Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

replacing shower enclosure problems

  • 23-08-2023 9:06am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13


    Hi

    I'm replacing a shower enclosure. All the advice is to seal/silocone the new enclosure wall from the outside. But the bottom corners won't seal with just outside sealant.

    One one side the tiles don't go all the way to the edge of the tub.

    On both sides there is a "bull-nose" piece of plastic along the bottom of between the tiles and the tub, the ends of this are open, and the bottom lib of the bullnose is just resting (pressing on the tub).

    I've attached some photos with labels to indicate the problem areas

    Thanks




    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Just from reading around on this, are you fitting a compensating profile to the wall? If so then this should be sealed against the wall all of the way down to the tray, completing those gaps in the photos. Then fit the door sections, sealing them from the outside as per the instructions.

    If you don't have a compensating profile then it's a different affair!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 kejxyz


    I was hoping to do a like-for-like replacement for the door section that was attached directly to the wall (see screw plugs). Not sure what a "compensating profile" is , but I will install one if it makes for a better seal (we've had lots of water problems with this shower).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    The compensating profile is the u-shaped channel which attaches to the wall so that it rides-out any uneveness on the wall and allows the door to hang plumb. Best work out if you have one and then go on from there.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,576 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    The original tiling job is the reason you had lots of water problems. To be honest for the sake of 6 or 7 square yards of tiles you'd be better off to whip off the tiles that are there and get it done properly.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,943 ✭✭✭CalamariFritti


    I just had a job done to deal with a similar problem and basically I dont think you can solve this by tinkering around with silicon etc.

    This needs to be jackoboarded/tanked up to and beyond the enclosure and newly tiled afterwards. Everything else is just short term and will invite problems. They may be slow burner problems but problems all the same and in the end you'll end up doing the bigger job anyway.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 kejxyz


    Love to have the time or money strip it all out and start again but not really an option.

    Maybe a crazy idea, but would it be an option to pull out the bottom row of tiles and retile those and put a strip of narrow tiles up along the left hand side?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Everything is an option but as it stands you have the most basic of sealing details - old style bath seal along the base which suggests nothing in the way of tanking or sealing behind the surface.

    Any new work and enclosure will still be entirely dependent on the tile grouting and bath seal containing all the water.

    Ideally you would start from scratch with shower seal and tanking system, re-tile then fit enclosure.

    Going with existing, you will have to just completely bed the new door into silicone at those problem areas and then you are hoping for the best. Most doors seem to come with the U shaped channel as a means of correcting uneven walls.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 kejxyz


    Scratching my head about the bath seal, I can't figure out how it can ever work in this application, how was it meant to seal against the enclosure. Was this just the wrong product for the job?

    The bottom edge of bath-seal is just resting on the tub, is this meant to be watertight?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,582 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    I had tiles decades ago and they stayed wet and started to lift and black mold in behind them.

    Full bathroom makeover and sealed floor and replaced tiles with sheets for showers bonded onto the walls.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,039 ✭✭✭Gusser09


    Is a shower pod an option for you? Would save a lot of messing. If oyu were getting water leaking from that a new shower enclosure or door won't solve it I'm afraid.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    The bathseal has a flexible bottom that provides a basic seal against the shower tray but not the right product however it was common a few years back.

    If you must keep what you have, it will have to be silicon sealing internally covering all those gaps etc.



Advertisement