Veissmann Gas Boiler question

championc

Hi all,

Does Veissmann boilers have a sort of smart switch where it can sense flow or pressure to activate it ?

Background - I fitted actuators to my friends system. I simply connected the L and N to plugs plugged into Smart Plugs, so that he could turn them on and off, controlling the zones when required. I tried to wire it up to the A2 port on a Heatmiser, but messed up and blew a fuse. Fuse replaced and all OK. ANy link to the Heatmiser were then removed.

BUT, ever since, when any actuator is turned on with a smart switch, the boiler comes On, turn Off, and the boiler turns Off.

I double checked this evening and while the link to A2 was still connected at one end, I disconnected it completely. And yes, the boiler is indeed turning On and Off when the actuators are Opened and Closed. Not only is the boiler on a different circuit than the 4-gang with the Smart Plugs, but I realized that the house has 3-Phase and I believe that the Smart Plugs are on a completely different phase.

The other bizarre thing is that we cannot seem to turn the Heatmiser On or Off. I don't know if the Heatmiser has lost all settings or something like that, but my friend tried to turn it on the way he would have previously, and it wouldn't do anything.

Thoughts ? Thanks in advance

10-10-20

Where did the actuators get fitted to, inputting to the SL on the boiler?

https://flameport.com/electric/central_heating/heating_wiring_S_plan.cs4

championc

The actuator valve fittings were already in place, and one of the three had a non-functioning actuator on top. So we got three new replacements.

They are all 2 port vavles with Danfos actuators. The setup is one zone for downstairs, one for upstairs, and a third for a loop through a cylinder - so S Plan

The house has an extension section with UFH which is where the Heatmiser was used, and it was the main Boiler On-Off and heated the rads since the three zones were constantly open. The UFH is unused and is turned off with Lever Valves. But obviously, the Heatmiser controller was still used to turn the boiler on or off.

The Heatmiser had a live loop from L to A1 (that was the only wire connected to A1), and a Black wire coming out of A2 which I believe / assume went to the Boiler, and before I started everything, did indeed get a 240v when turned on.

10-10-20

Crossing the phases wouldn't have been ideal at 380v between phases. What fuse popped, boiler circuit-board or on the boiler isolator? I'd disconnect SL at the boiler and try opening the cylinder valve manually then externally switching SL via a temporary wire, then see what behaviour you get.

championc

So to confirm, the actuators are 4 wire - L, N, Orange and Grey.

Only the L and N are connected