

Switching from a 0 MOA Rail to a 20 or even a 40 MOA rail which I currently have on a 22 is not a problem, even when you use an 11MIL Mount.

Put your rail on, then mounts and then set the scope up at home, centre it by using something level, ive set up lots of scopes aiming at the kitchen tiles which are level. Tighten down your mounts and then go to the range and put up a big white target with an aiming point in the middle, go back 10 m and fire a round, see where it hits and then adjust your elevation, windage turrets etc.

Chances are you are high at 10m , no problem. Just use points of aim at your target and recticle with your scope.

Get a small flip chart of the targets and what your aiming points are.

Eg I have a 20 MOA RAIL with Burris XTR Mounts and a Hawke scope, which can go from 10 M to 200 yards no problem. The scope is zeroed as a point of aim at 50m and its 17 1/4 moa clicks or 4.1MOA to 100 yards and a further 2 MOA TO 125 YARDS and 8MOA to 200 Yards with R100 Ammo

Had a 20 MOA rail on a 10/22 along with Burris xtr mounts with 40 moa inserts and was able to shoot from 10m to 300 yards with only elevation adjustment quite easily.

Best advice go to your club and ask an experienced shooter