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PC Engine Interface Unit - RGB Mod
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16-12-2022 11:38am#1
Inspired by RMC's PC Engine Trash to Treasure series, and following on from my previous PC Engine repair thread, I finally got my hands on the OtakuStore RGB mod kit for which is compatible with the Interface Unit. The mod itself is really straight forward, with the only awkward part being closing up the Interface Unit with the additional cables/connector installed. For me, it took two attempts because I just didn't plan the wiring out with enough care the first time, and I lost a chunk of time trying to put the cover back on. In the end I relented and went to bed, defeated! I came back the next morning though, de-soldered everything and started again with the knowledge I'd gained before. Second time around was much smoother, and it all went back together like a dream!
Sorry for the poor/yellowing lighting, I still haven't gotten around to buying a decent LED desk lamp!
^^ The Interface Unit itself, also known as 'the briefcase'
^^ In its standard form, it has basic composite out, stereo out, and DC-in all in one panel on the right hand side.
^^ The innards laid bare, for all to see, and ready for upgrading.
^^ The RGB amp, and DIN connector. These come as a kit, together with a different DIN connector for modding the base console, and an included RGB scart cable too. The amp itself is very simple, you just feed it RGB in, power, and ground, and it spits RGB out the other side all nicely amplified and sharp.
^^ These I bought separately, a 2mm DC barrel jack, and some two-core shielded audio cable. The cable is something I read about others using, because seemingly without it, there's a definite audio buzz/hum on brighter images which is apparent. Seemingly these shielded audio cables screen the audio signal from picking up any interference from the RGB signals which are nearby.
@Steve X2 to the rescue once again, with a lovely 3D printed replacement panel. Normally this mod advertises itself as a destructive/cutting mod, by requiring you to keep the original composite output in place (thereby retaining the original DC input jack which is why the kit doesn't come with one), and asking you to drill a hole on the opposite side for the new RGB output. Anyone who's been reading these logs for the past year knows now I'm very much anti-cut these days, wherever absolutely possible. So Steve was able to print a replacement panel for me, allowing me to keep the case perfectly in tact (thereby this mod is also fully reversible now too), with two holes, one for the RGB output, and one for the new DC barrel jack.
Unfortunately, the print file I sent Steve was for a smaller DIN connector, meaning I had to bore this one out a bit more in order to fit the DIN connector from the kit. But after a few mins, all was well and the connector was able to fit nicely.
^^ R, G, B and Sync cables connected to the pins of the connector.
DON'T follow the wiring direction of any of these pics if you're doing this mod, these pics are from my first failed attempt. The wires need to be routed towards the top of the board instead, as there's so many screw holes and posts that get in the way otherwise, and you risk pinching a cable. Also my Sync cable is on the wrong pin here which caused some head scratching down the line (audio coming through but no image obviously), it should be x1 pin to the right, just beside the pin for blue.
^^ 5v and ground connected here, and again, don't follow this wiring direction, route the cables up on top of the PCB instead. Once again, an error here, the ground point is wrong in the picture, it should be one pin to the left (I seen this error after taking the pic.) My head just wasn't in it on Day 1!
^^ Left and Right audio connected, with the cable shielding twisted and grounded on the pcb. The cable is quite thick and not hugely flexible, so important consideration is needed with where you route it, and how long it should be.
^^ That's everything soldered up and connected. This was from the first attempt, so it didn't go back together in any acceptable way. I ended up de-soldering everything, and re-doing it all. I brought all the cables up on top of the pcb as quickly as possible, I shortened the length of the audio cable, and left that routed underneath as it doesn't bend very well, and I fit the amp on the far side of midway on the pcb, away from the eject lever, and away from the DIN connector (space is a premium there.) I've no pics of it because I had to really focus on doing it properly, and I forgot to take some snaps!
^^ All back together, no cutting needed, and with now native RGB out. Merry Christmas, and an RGB New Year!
^^ These are the BEFORE shots, in native composite output.
^^ The obvious AFTER shots here, in full RGB glory. There's some cross hatching/interference on some screens, particularly in the black sections...but I'm pretty sure that's either the included scart cable, or possible the usual poor scaling this flat panel TV is doing for 240p stuff. The image itself is much more vibrant and vivid, with hugely better colour separation, and is much sharper too.
In testing, I noticed my CD-Rom2 unit wasn't spinning discs until I left it powered on for a few minutes. Classic sign of failing capacitors, so I'll get to that in the new year and make a thread for it too, and that should wrap up my adventures in PC-Engine hardware!
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