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Couple of questions about current home network setup

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  • 03-01-2024 4:07pm
    #1
    Subscribers Posts: 32,846 ✭✭✭✭


    I have a couple of questions relating to my current home network setup. I have a switch/patch panel setup in the attic where the router is, with points running through the house (new build in 2017), and generally works as expected. I currently have a SIRO gigabit connection.

    1. If I want more wired connections in a room than there are ports available, is it possible (or recommended might be a better question) to have an additional small switch to which I can connect a couple of extra devices into? I don't 'need' to do it, but I'm toying with the idea of something that this might help with. So essentially, cable out of one of the wall ports, into another small switch (say 5 ports), and a few devices connected by cable into that?
    2. One of the cables that I instructed the electrician who did the work to install runs to a control unit for an air to water heating system, to in theory allow us to control the heating unit via an app. However, this cable seems to be faulty in some way as it doesn't work. When I connect another cable directly to that port on the switch in the attic it works fine, so the fault seems to be in the cable itself or maybe in the way it is connected to the patch panel. Using this other cable isn't a solution though as it crosses through the hall into the attic, but it tests out that the unit itself is fine. I don't know enough or want to mess with the patch panel, which is why an electrician did it in the first place. My actual question here is whether something like this is easy enough for an electrician to be able to fix (run a new cable through the wall or whatever) or could it involve drilling new holes, etc? Cables and ports are all correctly labelled. It's not a big deal by any means as we have lived without it working for years, but no harm asking anyway.

    Any help appreciated.



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭wandererz


    1) Yes, you can connect a switch. Not a problem.

    2) It's possible that the cable wasn't crimped properly on one or either end or wires are crossed.

    A network cable tester will tell you the problem. If it's crossed wires it just needs to be recrimped. If it is a break in the cable midway then the cable will need to be replaced.

    One way would be to tie the new cable to the end of the old cable and start pulling - assuming there is enough space.

    https://amzn.eu/d/9sq0EWB



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭niallb


    Are you certain that the connection on the air water heating system was an ethernet port? It may look identical, but RJ45 can be used for other kinds of connections too.


    What's the make and model of the heating system controller and has it been working?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭niallb


    Are you certain that the connection on the air water heating system was an ethernet port? It may look identical, but RJ45 can be used for other kinds of connections too.


    What's the make and model of the heating system controller and has it been working?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭wandererz


    In point # 2, the OP says that it works when connected directly to the switch.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭niallb


    That's not relevant. That just demonstrates that the switch port works. It does not prove or disprove that the cable may have been wired for a different purpose.

    OP, don't worry about dragging another cable in with that one.

    Your issue is almost certain to be at the ends. Can you take close-up pictures of the ends of the cable that doesn't work?



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  • Subscribers Posts: 32,846 ✭✭✭✭5starpool


    Thanks all


    I'd be surprised if that's the issue as he used the same cable type to connect all the other ports around the house, but I took a couple of pics of the end that was meant to connect into the unit and I'll upload them in the next post. The back of the patch panel isn't easily accessible but if needs be I can take a look tomorrow. There are 20 or so cables patched in and this is in middle so it's well covered I think.

    It's a thermia atec heating system, and I can access the app when testing with the other cable, and the heating system itself is fine.

    I wouldn't feel confident pulling a new cable through, tbh.



  • Subscribers Posts: 32,846 ✭✭✭✭5starpool


    End of the cable, hopefully these are the pics you were looking for.



  • Subscribers Posts: 32,846 ✭✭✭✭5starpool


    Would that cable tester work when one end was in a patch panel? Looked like the video on that product that you need to plug both ends of the cable in.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Yes. Just need another short piece of cable that itself has been tested and plugged in.

    BTW, I wasn't suggesting that you replace or pull through the cable itself. Just suggesting how a cabler would do it without drilling more holes in your ceilings, walls etc. as per your question in (2) above in your original post.

    Chances are that one of the ends is crosswired or one or more wires isn't making contact.

    You can use a cable tester like that or just get a cabler in who has the tester and crimper. It will take 20mins but of course will cost you a call out charge etc.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,083 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    Your image indicate T-568B pinaout(standard for LAN), inspect and insure both ends are the same color layout. This does not guaranty that all pins made contact with wire(happens), either end.


    If you have laptop, disconnect end from heating system and plug into laptop(other end still in the switch):

    - if you get network and link is 1000mbps, cable/crimping OK and issue in the heating system controller/configuration. Those devices potentially come with default static IP - refer to manual, or that port is not for Ethernet - again, refer to manual.

    -if you dont get network on laptop - re-crimp the cable



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭wandererz




  • Subscribers Posts: 32,846 ✭✭✭✭5starpool


    Ya, I've tried the cable in a laptop before, doesn't work. Problem seems to definitely be in the cable, whether itself or in the way it's patched in. I might try to see if I can get a look at the back of the patch panel, but it's not easy given where it is.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭niallb


    The panel could well not be punched down properly. You'd need to remove it to get a punch down tool on to fix it.


    If you can get a phone or a camera in behind to take a picture of the end you may see if some are loose or just crossed over. A decent cable tester can give you some clues too. If you have two good pairs you can make up a pair of adapter tails to put those pairs on pins 1-2 and 3-6.

    Document it and stick it to the patch panel for the future, but it would remove the need for and messing with the cable in wall and the system is bound to work at 100Mb.

    Whereabouts are you? I'll happily make up adapters for you if the pictures show something like that is going on



  • Subscribers Posts: 32,846 ✭✭✭✭5starpool


    There is a picture of the cable going into the patch panel. Seems OK to me, but a picture can only tell so much I guess. It's port 12, obviously.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,083 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    One more possibility.

    Are your wall ports and patch panel numbered? and are you sure they not mixed up? What if it is and you patching the wrong port.

    As you have no "network tools", patch every un-patched port on the panel to the switch one-by-one and test connection to port at the heating system.

    To reduce run-around. If you have two Ethernet capable devices, set one with static IP(192.168.1.123) and connect at heating system port.

    Other by the patch panel where you will be swapping ports. On this device run continues ping ( ping 192.168.1.123 -t ) . Keep each port patched-up for few seconds

    Adjust IP to your network metrics



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