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Missing Ridge tile - Temporary fix with Sealant or tape?

  • 02-11-2022 6:44pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭


    Currently I have a missing ridge tile which is causing a leak into the attic. The cement is still on the ridge but a little cracked in places which is where the water is coming in. Is anybody aware of any good sealant or tape that I could put over ridge that might seal it, temporarily or long term. Finding a replacement ridge tile could prove difficult as the roof is very old.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,597 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    have you a pic



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭broken sink




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Something like this should be fine for a temporary fix, though depending on the cement you might be better off with a paste type approach like




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭broken sink


    Thanks for the replies. Finally got around to uploading some pics. Spoke to a guy yesterday who recommended Tec7 but he did not see the photos I have attached here so I welcome other opinions.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,232 ✭✭✭waterwelly


    I'd be thinking get a bit of metal ridge cladding that you'd normally see on a shed. Much longer fix and inexpensive.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,749 ✭✭✭Deagol


    Those are slates not tiles. And they might be old but they look like artificial slate? Why not just go to local builders merchants and buy a couple of replacement slates (about 20€each) and fit them? You have access to the roof from the photos... will take an hour.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    unless the roof has some crazy pitch it should be easy to find a replacement to be honest



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭broken sink



    Yes,I should have said ridge slate instead of tile. The slate is old, and I don't have confidence about getting the correct size and then fitting it, but I acknowledge that a replacement slate would be the best solution.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    While you wait to find the matching slate I would use a combination of the two products I mentioned, the "gunk" will seal any of the cracks in the concrete and the tape will give a more general protection from the rain.

    I'd probably use 3 layers of tape, one on each side just shy of the middle and then a final layer over the top.

    Note that the roof needs to be pretty dry for this stuff to stick to it effectively.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,479 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Because I have it on hand I'd put a length of lead sheet (off a roll) over that shape it. Maybe use some mastic/silicon to hold it in place. The one thing I'd be careful of is putting anything on the roof that may prove difficult to remove later when you find some replacement tiles. I've also got some bitumastic flash banding that would also do the job but I'd be hesitant to use that as while it would make a good seal it would be a pig to remove later.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭broken sink


    This is an option I might go with, the reason being is that it would be easier for me to do, and I may have use for the materials afterwards as we have a flat roof with torch on felt that might give trouble in the future.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭broken sink


    I would consider bitumastic flash banding before the lead as I would have no use for the remainder of the lead after using. Do you happen to know who makes the flash banding ? It may be a good long-term solution if it is so difficult to remove.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,479 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Some builders merchants will let you buy lead off the roll. You can get a roll of 300mm wide flash banding from most builders merchants.

    The product that Greebo recommended is probably very similar to traditional flash banding. There are newer products that have different backings and adhesives. If you are not bothered about getting it off again you want whatever one will stick the best.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭broken sink


    If I could buy a 300mm 1 meter length of flash banding it would be great, but I assume they don't sell it like that. If I had lead, how would it be stuck on?

    After all the replies I have a few options now and hopefully I will dry the leak this week.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,220 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    If you'd had started looking for ridge tiles rather than elaborate bodges you'd have it fixed by now. 😀



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,479 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Flash banding is cheap enough to buy a roll probably about €30. It sticks on its own you just peel the backing of and get ready to get stuck to it ;-) It is very sticky! However I always paint the surface I'm sticking the flash banding to with flash banding primer, its black tar type paint that makes the the flash banding stick better. Work out what width you need I suspect you want the full 12 inches but its also available in 9 inch and narrower widths.

    Re lead: There are loads of different sealants I'd just pick up whatever the local builders merchants have. While I might just use a general purpose silicon sealant I'd probably get one specifically designed for lead. A quick google showed that almost every sealant manufacturer makes one, an example https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/Products/Lead-mastic-sealants/EVE1370 . You'll also need a cheap mastic gun to apply it but don't go too cheap as I've seen some shockingly bad cheap ones.

    As above getting a couple of ridge tiles would be a far better and much longer term option.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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