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Replacing monobloc tap but what kind of connector is this on existing pipes?

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  • 30-01-2024 7:38pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 6


    Hi folks,

    Trying my hand at replacing a leaking monobloc kitchen tap. A complete novice to plumbing but have been reading up over the last week or so.

    When I look at the copper pipes under the basin, they seem to be connected to rubber pipes using connectors that aren't standard hex nuts. I have a few questions please...

    1. Can anybody please explain how I would remove these copper pipes from the rubber ones. What sort of tool would be used to get a grip?
    2. I want to add an isolation valve... How would I connect the valve to those rubber pipes?
    3. The top of the pipes, where they connect to the monobloc tap, are about 12.2mm measured by a callipers. But the bottom half, where they connect to the rubber pipes, is roughly 14.6mm!! Does that 14.6mm measurement mean it's a 1/2" pipe?

    I've uploaded two photos -- a picture is worth a thousand words! 😊

    Thanks for any help... I'm on my own with regards to working all this out so any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Michael




Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,359 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    So the copper pipes that you have taken the measurements on come with the taps. The current ones will be disposed of. The ones that come with the new taps will more likely be braided flexible which will make it easier for you.

    1. There is a special tool, but with a little difficulty you would manage to do it with an adjustable spanner set for just the width of the copper pipe. The green plastic collar needs to to pushed in against the brass fitting and the pipe pulled out. The fittings are called tectite. If you google there are probably videos showing how to remove the pipe. Alternatively, just cut them off by cutting the plastic pipe immediately below the fitting.
    2. They are plastic (qualpex) pipes, not rubber! If you remove the brass tectite fitting altogether you can replace with a compression isolation valve. Then add another short length of copper or pex to bring you closer to the tap and fit a 1/2” 311 fitting which will allow you to screw the flexi hoses from the new tap straight on.

    Shopping list (from local plumbing merchant) not screwfix or online as you will end up with metric uk pipe sizes)

    2 x 1/2” isolation valves (compression)

    2 x 1/2” 311 compression fittings.

    1M of 1/2” qualpex pipe.

    6 x qualpex pipe inserts

    some jointing compound to help the compression fittings go together and may be helpful for tap flexi hoses also.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,786 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Lenar has provided a pretty comprehensive guide there. 👍️

    I'll just caution that as you I'm sure have seen - you have a socket in a very poor location there on the wall and it looks like it has already had water leak onto it in the past. That's not going to be possible to move from that location - but just please pipe around it as best you can and double-check your connections. I'd even suggest leaving that back-board off the rear of the cupboard for a while after, just so that you can easily check for leaks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,369 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    The push fits might not seal correctly a second time when a new piece of coper pipe is inserted, depending on the condition of the o-ring. You could shut off the water and just cut the two copper pipes 4-6cm higher than the push fit, then fit your isolation valves to the copper pipes.

    You need to review what connections are on the new tap, post a pic here and people can advise. Also be aware that many of the fittings/taps you buy from screwfix are 15mm and not 1/2", so you might need to change the olives in the compression fittings.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6 michealoriain


    @Lenar3556 @10-10-20 @DublinDilbert @dathi

    Thanks so much for your excellent comments and advise 👏 I really appreciate it as I'm only learning a bit about plumbing from YouTube! 😀 I've never done anything like this before but I'm really enjoying the adventure!

    @Lenar3556 Thank you! tectite and qualpex.... I didn't even know how to compose a google search that would have given me the answer 😄 Great advice. I have a question which I'll post separately just to keep the thread easier to follow.

    @10-10-20 I had simply ignored the socket until now 😮although I did wonder why the hell was it placed there! It powers the dishwasher. I think I'll be able to work around it easily enough but will be cautious.

    @DublinDilbert Thanks! Yeah I was thinking the easiest way out of jail was to cut above those fittings (which I now know are tectite fittings ;-) ) but if I could replace them easily, then I'd prefer to do that -- although they've been sitting there for 22 years and it looks like they're completely watertight so maybe let a sleeping dog lie...

    @dathi Thanks! Wouldn't even have known what I was looking for!

    Apologies for my delay to your very timely responses... I got sidetracked.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6 michealoriain


    @Lenar3556 Referencing your point 2... if I remove the tectite push-fit fittings, then can I add a compression fitting isolation valve directly to those qualpex pipes? Given that they're made of plastic (and not rubber, thanks :-) ), will they be able to handle having an olive and nut tightened around them? Just fearful they won't support the pressure being exerted and might collapse in on themselves?

    Why do I need new qualpex pipe and pipe inserts, if I'm going to be putting iso valves in place of those existing tectite fittings?

    I have already bought Pegler compression iso valves with 15mm CxC connectors from Screwfix locally. I hadn't read your feedback in time about differences between UK and Irish sizes and info online seems to suggest you can 15mm and 1/2" BSP together (although I've seen comments too, that you can't!). This whole thing about metric and bsp and OD and ID is pretty confusing! and in the end I thought I just need to crack on with it and see where I end up (but haven't started yet).

    @DublinDilbert Thanks again for advice on Irish vs UK sizes. To get the right olive size, do I just buy a bsp compression connector and take out the included olives to use on my Peglar iso valves? Or is it possible to buy bsp olives as a separate item?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6 michealoriain


    btw I have 100mm flexi tap connectors arriving from Amazon today. They are 10mm at the tap end and 1/2" bsp at the other end. I went for these because the total distance from the top of the copper pipes to the tectite fittings is 17cm and I also need to add the Pegler iso valves which are 73mm so very little road to play with. I haven't bought the taps yet but am just presuming whatever I buy will have 10mm tap-end connectors. The flexi pipes that come bundled with taps all seem to be 300mm / 400mm etc, which is way longer than the space I have, and I don't want any bends/ turns if possible, to avoid possible kinks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6 michealoriain


    I also have Jet Lube jointing compound coming from Amazon today. I originally got this because I thought I'll use it to seal any gaps that might otherwise be there, given all this confusion between 15mm and 1/2" bsp fittings 🤞



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,369 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    I've no idea what Jet lube is, but be careful what jointing compound you use, especially for drinking water. Your new tap should come with flexi tails, no need to buy them separately.

    By all means replace the shark-bite push fit connectors if you can, it might be worth taking the insert out of the pex pipe and cutting a little bit off the end as sometimes the shark-bite can damage the end of the pex, but you might be fine. I never really use these any more, normally just use compression fittings.

    The top pic looks like one fitting might be a T-fitting supplying a dishwasher or washing machine, so you might not want to replace that.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,359 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Yes, compression isolation valves are designed to go onto Qualpex and it is entirely acceptable. Just make sure there is a pipe insert used.

    I suggested you might need a small amount of extra qualpex for two reasons. 1. The flexi hoses that come with the new tap may not be long enough. 2. The flexi hoses will make a better connection to a 1/2” 311 fitting than screwing them directly onto an isolation valve.

    15mm fittings are British sizes and not suitable. You would be best send them back.

    Flexi hoses vary by tap manufacturer and are supplied with the tap.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,359 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    I suggest use the flexi hoses that come with the new tap.

    It would be best to get rid of the tectite and add the isolation valves instead.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭dathi




  • Registered Users Posts: 6 michealoriain


    Hi all,


    JetLube V2 Plus is a potable compound suitable for water

    https://amzn.eu/d/4Oh9vt6


    You're right @DublinDilbert, one of them is a T-fitting… I only noticed that yesterday! So I think I'll leave it alone cos I'd be inviting trouble on myself if I tried to swap it out.


    15mm are British… okay I'll send them back and shop in Irish shops… good to see links like that goodwins.ie one cos I'm not aware of where to shop locally.


    The reason I bought 100mm flexis is because I've only 17cm to fit everything in and the flexis that come with taps all seem to be 30cm/ 40cm long so might kink?


    Thanks for all your help folks, it has been really good & helpful. I have a much better feeling for what I need to do now 👏👏



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