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Outdoor floodlights

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  • 27-12-2023 12:38am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭


    Hi guys I'm thinking of putting floodlights outside by house near the fascia and soffits. I forgot to leave wires in the attic pulled out to install lights at later stage. Rookie mistake.


    I have 4 to 5 electrical sockets in the attic, though, I'm wondering if I get an electrician out to my house, can he get power for the lights by connecting up to those sockets? Can it be done that way?


    Also I have no switch in place so I will have to either feed a wire down the conduit for the hallway lights coming from the attic and hope he can pull it out the wire through the conduct there and then install another switch next to the hallway light switch.


    Are there remote control light options that are reliable in case the switch isn't an option?



    I was thinking worst case scanerio would be to get electrician to make up the floodlights that could be plugged into the attic sockets and then have remote adapters that I could power them on using a wireless remote. Can that be done?


    TIA



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,084 ✭✭✭db


    Instead of trying to write up a switch I would get lights that have a pir to turn them on. If there is access to your switch box from the attic run a new wire from there to where you want the lights.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭Seadin


    I would like the option of Just switching on the lights without the PIR option. I'm not 100% sure if I can feed wires down to the fusebox from the attic? It be ideal if I could but not 100% sure about that. I would have to rip up boards in the attic and insulation just to check. Could I just get the wall chased for a switch and connect to power cable in the attic which would be connected then to the newly installed outside lights?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,229 ✭✭✭deandean


    If you have sockets in the attic, I suggest you get a remote-controlled socket, plug it into one of the attic sockets, then plug your supply for the lights into the remote controlled socket.



  • Registered Users Posts: 35,818 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    Quality solar floodlights way to go



  • Registered Users Posts: 28,949 ✭✭✭✭Wanderer78


    ive cheapy ould things up, great feckin lights, low light level, didnt want to be interrogated entering the house...



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  • Registered Users Posts: 234 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    Are they better than they used to be? Had ones before that were useless - even when new - and were beyond useless after 12 months!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭Seadin


    They are an option but to be honest I don't like the solar plates sticking out of them. I just want floodlights that are flush near the fascia/soffit of a 2 storey house.


    The remote socket option looks a good option for me I think.


    I have about 8 Floodlights to hook up. Two at the front of house. Two at the western side of the house, three at the back of the house and one at the eastern side. Can all floodlights be looped and hooked up to one plug or must multiple electrical cables be used?


    I was thinking of powering the front and western lights to one remote controlled plug and powering the rear lights to another remote control plug. Does that sound possible?


    If I had my thinking hat on 4 years ago I would have left cables in place when electrician was wiring house but I simply never thought of it to be honest.


    I would try and avoid chasing walls and putting holes in a ceiling to bring down a switch to the first floor level. Too much rooting and tearing up floorboards and chasing to even consider it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭Iodine1


    Any make / model / supplier you might recommend?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8 no_ismyfavoriteword


    Install your floodlights of choice and then wire them together, then run the cable feeding them to either a PIR sensor for motion or a photocell sensor (this will turn the lights on once it gets dark, and turn them off as it gets bright - a lot of them have timers too so you can set it for example to come on when dark for 4 hours then turn off until the next night), then wire the feed to that to a standard plug with a 3A or 5A max fuse, or you could install a switched fused spur for same.

    You can use the electricity feeding those sockets to power your lights, but the wiring for the sockets will be on a circuit breaker for 15 or 20 amps which is too high for lighting purposes. You need to use a fuse, either in a plug or in a switched fused spur, with either a 3 amp or 5 amp fuse.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭Seadin


    Few questions on my install. I have tested the remote sockets from downstairs and they work from the very bottom floor to the attic so this will save me installing a switch.


    I intend to put in now 12 robus bulkhead lights around the house. The house is very dark around it at night and want to light it up.


    4 lights will go to the front of house side of house 1 to the front west side, and 1 to the front east side of house. These 6 lights will operate on one remote socket with the proper fuse/spur in for lights.


    I intend to put 4 lights to the back of house and 2 to the rear east side of house. The house wall is stepped back and has room for 2 more lights here. There will be 6 lights in total operating off another remote socket with fuse/spur in place compatible for lights.


    The question I have is how will the electrician join the 6 lights together to work with the socket? Can he loop them together into a junction box and connect to the socket then?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3 Connorcc


    Interesting.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭Seadin




  • Registered Users Posts: 238 ✭✭AmpMan


    I have 4/5 flood lights out the back of mine.

    I can switch them from a switch but also have them on a smart controller (in my case a basic sonoff).

    With the sonoff I can add remote switches and do other things.

    for example I have a wireless zigbee switch in the garage so I can hit that on my way out and the lights will come on for 5mins.

    I have the same set up out the front and have them to programed to come on if I open the electric gate at night etc

    Very flexible and a easy diy project if you just plug them into the attic socket



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭Seadin


    Thats sounds like a good method with that smart controller and remote switches. Where did you pick up those items from?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭Seadin


    Can the following be done as a matter of interest? I will be getting an REC but I just want to see if this idea could work before going completely wireless.


    I have four attic sockets in four corners of the attic. So the plan is to Install the lights on the soffixs of house and bring in the cable through the wall plate towards one of those sockets or even two sockets. Then install a fused spur off one or two of those sockets and wire a three point plug off the outside lights that will be connected to the spured socket.


    Identify the attic socket wires then on the fuse board,( there is a tripper for attic sockets)and run a switch or two for this circuit off the fuse board nearby. This to turn on and off the outside lights.


    Could this work?


    I won't be doing anything myself but I would like to be able to instruct the REC a plan of action that is safe. I would prefer if I could go with a wired connection if possible without destroying the place or walls .The fuse board is in the plant room so no issue with bringing out wires from the fuse board.



    Thanks in advance.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,738 ✭✭✭meercat


    Don’t be messing about

    new circuit from distribution board to attic for lighting circuit


    you can switch this from plant room if required


    as you said already,you’ll need a rec for this.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭Seadin


    I would get the REC to do what you suggested only there be lot of rooting to be done and as it's a two storey house it's not straightforward of Just dropping a cable directly down from the attic to the fuse board. Its not possible without going through ceilings of two floors and then tearing insulation and floors up in the attic. Not looking for the easy way out but that's the issue I have doing it that way.



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