What glue to use?

MrCostington

Hi,

On my front door windows the glass goes into a window guide rail / weather strip and I've got some new ones to replace the current ones. They fit into a steel U shaped channel and are glued in at the factory. I'm wondering what the best glue to use is, thinking Evo Stick contact adhesive, but perhaps there is a better choice?

Pics and a link to the supplier with perhaps better pics.

Thanks!

https://en.mbzclassicparts.com/products/w123-coupe-fensterlaufschiene-neu

kdevitt

I use Tec 7, or any equivalent, for anything like this - just need to tape or clamp the part in place while it cures.

MrCostington

Thanks. How long does it take to cure?

When you say "any equivalent" is Tec 7 a specific class of glue?

w124man

Tec 7 is a good adhesive for this type of application. Its waterproof as well

MrCostington

Thanks, is this the correct one?

How long does it take to cure?

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tec7-sealant-adhesive-white-310ml/315hk

kdevitt

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120780714#Comment_120780714

Yeah thats it - you can get it in different colours - black is probably the one you want. There are different brands who make the same stuff essentially. I'd normally give it 24 hours or so to fully cure. It sticks very well - but its messy if you get it on your hands or have excess on the parts, so you need to be a bit more careful with it.

Because its essentially a rubber sealant, it allows for some vibration in the parts you stick - so its ideal for various parts on a car - door cards, trims etc. I'd used all sorts of epoxy glues and the likes on my E36 doorcards without success, and this sorted them out perfectly.

MrCostington

Thanks, yes I'll get black, I just linked to the first one in the list.

I don't think I could leave the car disassembled for 24hrs, would it be ready to assemble in a shorter time, say 4hrs?

I assume, unlike contact adhesive, I will be able to move the parts around while fitting?

Sorry for all the questions!

kdevitt

Might be fine in 4 hours - depends on whether or not the parts are under heavy load or force. For my doorcards - they needed to be rock solid before I put them back on, so I gave them the full 24 hours. You can move the parts around a good bit alright while you get them into position if needs be.

JP 1800

Alternatively use Tiger seal, this is a polyurethane adhesive specifically for automotive use. It is a strong adhesive and waterproof

MrCostington

@kdevitt I don't think there is much force there, it just need to be held in position. When fitted, closing the window will force the glass against it to hold it. I'll try the glue on something similar off the car first!

@JP 1800 Thanks, I'll have a look at that too.

kdevitt

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120785631#Comment_120785631

In that case it'll work perfectly for you. The tiger seal mentioned is a very strong sealant - if there's a chance you might need to replace the part again in future I wouldn't use it as it can be almost impossible to separate once cured. Its widely used for bonding spoilers / side skirts etc on.

MrCostington

Thanks. Hopefully I won't need to but you never know. The part is a reproduction by a third party, but looks very well made.

I won't be fitting for a while as I'm waiting on a window regulator so will fit it when I have the door apart.

Wease3

Try pr 1776 sealant. As a low sag, thixotropic paste preventing flowing or dripping.

MrCostington

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120794247#Comment_120794247

Hi thanks for that. I googled it and it seems to be an aerospace product, I'm sure it's beyond what I'd be willing to pay for a glue, even if I could obtain it.

daithi7

I've a 1992 300SL and the foam sound damper 'cloth' needs to re adhered to the underside of the car bonnet.

The car parts shop sold me adhesive & advised me to reglue it and then hold it in place while drying with a piece of ply wedged in using a 2 x4 to hold it flush with the underside of the bonnet lid.

Anyone done this kind of job before, and any further tips much appreciated?

w124man

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120845903#Comment_120845903

I did this job on my 1999 320SL. If the sound pad is delaminating then no amount of glue will hold it together. I used a heat resistant glue in aerosol form and put a new sound deadening pad on. Three hour job!

MrCostington

Just to update you all, I got some black Tec7 and did the job last weekend, went well, so thanks all!

daithi7

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120846192#Comment_120846192

Thanks for that W124man,

Did you use something to hold the new sound damping pad in place while the glue was drying?

Also can you recall which specific heat resistant glue you used?

FYI, I've already bought a new sound damping pad for this 300SL, & I got a mechanic to fit it when I brought it in, when I was getting him to give the car a full 'once over'.

Unfortunately the adhesive he used is now failing only 1 year later, (he may have tried to put it on with the bonnet damp due to condensation or something) and so my damping pad is now half falling off when you pop the hood, and needs a proper refixing (maybe total) to the underside of the bonnet currently.

I'm keen to fix it right this time round as you can imagine....

Thanks for any further pointers.

w124man

I used this adhesive which I bought online. I used the fixings at the top (with the bonnet up) of the bonnet to hold in place but first I sprayed the adhesive along the top 6" of the mat and the bonnet. Once that was correctly aligned up and set, I then applied the adhesive to the rest and slowly pressed it all into place using a small roller I bought in Woodies

Wease3

hmmm