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How do I replace the washer in this tap?

  • 08-11-2022 2:34pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,423 ✭✭✭✭


    Do I remove the tap via the allen key and take it from there? The part between the tap and the centre is perfect round and smooth and there doesn't seem to be any way to loosen that with a wrench.




Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,070 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Not totally sure, but I'd remove the grub-screw holding the handles on and whip them off. Then try a soft-grip wrench or a towel to protect the finish while trying to remove those rounded heads.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,476 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    You might be able to change a washer but in my experience with mixer taps you often have to replace the whole tap unit.

    But a quick look on youtube found this - you might be in luck


    But I suspect you will need to get into the mechanism as 10-10-20 suggests by starting with those grub screws.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,423 ✭✭✭✭josip


    Thanks Continental Op, that video was exactly what I needed. For anyone else who might find this useful. I eventually found my allen keys in the shed and luckily enough the smallest fitted the grub screw and it wasn't overly tight.

    After taking off the tap I tried removing the rounded head but it didn't budge. I didn't have a soft grip, but I did have a vice grip and nothing to lose. I put a towel between the grips and the rounded head but there wasn't enough grip and it kept slipping. So then I wrapped the head with a few loops of insulating tape and went again and I got the head off. I took out the valve but the 2 rubbers on it looked fine. I noticed there was a gap where 2 parts met,

    so I thought/hoped that might be the problem and took out the cotter pin to take the valve apart.

    I gave it a clean with a toothbrush and there seemed to be some sort of rust inside the valve casing at the very end, so I gave that a good scrape with a small flat head screw driver.

    Put the valve back together and the gap was now much smaller.

    Reassembled the tap and it's perfect. Minimal twist needed to have it drip free. Thanks again Continental.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,476 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Glad you got it sorted. Thats a fairly old tap. I was expecting to see a different valve more like the one in the video. Having gone to those lengths to dismantle the valve you'd normally replace the rubber washer on the end.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,070 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Yes, glad it's fixed, but I find that if the valve went once, it will go again as the tolerances are typically shot.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,423 ✭✭✭✭josip


    Agree. Given the corrosion levels on some parts of the tap I felt like I've bought some time, but that it will need replacing sooner rather than later.



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