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Draughty downlighters, need to change, what if any options?

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  • 27-02-2023 11:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,326 ✭✭✭


    I bought LED bulbs to change the ones in the downlighters in hall and couldn't believe the draught that is coming in through them! I blamed that draught on coming down the stairs from somewhere but it's not! Anyway these are in a hall ceiling with rooms above so not accessible from above.

    I have been doing a bit of research as best I can and apparently there is an integrated LED downlighter which I presume means it's a sealed unit so no draught? Is that correct and if so any recommendations for what type/brand. Have someone qualified to fit them if I supply them.



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 4,105 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    light fitting does not eradicate the draft source, does it...



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,326 ✭✭✭phormium


    Well no but it stops the air coming out through the hole if the unit is sealed, or that's the way I'm thinking they would work anyway, no air getting out the gap then no draught. The air is currently coming in through the back of the fitting which has gaps for ventilation. There is no real way of stopping the air as presume it's coming in under the eaves and getting into floor space between downstairs and upper dormer floor.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,105 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    As you wish, still - pretending that you "don't know" about issue does not resolve it. You cant call it desired ventilation as you have no control over it, your ceiling/floor are point of lose of valuable energy.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,326 ✭✭✭phormium


    Of for goodness sake I'm not 'pretending' I 'don't know' anything, if you haven't something useful to say then say nothing! Treat it like an exam question and answer the question asked!

    They are old downlighters at this stage and I have no idea what is in that void between floors and I'm not going ripping up the floors upstairs to get at any of these lights or any air entry points there may be, I need to do the best mitigation job I can with what I have. Yes I'm losing valuable energy which is exactly why I am trying to basically seal up the hole as much as possible.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,947 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Hi!

    The integrated units are a huge step forward. I swapped my draughty downlighters out for IP66 rated (shower) types and it did make a difference, especially in my landing where the cold attic was above. I was also able to install fire-rated covers and wrap the insulation around/above them, but as you said - they aren't an option for you in the hall.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    I thought there was a rating or a standard for air tightness but can't find anything now on it

    As above anyway the IP65 or integrated ones will be better than the basic fitting that is just a hole in the ceiling with a bulb

    Think that's where I'm misremembering, was probably " insulation coverable" I was thinking of


    Post edited by kirk. on


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,860 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    You have 2 options.

    1) swap out them for integrated units ensuring the seals are installed as best as humanly possible.

    2) You can purchase Downlighter heat covers, these are sealed over the unit from the other side (presume attic..?) for some of them. These also require additional sealing silicone to hold them in place and provide the air tighteness.


    Finally as pointed to above. If you have air coming through them in the hall. You have bigger problems and changing the lights wont modify that. You need to start examing where its coming from and solve for that.

    areas of normal source are

    1 - poorly fitted vents with no through piping from either side of the wall allowing air in between wall ope and plasterboard.

    2 - poorly fitted doors and windows again same as above

    3 - porches with poorly constructed attachment to the building envelope, allowing airflow in and normally zero insulation in the space (Depending on age or cowboyness of the builder)



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,326 ✭✭✭phormium


    Regarding the air source points:-

    I would say the air is getting in under the eaves where the insulation does not go fully to edges which is fine for ventilation but when the attic was converted to dormer then I imagine it would have been a plan to seal in some way the gaps at either side between floor timbers so that the wind is not just blowing in from side to side under the floor. That said it doesn't cause any other problem other than the downlighters. I tiled one of the upstairs floors last year with vinyl tiles and while on my hands and knees you could feel a bit of cold air coming in under the skirting board so I sealed all that room when I was doing it. Could possibly go back and do the other two rooms same way but I have checked and there is no real draught coming in them at skirting level.

    The windows are velux and no air coming in around them when closed.

    No porch, builder was excellent for original house, however attic was converted later and as house is over 30 yrs old there may not have been as much emphasis on insulation as there would be now. I have redone the back of the house in the small attic void that is there now with extra insulation last year, intend doing the front shortly so can pay particular emphasis to the gaps going in under the floor of upstairs.

    It's not a huge issue but I figured I may as well eliminate those draughts if possible, I don't have heating bills any higher than normal and zero issues with mould or condensation anywhere in the house, it's an ill wind and all that! 😀



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,105 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    look, no intention to salt your wounds, no intention to sound rude.

    Sealed units, as mentioned above, might prevent wind blow direct as well as mastic all skirting will help - you answered this part of exam yourself. The rest you already know and seam don't want to discuss, not with me anyway, so...

    best regards



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