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Immersion switch to timer

  • 11-12-2022 03:12PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26


    Hi all,

    I want to change our immersion switch to a Immermat manual click timer. I’ve changed a lot of sockets, etc but not confused on wiring.

    pics attached but background first;

    • Single element (no sink/bath)
    • Already have the immermat unit
    • want to run for 2 hrs at night on night rates instead of high oil cost
    • Stone broke so can’t afford a sparky, septic tank pump just bust so emergency fund is gone (sigh)

    Question is, with wiring;

    • The existing switch has 2 connections for earth (in&out) but the timer has no earth.
    • Where do I put the earths?

    On the timer;

    • Black wire from immersion goes to ‘4’
    • L/N in/out make sense if I combine the neutrals, that way (incl. black) all 4 ports are used.
    • where the heck do the earth go though!

    Any help is much appreciated!


    7708FA52-9A29-4D09-8C1B-034005A37A4F.jpeg 003D758E-5220-439E-AFCC-2CB05EFE5883.jpeg 296A8B15-7F5F-44F7-ADDC-E47DBB2508D4.jpeg


    Tagged:


Comments

  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Join the earths with a connection block. Then blue goes to N in, Brown to L in. Other brown goes to L out & black to N out. This is assuming the black is neutral going to the immersion. If I was there I wouldn't assume anything. I would double check everything first



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Only issue with swopping it is You're taking.out the double pole isolation



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,652 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Yeah, you need to retain the isolator. You have a serious isolation issue otherwise. Wiring should go:

    mains -> timer -> double-pole isolator -> element.

    That way the timer remains running when the element is switched off at the isolator. Earth must pass though and be functional!!

    Get another plastic back-box and wire it like above, but you also need to ensure that the physical cables between the isolator and timer are the same diameter of copper wire as the rest of the circuit. Brown and blue are ok.

    Yep, double-check and be 100% confident - this is the interface between water & electricity and exposed copper wiring after all.



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