Side parapet on a gable roof has cracks

Tim_from_Trim

Any advice on the best way to tackle these cracks? I was thinking of cleaning with a wire brush and then mixing up a mortar mix and applying it into the cracks and over the parapet? Any advice is appreciated. This house is in the edge of Donegal - its hard to get tradespeople up here so thats why im thinking of doing it myself.

Tim

The Continental Op

Loads of questions on this one.....

Can you easily get access without risking life and limb? Looks like previous painter couldn't make it any further.

Is there even a problem?

Why not just cover it up? uPVC flashing over the top and down over the lead flashing.

Tim_from_Trim

Thanks for the reply. Yeah there is a small bit water getting into the house. I'm guessing its from here. Its going to be a major pain in the arse to access it. Its easier to access the roof from the other side but Im going to have to fabricate a roof ladder i'm thinking. No roofing company is going to touch it without scaffolding. Yeah PVC flashing might work. Good idea

The Continental Op

I think the uPVC is the way to go and it will be maintenance free and match in with the conservatory. Getting something the right size might be an issue. You may need to use just one flat sheet on the cracked face then a L shape over the top. I've also seen lead used.

If you can get a long single aluminium ladder section then you can bolt on a set of ladder hooks https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MDNGCVK/

Mr321

I'd clean out those cracks with a wire brush and pump them with tec 7 sealant.

Then your pvc/cladding flashing over it.

Take your time and be careful anyway.

Tim_from_Trim

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120770835#Comment_120770835

I think thats the way to go. Thank you both. Would you have any idea on where to get PVC flashing extrusions like that?

The Continental Op

You are going to need to get creative. Whats the perpendicular distance from the top of the conservatory to the roof. Unlikely you can do it in one piece. Start by looking at uPVC soffit to see if anything looks like it might fit.

The Ging and I

First set up scaffolding as if you dont feel safe you cannot do a good job.

Agree with cleaning out cracks and putting something in. Not sure what.

A continuous piece of lead flashing should do the job.

Calahonda52

National seals in Dublin do a very good quality "flash band" , you can ask for it to be cut to a particular width.

this is from and old invoice

ID198: IDL 314F 1.5 by 150 by 20m

It comes in a number of colours including white

Surface need to be clean and dry but its a lifetime job

the first layer would lap over the lead and up along in overlapping strips, staring at the bottom so as upper pieces over lap like slates

For access: Cherry picker?

if using roof ladder think about a safety harness connected to a rope over the top of the roof, you will need a mate to adjust ut.

I would not rely on the roof ladder to stay put if you slip unless you tie this down as described above

10-10-20

Cherry pickers can be got for good prices - somebody on here mentioned them recently. I'd much prefer that to any ladder/custom job to be frank.

I personally wouldn't Tec-7 the cracks, I'd use a specific crack filler for sure. Watch our chum Charlie below for some guidance, but I heard on here that Toupret's masonry filler is good stuff (they do a powered mix or a tube). A local builder's merchant would be best to advise.

I'd wonder if the cappings are coming loose as well or is the render coming away from where it was installed by the conservatory people? You might need to look at the caps from all angles using that very good drone. If there is an indication of looseness then it's a different issue and I'm not sure that I'd be putting flashband on them without getting them reset (and the whole job done professionally).

Many roofers have access to their own scaff.

Tell us what the construction of that parapet wall is. Is the wall below showing similar cracking? Was the wall opened horizontally and supported by a steel beam or is it a triangular opening? Can't tell from the photos.

While I think that installing flashing is going to alter the look of the house and you're likely going to have to apply the same finish to both parapets, are you thinking the same?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAYEkPgpUKk

Ronney

For access as a suggestion you might look at getting the sheet of glass nearest the gable removed and work from inside

Tim_from_Trim

Cheers for all the good advice. Ive added a few more photos. Im hoping I can figure out the cheery picker somehow. I got a quote for 180 per day which isn't bad at all. I enclosed the room under the roof and it doesn't look exactly well reinforced for someone that's over 200lbs so the cherry picker would be the way to go.

This is the boom lift Genie 45. (It wouldnt let me pose a link- sorry)

So it sounds like once I get up there -

1) check whether sections of the whole parapet wall are shaky or loose. (If they are well then thats a different story)

2) Use a grinder to deepen the cracks so mortar or crack filler has something to grab into. What about the many divets in the wall?

3) Apply crack filler or mortar to wall face. Can I ask - whats wrong with mixing sand & cement mix and applying about 1/4" thick on the wall? Would it not adhere to the existing wall very well?

4) Check the state of the flashing.

5) The parapet wall is in the shape of a V - i think it would be tricky to cover the whole wall with the U shaped PVC channel. If i can get the material with close dimensions - Im guessing you would cut it with a shears or fine saw and use construction adhesive to glue it in place?

Thank you for all the advice though!

The Continental Op

Get real good at manipulating the cherry picker before you start as you might just end up removing that glass without wanting to.

I went looking for a white sealer and came up with this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Waterproof-Coat-White-946ml/dp/B09V871S4B/

Roof ladders on the roof side and I would have thought you could lean over and paint the side in question. You can obviously get someway up as its been part painted in the past.

The Ging and I

I have a lot of cherry picker experience. They are great for a lot of things but not your roof. The bucket would place you above the work.

It would be worth your to get a professional scaffolding company in and explain what you want. They have some brilliant workarounds and might be able to rent you a harness or advice. Safety first !

Tim_from_Trim

Theres a load of access from both sides of the inverted V. But impossible to get to the top of the V. I hear your advice on the cherry picker. They can move about especially when fully extended! Honestly I think getting scaffolding setup would be a big job but obviously it would be the best way to go.

I got the dimensions of the shape of the parapet wall. It sounds like our local hardware has 300 mil PVC. Im asking if they can bend it also which would be great. Appreciate the advice.

Tim_from_Trim

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120778410#Comment_120778410

Thats a good solution. It would easy enough to apply that to the wall with a small roller on an extension. The cracks would still look shite though.

The Continental Op

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120778714#Comment_120778714

Is it worth getting a can just to try and see how it covers on a bit of concrete on the ground? If its what I think it is then it should cover the cracks but I suspect it will need several coats. Also worth some time in prep even if its only a quick run over with a wire brush. That paint is self levelling so will need to be brushed on thinly like paint or some of it will migrate down the wall before it dries

I'd only paint the gable end part not the top of the parapet. You don't want to seal moisture into that wall so leave the top exposed so it can dry out.

Mr321

I'd be also buying a sheet or to of plywood and putting it on top of that glass roof incase anything falls onto the glass.

10-10-20

Looking at some of those cracks now in the recent photos, I do wonder if sand/cement is needed for some of the bigger gaps as they do appear to be pretty deep and not superficial.

The problem with sand/cement is that it's not as easy to control the environment as it would be with a pre-prepared crack-filler. You'd need to clean out the opened gaps then prime them with SBR or maybe a wet cement paste, then backfill them with fairly stiff mortar (too wet and it will shrink) and then finish off the work with sponge-float. Thing is that you need to control the drying of the mortar, too quick and it weakens - especially in this heat and wind. A wet sack or heavy cloth would help in that respect, but also working in on a cooler day would too.

Tim_from_Trim

Just an update on this thread. Thank you again for the great advice. I was back in ireland for the month of july helping the sister with her house and it did me the power of good. The cherry picker was the way to go. I had it all done in two days. I filled in the deep cracks with a fast setting mortar mix. I painted the whole (i found its called a BARGE) with the white gorilla epoxy (make sure the wall is dry) and this seemed to do the job. Thanks again...Tim

10-10-20

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120937576#Comment_120937576

Well done! Thanks for the update!