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Adding additional double socket in a room.

  • 06-11-2023 12:22am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16



    Hi everyone.

    I am trying to add a 1 double socket in a bedroom and just want to ask the right way or be compliant to reg.

    1. Are new homes (2018 build) usually radial circuits? I have checked all related sockets on this area and seen one with only 1 set of T&E wire thus it is the end of the circuit and it doesn't feed back to the mcb? Or is there other way to check if its a ring or radial?
    2. if it is radial, is it fine to add a spur from an existing socket granted to use the same wiring size (eg. 2.5mm on 20A breaker)
    3. In terms of running the spur wire from an existing socket, which way is acceptable.
    • Horizontally - this is the easiest way as would only need 2.5m of wire and I can run it through the small gap between the stud and concrete wall (dont think its the external wall as looking from the attic its drywall - stud (2x2) - 1.5-2cm gap (where I plan to run the wire) - concrete - gap/insulation? - brick wall (external)). But my concern on this is it will run behind where the radiator of the room is mounted. will this be a concern even if the wire don't have a direct contact with the internal drywall as it is separated by the 2x2 stud?
    • Vertically - I can run the wire vertically from existing socket then across the attic then down to the new planned socket, but this will take around 7.5-8m of wire length also not sure if I would need to notch or make a hole in the top plate of the wall or if there is space I could slip the wire through.

    thanks



Best Answer

Answers

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,072 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Hi!

    I'd go for option 2 - the vertical approach as that's more common and you are less likely to have variation from the horizontal due to sagging.

    As for radials/ring - I think it's radials now, but one of the lads in the electrical forum might confirm based on the build-date.

    Don't forget that it's no longer "T&E" now, it must feature an insulated earth:




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 woodchuckchuck



    Hi, thanks for the response. Sorry don't know T&E is for uninsulated earth but yes I got all 3 cores insulated in the cable.

    Would the only issue for horizontal wiring just the sagging and not the potential heat from the rads? the gap behind is pretty snug for the 2.5mm to allow movements and there is a foam(not sure its a spray foam) between the stud and wall that would help the wire not to sag and can I add fasteners to prevent sagging as well?

    If I may share what the existing and planned may look like and if it would help to get clarification. The overall plan is to have a desk across to accommodate 2 person working from home but there is no socket on the right side (so there may be low likelihood that we will drill/nail around the bottom of the new desk. I have the worktop to have gaps/hopes for the radiator heat as well on the desk to not greatly impede the heat moving upwards. Thanks again.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,901 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    could just run a extension cord ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 woodchuckchuck


    This is another way but I may need to have 2 extension cord going through the existing double socket since it will be 2 of us going to work there (I work on my desktop and need an extension, then wifey needs an extension for her laptop, monitor and other chargers) and will most likely be more exposed to to the rads? Also it will look more nicer 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 woodchuckchuck



    Thanks again for the response and for the document. I wouldn't say the wall is insulated as everything between each studs are open, its just that there are foam (expandable?) on some space between the stud and the concrete wall and conveniently the wire could sit on those foam to prevent potential sagging. Anyway if the rad wouldn't affect the wire behind the walls, I would go with this route.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I would just go horizontally.

    All your existing wiring is already going through the same walls and the same insulation and going vertically involves more cable in more insulation.


    Is there an option to pull back flooring (carpet?) you might have enough slack to bring the ring main up into a new socket, or at worst can spur off under the floor.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 woodchuckchuck


    thanks for the response Greebo, I just did it horizontally as a spur as it is the easiest and if it is allowed. Im not confident on lifting up the flooring and I think it is a radial circuit since when i disconnect the live cables from the existing socket, all the remaining socket in the room goes off.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    How many sockets are already on the radial? You just need to ensure that the mcb is correctly sized for the cables involved so you are protected and also be aware that if you have potentially overloaded the circuit based on number of sockets and whats plugged into them, that you may get nuisance tripping.


    But it seems in your case you might just be effectively using the new socket instead of the old one?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 woodchuckchuck


    I'll double check how many sockets already in this radial circuit. It is on a 20A breaker so I supposed 2.5mm wire is okay and from the current usage of the room, the one floor socket is not used, I could close it permanently to compensate the new socket if needed.



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