replacing/repairing regulator/valve for open gas fire

magicbastarder

my father asked me to look at this - it no longer works, and he was told the chances of getting a replacement are nil; anyone know if there are any places that could supply one? it's probably 20-25 years old.

the way it works is that you press the dial in and turn it 90 degrees counter clockwise - this opens the valve for the pilot and activates the spark mechanism; that works as expected. after maybe 10s with the pilot on, you turn the dial a further 90 degrees and it should open the main valve to feed the full flow into the fire - this is not operating, the valve remains closed.

quickly taking it apart - this is looking at the mechanism with the dial facing away from you - what i have circled in red is a pin which operates to open the valves presumably, and it's in the halfway position; but as you operate it in a way which should open the main valve, it does not seem to meet any resistance which you might expect were it operating against a mechanism?

chrisd2019

You need a Registered Gas Installer to replace it with a suitable working regulator.

Also if 25 years old the supply lines may need replacing for safety reasons.

magicbastarder

is it possible to even get that part, do you know, for a professional to replace it?

10-10-20

Hi. Is there no brand on the device? I had a gas fire which was one of those fancy Italian ones with an ultrasonic remote control and I was surprised that I could still find parts for it recently enough.

magicbastarder

there is - BM; made in denmark. not too many hits on google for BM 73303005 unfortunately.

my dad was told in one place that it was not possible to get one, that the whole fire 'assembly' would need replacing, hence the question.

10-10-20

BM Controls became DUNGS in 1989, if it helps.

https://www.dungs.com/en/company/history

magicbastarder

cheers - will pass that on to my dad.

carveone

FYI there are parts matching BM733 gas valve around. Seems like the same sort of thing. Doesn't seem cheap though.

shoegirl

If its a fixed gas fire definitely call an RGI for this job

Rabbie

Hi

For anyone's information on the BM733 valve, here is a spec sheet, and some info.

My valve stopped igniting and wouldn't stay lit, the easiest way to work on these units is to remove the whole grate, there is only one connection to undo, the main gas feed in.

Shut off the gas, remove the coals/logs and any base material, one bag for the coal, one bag for the base material, you are going to get dirty from the soot!!

Undo the input pipe, nice and slow, lift the whole grate with the valve out, take it outside, clean it, there will be a big build up of soot on the underside, take a couple of pictures of the valve for reference.

Disconnect the pilot feed, gas pipe, the thermocouple feed, electrical feed, and the outlet to the gas fire burner

Remove the valve from the bracket, my valve had the main inlet turned 90 deg to accommodate the feed in, 4 screws (special head, but a flathead screwdriver works, there is a spring inside, don't lose it, make sure its seated properly when you are replacing it - if you have to turn the port!)

Clean the valve, pipes, and the outlet to the the gas fire burner, there is usually a small orifice into the burner, make sure its clean and clear.

The thermocouple magnetic valve was an issue on mine, it was an OKLI 2311/29 This is the batch number it is a 15mm

https://www.gasproducts.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=orkli

The not igniting was caused by the spring not engaging with the ignitor, pushed it back into place and its working now

I live in Johannesburg, and was lucky to find a new BM733 valve, so replacement OKLI magnetic valve and I have a spare valve!

Assemble the pipes before you put the grate back, its way easier than rolling around on the lounge carpet.

Put the flared pipe into the valve, carefully put the nut into the threaded portion of the valve, turn it backwards until you feel the threads, turn the nut slowly clockwise into the threaded portion, using just the tips of your fingers, you may have to wiggle the pipe and nut to get the nut to screw in, DONT CROSS THREAD.. !!! take your time, screw the nut in with your fingers, only use the spanner when you are happy the nut is home. If you do this with all the pipework you wont have any problem.

If you want to test for leaks before you re fit the grate, a little compressed air in the main inlet, dishwashing liquid, and water mix, small brush, paint the joints, and pipe fittings with the mixture, bubbles = a leak - don't try and over tighten, check everything is seated properly.

We use the soap method to check for hydrogen leaks on the main turbine generator in a power plant, don't

want that going boom

The last pipe to fit is the main feed in, same as above take your time, make sure the nut turns in by hand.

If you are not sure, get a gas techie

Hope it helps someone

Rab

227052_BM_733_GB_Data_Sheet.pdf

Wearb

Just as a safety reminder, it's illegal and unsafe for anybody but a registered gas installer to work on gas appliances.

The Ging and I

It really needs a registered gas fitter particularly after 25 years.